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| Ruins at Shadscale Mesa |
1. COTTONWOOD WASH ROAD - this forms the east boundary of the wilderness. The best way in is the Smith Camp Rd that leaves highway 191 south of Seleratus BM. It's a graded road to point 4418 where another graded road goes north to the Cottonwood road and a car might make it the whole way. The Cottonwood road is easy 4wd because of sand and chalk dust. Going south is a dead end and going north leads to the graded Green River Cut Off Rd. Posted 2025
2. COTTONWOOD WASH NORTH RIM - I was able to get to Horse Heaven walking the rim and some forks thru point 6184 then came back on the next rim to the north. There is a parking area at the mouth for the rock art hikers. I just went up the rim to the first fork cutting thru. I went down there but hit a drop at the bottom. I came back up and looked at a route at N39 05179, W110 27514 that would work if I had a gator hook and 20 feet of line. There is one more just past that that might go but I stayed on the rim past point 5318 to 05839, 28221 then dropped down at some potholes with water. I walked that fork along the north side of point 5715 to a narrows blocked by falls just before the 5600 line. I came back to a gap east of point 5715 and went thru to the next fork then up that a short way to a minor class 3 fall, the hardest thing on this hike. I went up OK but easier for two and likely bypassable anyway. I kept going up the easy canyon to 05731, 29043 where a sheep route goes up the rim. I went on up to a neck at 05737, 29287 and on up the rim past peak 6015 then just past point 6184 there is a saddle where I thought I was toast. But straight across the saddle is a class 2 crack where sheep go up. Then all I had to do was skirt around the head of the forks then down the rim to past point 6015 and down to a rim at 06186, 29163 el 5850. I walked the rim down to a drainage at 05935, 27992 which comes back to the rim at some potholes with water. I needed that so I filled up. I kept going down toward point 4925 and hit a trail there at 05460, 26516 that took me down a canyon and to the road with a short walk back to the start. That took me 9 hours, 15 miles with nearly 2000 gain. Rarely steep. This could be shortened a lot by heading directly up to point 5318 on the rim and also skipping the side trip to the narrows. Posted 2025
3. COTTONWOOD WASH SOUTH RIM - there are ways up the rim and over to the rim of Spring Canyon. One way is to start at the mouth and go up a trail at N39 04758, W110 26018. It goes along the left side of a drainage and finally fades then it's easy on up the ridges. The second way is to go up Cottonwood to a class 3 route at 04694, 27037. It goes up to the left to the next level then it's easy to 04565, 27234 then it's a straight shot up the drainage to the rim. I then walked up the rim to 04151, 27483 to get down a cliff and on down to Nates Canyon. Going up canyon are cottonwoods and potholes, some had water. I came to a minor fall and past that it's easy to go to the rim of Spring Canyon. Someone glued a dirt bike ornament on the rim at 03525, 28578 just east of point 5950. I then went NE down a fork that leads to the big drop in Nates. At a minor drop I went left to 03879, 27613 to get down then on to the drop. There I went north up a drainage that shows green on the topo reading 03949, 27284. I walked that a third mile to a large cairn and exited there and leveled off then made a hard right to 04339, 26910 to get on the descent ridge. I had a deep canyon on my left and just followed it down to the start. 5 hours, 8 miles with 1600 gain.
4. POINT 5948 is on the rim east of the Lower Black Box. The road down Tidwell Draw is easy 4wd. I parked and walked to a saddle south of point 4290 at N38 58112, W110 23703 then on up a ridge at 58146, 23962. I dropped off the rim at 58221, 24609 el 4800 and down into a canyon on the right. It has another little rim and the last spot to drop down it is at 58251, 24835 then it's a short walk to the main rim of the river. The rim is lined with domes so I went right around them into a drainage at 58248, 24820 then up that to 58525, 25072 and then to 58678, 25366 where I dropped into another drainage. I went on to 58804, 25583 then to smooth rock at 58949, 25759. There I just followed the forks that lead to the rim north of peak 6001. Along the way are potholes with 2 feet of water that day at 59177, 26241. At the rim I just walked it to 58938, 27190 and crossed a drainage to get to the summit. No sign of humanity there. 6 hours, 10 miles with 2200 gain. 200 of that is on the return. I put a track on peakbagger under peak 6001. Posted 2025.
5. SMITH CAMP LOOP - a trail goes to the rim from the camp then it's easy to loop north back. The camp is at the 4-way at BM 4548 on the Cottonwood Wash Rd. First I stashed a bike 1.2 miles north at a fork near BM 4606 on the Cottonwood road then came back to the 4-way and turned west to the camp. A trail goes up canyon on the left bank and will bend south. I got off there to smooth rock at N39 01634, W110 24787 then up to a trail at 01618, 25002. It goes on to 01608, 25659 then in another fifth mile it bends left to the rim. I could see that I could walk the rim south to a point at the 5600 line. But I walked north on the rim until domes got in the way. But there are obvious passages to the right of the domes. I went on to 02214, 26300 and turned right down a canyon. At a drop, I cut over the left bank to 02484, 25928 and dropped down. At the next drop I bypassed on the left then up a ramp at 02734, 25702 to get on the rim. I went on to 02801, 25573 then walked down the rim staying with the canyon on my right. Nearly 4 hours with 1000 easy gain. Cars might make it to the camp from the south or at least get close enough to ebike it. SOUTH LOOP - I returned later and took the same route to the rim but then went south to the point at the 5600 line, north of point 5370. Then I went to a rim at 01114, 25788 and then to 01083, 25452. At 01036, 25212 I went south across a wash then down to the starting trail at 01108, 24660. It took me north back to the start. 3 hours, 1200 gain, all easy. Posted 2025
6. PEAK 5035 is east of Cottonwood Wash. The colorful east canyons are the main attraction. I took the graded road along Cottonwood Wash and turned north on the road going past Trail Spring. I had 3 miles of easy 4wd and ebikeable to a fence. I parked there and walked to a canyon at N34 04022, W110 20637. I went up that to a fork at 04378, 21371 and then up the ridge between the forks to point 4730 and on to the summit. There are ways to drop south off the summit, the easiest being by way of the east saddle and then down canyon and past a fence at the mouth. I left the wash and thru a saddle on the left at 03579, 20734 and headed back. 2 and a half hours with 400 noticeable gain. Posted 2025
7. JOE HOLE WASH is SE of Cedar Mountain running parallel to the main road. A one way hike is too easy to pass up. I parked at a crook in the road east of BM 5473 then rode 3 miles west to the road turning south to Lews Hole. That's a minor drop with a pothole. A trail goes along the right rim for a tenth mile then drops down at a fence. I strolled on down canyon and then for the last third mile turned north up a draw to get to my truck. 100 minutes, 4 and a half miles. Cattle impact is light. Posted 2025
8. UPPER COTTONWOOD WASH - a sheep trail goes out of Big Hole Wash and over into the main fork of Cottonwood. The Big Flat Rd turns to 4wd at peak 6215 and then shortly comes a fork. Go left for 2/3 mile to a big fall. A mtn bike would work on that road. Walk to the trail at N39 05959, W110 31704. It goes up onto a point then go another tenth mile up the point then left up a draw to a rim then to 05944, 31437. Drop down there then thru a gap to 05923, 31248 where it's easy to drop into Cottonwood. At the 6040 line there is a drop, the first of many. I just walked level to the right and dropped to a flat and walked a sheep trail at that level to a 1933 marker at 05744, 30732 el 6000. I went on a bit more to a point then turned back. I spent less than 3 hours. Easy hike. It looks likely that the hike could be extended to Moonshine Waterhole for a loop. Posted 2025
9. MOONSHINE WATERHOLE - it's a one hour hike to that but I kept going down the rim then back on the rim of Nates Canyon. I parked at the end of the jeep road in Box Flat and walked the easy ground around to Moonshine then walked the north rim down to N39 04667, W110 28938 on the south side of peak 5995 where I could walk down to the creekbed. I went down to the big drop passing cottonwoods and more waterholes, one as big as Moonshine. Then I came back and up a ridge at 04626, 28627 to get on the rim of Nates. I walked on up along the south side of Nates BM. A slope there at 04138, 31510 goes up and around to the north side of the summit block where I chickened out on a crumbly class 3 step about 8 feet high. It's best to have 2 people and a hand line. I walked on around the peak back to the start on a hiker trail. 6 hours, 20 minutes, and 10.7 miles with 1800 gain. Rarely steep. I put a track on peakbagger. There appears to be a stock trail to Moonshine that starts near the end of the road and goes thru Jackass Flat but no cattle for decades. Posted 2025
10. UPPER SPRING CANYON - for this I started at the end of the road in Box Flat and walked past Nates BM to a gully SE of peak 6702 at N39 03717, W110 31541. I went down that to bottom and walked downstream to the big drop with many deep potholes along the way and cottonwoods. At the drop, I went left on the rim a few feet then up to smooth rock at 03333, 29959 el 6000. I walked upstream along the 6000 line for a tenth mile then up a drainage to the rim then walked it back. 5 hours and 1500 gain. The only steep gain is the 400 at the exit gully. Nothing harder than class 2. Posted 2025
11. HORSE HEAVEN JEEP ROAD - this starts on the Cottonwood Wash Rd just north of BM 5073. It goes up to el 6200 on the rim of the north fork of Cottonwood Wash and soon ends. No tricky spots on the road. Posted 2025
12. THE SKYWALK is what I call the skinniest of ridges on the south rim of Pine Canyon north of peak 6630. The 4wd road in from the Box Flat Rd starts at Dry Pond and goes west for nearly 5 miles to a rock art site at peak 6632. There's only one main road to follow and it circles west of peak 6522. Just before the end there is a gully at N39 06022, W110 37992 where I went up and on to 05607, 38017 to get up to the last level then on to the ridge. I walked it out and back then on to the ridge running NW from peak 6645. I could see the canyon on the north side of it was passable so I dropped in at 05925, 38170 and on down to a drop. There I stayed on the right bank around a corner then walked a rim to 06702, 38555 where I could walk up along the west side of peak 6495 to get on the high rim then out to point 6485. I went back around the north side of peak 6495 to get back to Prickly Pear Flat then headed down a canyon at 06295, 37812 to get back to the start. 6 hours and 10.3 miles. Rarely steep. This is one of the great rim hikes of all time. No sign of humanity on those rims but for one cairn. I could see that point 6540 is hopeless. There are ponderosa pines in the bottoms west of peak 6765. Posted 2025
13. GRADE BENCHMARK el 5510 has an easy east slope. Turn off highway 191 at about mp 289.9 and go in on easy 4wd and stay left at main forks to get to the road going up Lost Spring Wash. That leads to the east slope then just pick a route up. I went up at N39 06874, W110 23863 then from the summit I went north across a drainage then down the rim of it to 07143, 24703 where I could get thru a cliff then weaved on down to the road. 2 hours, 800 gain, all easy and very pleasant terrain in a juniper forest. I wouldn't reverse this loop as the downhill leg is softer and steeper. I put a track on peakbagger. Posted 2025
14. SHADSCALE MESA is along the river just south of I-70. It's a short hike to the high point but a traverse is a lot more interesting. There is a low budget interchange on I-70 at mp 147. There is an underpass and gates on both sides of the highway. A half mile south on a crude dirt road there is a sign to lock a bike to. Then drive to mp 156.4 on highway 24 and turn and park at N38 52287, W110 23158 where a steep road goes up the mesa. Walk the road up then walk the rim to a canyon at 52928, 25123 and go up and over the high point. Then keep going on the rim to 54736, 4977 where a sheep trail goes down to a saddle and follows an ancient road down to the flats where the sign is. It took me an hour to pedal my bike around to the south side where the hike starts and there is a paved shoulder the whole way. The hike takes 3 or 4 hours, easy. I put a track on peakbagger. LITTLE SHADSCALE is what I call the small mesa to the south. I parked at a sand slide at the south end next to the pavement. Then I walked north on the road for a quarter mile then west up a valley to a canyon at 51541, 23745. I went up that to the top then north to the block that looks to be the high point. I went left around it and saw a possible route up but would have some tricky walking above a cliff. So I put it off until I can bring a friend and let them go first. I walked the mesa to the south end at 51261, 22910 and down the slide to the start. 2 and a half hours, easy. No cattle. Posted 2025
15. BENTONITE HILLS - the best hike in bentonite I ever took is in the area south of I-70 and east of highway 24. Turn off 24 at mp 155.9 and go straight thru a 4-way then stay left at main forks to a wash at N38 50989, W110 19764. Go 3/4 mile up that then walk the main wash to 51027, 18831 where it bends right then on to a washed out road at 50956, 18464. That goes up to the rim then go east over mesa 4606 then down to a lower rim and drop off it at 51201, 17058 and down to the flats. Go on to 50812, 17248 then thru a gap at 50364, 18442 then walk most directly back to the start. 3 or 4 hours, easy. All roads easy 4wd. Ebikes make all but the last 3/4 mile of the 4 miles of dirt roads. Posted 2025
