Thursday, July 23, 2015

Schell Creek Range

Burnt Peak

Kalamazoo Peak

  • CLEVE PEAK el 11768 is what I  call South Schell Peak's higher neighbor to the SE. The trail in the Cleve Creek north fork provides access.  It's the best hike in the range. Take SR 893 north from US 50 for a dozen miles and turn at the sign for the Cleve Creek Campground. Go thru the campground then keep going on easy 4wd for 5 miles up the main canyon to a sunny TH reading N39 15446, W114 36403 el 7400. Stay right at forks along the way. Mtn bikes would work but there are 3 shin deep fords. Hike the trail over into the north fork to a sheep camp. Go up the left bank nearly a fifth mile to a mega spring el 8900 where half the creek is gushing out of the ground. I can't think of a bigger spring in the state. Keep going up the easy canyon on game trails under a canopy of aspen. The next good springs are at 18654, 35501 el 9400. Next comes a major dry fork on the right at 18970, 35608 el 9700. Good springs are here too. I wouldn't camp any higher. Hike up the right fork to the last good spring at 19341, 35417 el 10200 then keep going up canyon to the main saddle el 10800 between Cleve Peak and S. Schell Peak. Turn right for 900 feet gain to the summit at 19467, 34676 where someone, likely sheepmen, built the best rock chair ever.  It took me nearly 5 hours with 4500 gain to the summit. I kept going on the rocky ridge to Black Mountain, which had nothing on it, then down the south ridge at 16308, 33651 el 10500 to the campground. There was no brush, but too many rocks caused it to take 6 hours. That route down is for mad dogs only. I went wrong by staying on the south ridge. I should have gone down the south ridge then veered left down a side ridge at 14989, 33279 because it has a track coming way up it. The high ridges were covered with tiny, fragrant flowers on tundra between the rocks. I would call the Forest Service to check on sheep before backpacking in here. It's certainly one of the best destinations in the state. Posted June 2015.
  • The KOLCHECK TRAIL is another hike in Cleve Creek canyon. Drive the same as Cleve Peak but only go 3 and a third miles past the campround and park at the TH reading N39 14202, W114 35557 el 6900. The trail goes left of a closed road. It tops out in a nice forest on the crest after 3000 ft gain. Walk the shady crest for a third mile to a peak I call Rocky Top at 12905, 37467 el 10150. 5 hrs, 3200 gain. Hardcore hikers can make a loop back via the Kolcheck Mine. Hike west on the crest, use the left side at first. Aim for a saddle at 13274, 38169 el 9900. A game trail can be used to continue along the left side of the crest. Another trail is further along at 13662, 38657. Don't drop off the crest until 14092, 38567 el 10400. Go down here on a steep ridge and aim for the mine road at 14590, 37742 el 8600. A cliff is just before the road. I went left around it. Going left on the road leads shortly to the mine, going right is the way back. The mine still has rails. Structures were built with logs instead of milled wood. The mine road goes down a canyon and connects with the Cleve Creek Rd about a mile up from the start. 7 hours, 3800 gain for the loop.
  • TAYLOR PEAK el 9400 is the first major peak north of US 50. A 4wd road goes to the east saddle el 8700. Take SR 893 to mp 3 then go 7 miles on a decent dirt road up Cooper Canyon to Cooper Meadows reading N39 97256, W114 38610 el 7200. Turn left and keep left of a corral and go along the left side of the meadows then the road gets steep and 4wd for sure. Stay on the main road all the way to the east saddle. It's only a one hour hike and 700 gain. The reg and BM are at 05476, 39270. The roads are mostly packed dirt. Mtn bikes would easily work to the meadows, but beyond there would entail a lot of pushing up steep grades. The road goes on thru the saddle and down to US 50 at mp WP 52, but I didn't ride it.  From the meadows, the main 4wd road going north goes over a pass to the state park. A right fork at 10067, 38404 el 8200 is the one that goes to the towers on Cave Mountain el 10700. Posted 2015.
  • O'NEAL PEAK el 10097 is the northernmost 10,000 footer in the Snake Range. It makes a good cycle ride or 4wd tour from Cleve Creek Cg. Take SR 893 to mp 17.9 and go east across the valley on a graded road to the main graded road on the east side that runs north/south. Go north for 7 and a half miles to the Eightmile road just before a ranch. The reading here is N39 22503, W114 21356. That easy 4wd road goes to the crest and was in good shape, but there was a rocky mile. Follow the first road going north on the crest until it fizzles in about 6 miles at el 9600. A shady camp is about 2 miles along. The peak is a mile away from the end of the road but 2 minor bumps are in the way. Hike to a table at 26225, 17151 el 9800 and walk that level along the right side of bumps to the BM at 26744, 17269. The hike took an hour and a half with 500 gain and was in a nice forest the whole way. A road runs south along the east side of the crest from the Eightmile road to the Fourmile road. It's easy to follow until a tricky fork at 20463, 14505. Both forks go, but since right is shorter I took that one but it turned out to be rocky. So try left and it too will go to the rim at 19304, 16497 el 9000. Now it's a steep descent down Fourmile Canyon to the main graded road. The hike and 75 mile ride took me 5 and a half hours. The roads on the crest were mostly packed dirt and frequently rutted, but no problem for 4wds. It might be better for cycles to reverse this and come down Eightmile as it seemed less steep. Posted 2015.
  • TAFT CREEK turnoff is at mp 21 on SR 893. The road ends at the mouth. It's way too rocky so forget it. But somebody drives up there, so there must be a brothel or something. Posted 2015.
  • McCOY CREEK turnoff is at mp 23.6 on SR 893. A decent 4wd road goes 2 and a half miles to a creekside camp. The road goes to hell after that. Posted 2015.
  • PIERMONT CREEK turnoff is near mp 33 on SR 893. An easy 4wd road goes about 6 miles to the wilderness boundary at el 8300. Down trees were blocking the last tenth mile. Nice creek and no cattle. Posted 2015.
  • KALAMAZOO  CREEK turnoff is at mp 38.3 on SR 893. A 2WD road goes 3 and a half miles to a campground that was trashed by cattle. What a stink. A skunk wouldn't camp there. I found one good spot up past the restroom. The road goes on another 5 miles to a pass el 9000 then on down to US 93.  Posted 2015.
  • KALAMAZOO CREEK SOUTH FORK - this is a dry fork but there is one spring I call Frenchman Spring and the best looking forest I saw in the whole range. Drive a mile and a quarter up from the Kalamazoo campground and park at the south fork. Walk a couple hundred feet to an old trail on the left bank reading N39 33657, W114 36297 el 7300. Go up canyon a mile and a half.  It's easy at first then fallen trees have to stepped over or walked around. At 32535, 36727 be sure to stay on the left bank. At 32358, 36733 el 8200 is where the spring stream is coming down  the right slope. Cross over and start up the right slope following the stream. At 32324, 36879 el 8400 is the first engraved aspen I saw. It read " Vive la France 1923". Beyond that a few feet is the water source in a small clearing and not safe to drink without treating. Many artistically engraved trees are here going back to 1921. Treat it like a rock art site and DON'T add your name. There is a good view of the upper canyon and Kalamazoo Peak.  It' obvious to return on the open slope at that level then after half a mile a major fork is in the way. Just go down the easy rim back to the main canyon and it's a mile back to the start. There is some light brush but with long pants it didn't slow me down a bit. 3 hours, 1100 gain. Posted 2015.
  • KALAMAZOO PEAK el 10948 (3337m) is what I call the peak at the head of the Kalamazoo Creek south fork, in the northern part of the High Schells Wilderness. It has the most dramatic summit face in the range. The north ridge is one route. Drive a mile and a quarter up from the Kalamazoo campground and park at the south fork. Walk a couple hundred feet to an old trail on the left bank reading N39 33657, W114 36297 el 7300. Go up canyon nearly 2 miles.  It's easy at first then fallen trees have to stepped over or walked around. At 32535, 36727 be sure to stay on the left bank. At 32358, 36733 el 8200 is where the Frenchman Spring is coming down  the right slope.That would have to be treated if you're camping there. Cattle don't wander up that far. Keep going on the left bank a bit more to 32221, 36716 el 8300 then start up the left slope. Go up to 32039, 36525 el 8900 then to a rim at 31925, 36344 el 9600 then top out on the north ridge at 31849, 36186 el 10000+. Now turn right toward the peak but there's a minor bump in the way. Walk level along the left side for a quarter mile to get past it and then you can see the rest of the route. Go up staying below the crags until a final grassy slope leading to the summit at 30893, 36416. It took me nearly 4 hours with 3700 gain to get there. I was in a fir forest the whole way until near the summit. I made a loop by going back to the campground via the north ridge. It's easy to walk the ridgetop but the downhill part is steep as hell. At 32864, 35691 el 9900 is where I started down "golf ball gully". I found a ball near there. The gully is very steep dirt under the trees. I angled down to a viewpoint at 33025, 35740 el 9300 where I could see a bald ridge just ahead. Game trails got me on it then it drops right to the campground. The loop hike took 7 and a half hours. This is the best hike in the range that is in a real wilderness. There was a little bit of knee high grass and other soft plants but no serious brush. I once tried this via the NW ridge from the pass but crags near the top meant taking a big dip so I got discouraged. Posted 2015.
  • MUNCY PEAK el 9450 is what I call the dramatic peak on the south rim of Muncy Creek, shown on maps as MM NO 2.  It's an easy hike from the west. Drive up creek from the Kalamazoo campground for nearly a mile to the north fork which has a creek flowing. Take the 4wd road up that to a divide with a cattleguard at el 8600. Turn right there and go to the end at a saddle el 8900. A big bump is in the way, so hike around the right side in some light brush to a saddle at N39 35543, W114 36237 el 9050. Now it's easy going up the ridge under big trees along the edge of the burn. There are no more bumps worth skirting. The ridge tops out at 3 peaks at about el 9500. Muncy has the view you want at 35586, 34998. 3 hours and a little over 1000 gain if you do all 3 peaks. Easy. Posted 2015.
  • MUNCY CREEK is near mp 40 on SR 893 where pavement ends. It burned and I was told the road washed out. I skipped it. I could see from a peak above that it's a barren wash. Posted 2015.
  • AURUM turnoff is 8 miles past the end of pavement on SR 893. The reading is N39 42921, W114 32075. It's 3 miles to Silver Canyon where a cemetery remains. A new sign tells how an avalanche killed some residents in 1884. The road goes up canyon for 2 miles to a basin with a fir forest and log cabin ruins at el 8600. It's easy 4wd but brushy.I saw no water. You could hike straight up to Siegal BM or use a mine road el 9200 on the south side of the canyon to get at the BM. SUNKIST is another site to the south with a creek but not much else. SNOWBANK CANYON has an ATV trail up it.  Posted 2015.
  • SIEGEL CREEK turnoff is 9 miles north of the end of pavement on SR 893. The reading is N39 43421, W114 32157. It's a decent road that soon merges with a better one and goes for a dozen miles along the east slope and joins the graded road just east of Schellbourne Pass. It's mostly packed dirt but there are a couple of 4wd spots. An OHV track forks off at 46687, 36260 el 7500 and goes up a ridge then goes up onto a higher ridge and on to the crest at the head of McCurdy Creek. Some mines are there and a cycle trail going south. The OHV track goes down the west side to the Schellbourne Ranch then down to US 93. Posted 2015.
  • NORTH LOVELL PEAK el 9600 has an easy 4wd road up into the west saddle el 8500. Use the good dirt road running along the east side of the Schell Creek Range and turn at N39 51039, W114 33317. The road runs north then west along the north rim of Spring Gulch. Drive up into the canyon ahead and keep left at forks and the road will top out at the west saddle.  The reg is at 51530, 38983. It's easy to run the bald crest south for 3/4 mile to LOVELL PEAK. Cooley's Cabin is along the drive in but it's just log cabin ruins. Posted 2015.
  • BECKY PEAK el 10000 caps the north end of the range. An easy 4wd road goes up to el 9000 on the NE ridge. Use the good dirt road running along the east side of the Schell Creek Range and turn west at N39 55567, W114 31854. Stay on that road and it goes up Box Canyon and all the way up to the NE ridge. Hike up the bald ridge but don't stray too far left like I did and get into brush where a big fat rattler was waiting. That must have been Becky. The reg is at 58301, 36174. 2 hours, 1100 gain. Posted 2015. 
  • BALDY PEAK el 9360 is the high point of the Antelope Range. Use the good dirt road running along the east side of the Schell Creek Range and turn east at N39 59133, W114 30915. Drive to the first main fork in the range. A sign there says "Tunnel Canyon" is to the right. Keep right and now it's 4wd. Stay on the main road until it tops out at el 8500. Turn left there and drive to the end at the west saddle el 8800. It's a half mile to the reg and Smoothie BM at 57851, 23792. The main dirt road drops down the east side then comes back up and runs along the crest for 8 air miles to a T which is the Pony Express route. Turning right there takes you over Rock Springs Pass and back out. That was all easy 4wd and the best part of the trip in 2015. The map shows a road climbing up the crest from the head of Chin Creek. That looks interesting.
  • An OHV track just east of Shellbourne Pass goes up to the crest at el 8800 just south of Lovell Peak. Turn north off the graded road at N39 48811, W114 37688 and go about an air mile to Garrett Canyon. Go up that canyon to the crest. It's a 45 minute walk up the crest to Lovell Peak and 20 minutes more to North Lovell. Nice ride. Posted 2015.
  • McMAUGHN CANYON turnoff is west of Shellbourne Pass at N39 48232, W114 40588 el 6900. An easy 4wd road goes 3 and a half miles up canyon then goes parabolic up the right slope. The road is packed dirt so a mtn bike would work to the 8100 level then it would be a short hike to the Lovell peaks. Some ranch ruins and springs are in there. Posted 2015.
  • SIEGAL BENCHMARK el 10200 is in a cluster of peaks south of Schellbourne Pass. Whiteman Creek has a road but a ranch might lock it off at any time. The jeep road up Mattier Creek is smoother. Use the old highway on the west side of the range to get to a fork at N39 41202, W114 44476. Drive up into the canyon and stay left at a main fork at el 7050. Stay on the main road to another fork at 42136, 38693 el 8200. Go left and keep going up to the crest where the road goes to the saddle el 9850 south of the peak. A track goes from there most of the way to the BM at 43047, 37520. Whiteman Peak is what I call the 10000 footer a mile to the NW. A foot trail on the crest runs along side it. Cycles and ATVs will have a smooth ride on these roads but 4wds will have 2 wheels in a rut, mostly above the 8600 level. Getting to the 8200 level is easy but brushy. It wouldn't be a hard hike from there. No cattle or horses in this area.  Posted 2015.
  • BIG INDIAN CREEK is a main route onto the crest. A good road goes up the shady canyon about 4 miles to the 8000 level then climbs out and goes 4wd. It meets the Ranger 4wd Trail on the crest. I went north on that to the north fork of Mattier Creek where the road shrinks to a foot trail at el 9000 and drops in. I was able to ride a 125 down to an ATV track then get on the road up to Siegal BM. The south fork of Mattier has an ATV track coming down from the Ranger Trail. One peak to do in this area is the one at N39 41945, W114 37496 el 10300.  The first 4 miles in Big Indian Canyon would make for a good mtn bike ride. Posted 2015.
  •  NORTH SCHELL PEAK - from Mcgill, go north about 5 miles on  US 93 to the paved Duck Creek Road. Take that for 8 and a half miles and turn left at the sign for Timber Creek Campground. Go 4 miles on bumpy 2wd thru the campground then to roads end on 4wd in about half a mile after the campground. A couple of good camps are here at 9000 ft. Hike up the trail in the left fork. Above timberline, forget the trail and get on the ridge to the left and then go on to the top at N39 24812, W114 36010 el 11800. 4 hrs, 2800 gain. 
  • SOUTH SCHELL PEAK is a short hike. Drive the same as North Schell but don't turn off the Duck Creek Road. Stay on it going south for nearly 2 miles to the end of pavement. Turn left for 5 miles on the graded Berry Creek Road to a campground. Now it's easy 4wd to the end at 9400 feet. Mtn bikes would work but strenuous. I filled up at a gushing spring at N39 19018, W114 37102. Then I went up to the right on a game trail. When that fizzled I came back left into the trees to another trail at 19011, 36907 and kept going north to a saddle at 19541, 36359 el 11100. From there it's an easy stroll north for 3/4 mile to the summit el 11700+. 3 hours, 2400 gain. 
  • CLEVE CREEK BALDY has a trail most of the way. Drive to Cave Creek State Park but don't turn in at the entrance. Instead,keep going north to Success Summit. Then go another quarter mile down the other side to a sharp left turn. Now go right for a mile on a 4wd road to a camp spot at the end el 9500. Hike up the canyon on a rocky trail to timberline then go up the easy slope to the reg at N39 15621, W114 38776 el 10940. 2 hours, 1500 gain. Nice easy hike. If you really want to wuss out,you can drive to the top of CAVE MOUNTAIN el 10700. Drive thru the state park. I never pay to drive thru. Go on up canyon and turn left after 3 miles and go up on an easy 4wd road. This is the highest in the state that the average SUV can make it.



  • MAJOR BM, SCHELL BM el 9900+ is the first major peak south of US 50. Two good routes go up from near Buck Spr. Take US 50 to mp WP 54.9 then turn SE on a good road. Go 4 miles to a main fork and go left for 8 miles on a good road to a road on the left forking backwards at N38 54352, W114 41424 el 7500. This is the road up the canyon with Buck Spring, but only OHVs use it. I rode to the end at 53287, 39477 el 8400. A mtn bike would work here.  A trail from there goes up canyon a short way then you can cross over to the left slope and just keep going up to the Major BM at 54311, 37659 with a good view to the east. The reg is on the high point just before the BM. Schell BM, a few feet lower, is an easy half mile walk to the west. That route up is a nice hike with no brush. 4 hours, 1600 gain. 4wds should avoid Buck Spring canyon and stay on the main road another half mile to get on the south rim road. I didn't ride it, but I know it fades at 53075, 39777 el 8400. It looked easy to walk up the rim from there and it merges with the other route. I filled up with cold water from the spring. Posted 2015.
  • MOUNT GRAFTON el 10990 is the highest peak south of US 50. The unsteepest route is an elk route that goes up the north ridge. There are two ways to get at the north ridge. Take US 93 to mp WP 1.3 and take a good dirt road for a mile and a third to forks at a gate. Straight ahead goes to the standard TH el 6800. The next fork to the right of that goes to Campbell Spring el 7150 which is where I started. That road is 4wd for 4 and a half miles with some tricky ruts. From the spring, go up canyon on a trail which enters a left fork in a fifth mile. It's a shady walk up that fork to where the canyon opens up at el 7900. There is brush here but not too hard to get thru on a million animal trails. The ridge I went up is at N38 43487, W114 44839 el 8300. The forest starts at el 8500 then there is no more brush. There is a bump in the way at el 9200, but a trail goes around the right at 42945, 45094. The next crag has an obvious trail around the right. The trees get thick so aim for 42496, 44972 el 9500 where you can stay left of dense aspen. Now peak 10109 is the next thing. Elk are getting around it on the right on trails at 42318, 44977 el 9700. Go up on various trails to a main trail at 42171, 44919 el 10000 then it's obvious the rest of the way to the BM at 41531, 44546. 7 and a half hours, 3900 gain. The first third mile of this hike is in a burn area. The spring had a small, clear flow from a pipe. The other way to get to the north ridge is the road in Robbers Roost Basin. A major road runs across the north end of the basin. A decent road runs south from that at 50317, 46617 for 6 miles to the closure at el 8050 with some shady camps.There is only one main road to follow. 2wd trucks might make it if they can get past the first tenth mile. I didn't hike the closed road, but the map shows it has some dips. I could see that it went as far as the saddle el 8750 due west of peak 8785. This would likely be the easiest way though it is a mile longer each way. Posted Sept 2015.
  • PATTERSON BENCHMARK el 10063 is the southernmost 10000 footer in the range. A mine road goes to el 9700, OHVs can get to el 9500. Take US 93 along the east side of the peak to a big sign for Patterson Pass. Turn onto a graded road and go nearly 4 miles to the mine road reading N38 35684, W114 42766 el 6965. Only OHVs can fit on the road but it's not eroded. It tops out on the west side of the summit at el 9500. Two overgrown roads fork left from there. Take the higher one to el 9700 then go straight up and then along a spine of bedrock to the BM at 37117, 43838. If I had no OHV, I would hike up the mine road then go down the south ridge to the pass. A free semi-shady OHV campground is about a mile in from the highway. There is no rule that says you have to have an OHV to camp there. Posted 2015.
  • SILVER KING MOUNTAIN el 7851 is at the south end of the Schell Creek Range. Take SR 318 to mp NY 9.7 and go SE on a graded road for about 9 miles to Silver King Pass. Hike to the mouth of the north canyon at N38 13691, W114 53188 el 6400. There are 2 ways to go. Either up the ridge to your right, which is the NW ridge, or up canyon. I went up canyon to the saddle at 13108, 52906 el 7000 on the NE ridge. Then I went on up the ridge. There's a cliff in the way at el 7500. I went up along the left side then got back on top of the ridge and on to the Black Cone BM at 12747, 53336. I returned down the NW ridge to the mouth of the canyon. 2 and a half hours, 1500 gain. The hike is in a nice pj forest the whole way. Posted 2015.
      • BURNT PEAK el 7189 is a conical pile of loose rocks at the southern tip of the Schell Creek Range. The NW slope is a decent route. Take SR 318 to the Bristol Wells Rd at mp LN 46.4. Go east about 2 and a half miles to an easy 4wd road at N38 07313, W114 57795. Follow that road toward the peak. Stay right at forks near the peak. The last turnaround for 4wds is at 10261, 55367 el 6400, just short of the NW saddle. I hiked from the saddle and stayed under the rock field then angled up to a game trail at 10183, 54907 which led me to the surveyor junk on the summit. 1 hour, 800 gain. Mtn bikes would work here. This little pipsqueak peak isn't so tough. I showed it who's boss. Posted 2015