Sids Mountain Area, Utah

I named him Alfred E. Neuman. " What, me worry? "

1. I went in from exit 131 on I-70. I followed  the graded road to Buckhorn Draw for a dozen miles and set up camp. A good Verizon signal from Cedar Mtn rains down on the area. The best water I found was a stream 3 miles up Buckhorn Draw near a spring on the topo. Then I returned to I-70 and went to the Moore cutoff and on to Ferron and out on the Dutch Flat Rd. Ebikes would work on every road I traveled. Posted 2026

2. SWASEYS LEAP is on the topo south of Mexican Mtn and the site where Sid Swasey allegedly jumped his horse 14 feet across the river. The road in is easy 4wd except one spot a couple miles before the end. I went in off the Buckhorn road at Sinkhole Reservoir. There is a fork at peak 6216. Left has better views. Right is better and Subaru types might make it to the fork at peak 5860 and then ebike the rest. The last 4 miles from there is rougher and the bad spot is at the 5440 line. It's just some minor steps. The road is closed south of peak 5102. I walked it then cut a huge loop by crossing a wash at 38 59473, W110 29063 and then across the next one at 59569, 28904 and on to the road where it says 4wd on the topo. I took one more shortcut at 59705, 28621 then the road ends over the Leap which is where the topo shows it at 59400, 27998. The easiest way down is to go right down a trail then come back along the cliff base. That looks like the way stock were taken. It took a bit over an hour to walk the 2 miles one way. Easy hike. I can't think of another river with rims 14 feet apart.  I put a track on peakbagger under Jackass Benches. Posted 2026

3. SIDS DRAW MESA is what I call the long skinny one on the east side of the draw. An easy one way hike can be done. I parked on the graded Buckhorn road near point 6694 and headed for the west side of peak peak 6626 to get on the rim. I crossed a fence there then had to cross back so maybe should have just followed it. I walked the nearly pristine rim then turned right just before point 6347 (it would likely work just to keep going down the rim ) and down to point 6126 where I had spotted my cycle. I had a 4 and a half miles ride back. 2 and a half hours, 5 miles and nearly all downill. Great pj forest. A car and an ebike gets it done. This is so easy it makes pie look hard. Posted 2026

4. SIDS DRAW - I parked at Sids Reservoir and went up canyon then back on the west rim. There are cattle trails that cut the bends then at the 6040 line I entered a shallow canyon. Cattle don't go in because they can't get thru but hikers can. When it opens up there is a trail on the right bank and I strolled on up almost to point 6442 where I could easily go up and over peak 6461. I went on to the rim at N38 55985, W110 39610 and walked it down to 57192, 40166 where I could drop down a ridge to the flats. A trail along the base took me back. 4 hours, 9 miles with 200 noticeable gain. Another great pj forest on the rim. Posted 2026

5. COTTONWOOD DRAW MESA is what I call the one on the east side of the Buckhorn road. It can be done as a one way using the road for a shuttle. or a loop from Three Coves Reservoir which is what I did. The road into the reservoir is easy 4wd and ebikeable. I parked there and walked the road a bit more and then thru a saddle to N38 58744, W110 37585 where I could look up a canyon and see it goes. It's best to stay on the right bank to a fork just below the rim then take either fork. I then just strolled to point 6045 then down a slope at 58934, 39352 to get back. 3 and a half hours, 7 miles with 300 noticeable gain. There are two worlds here. Pristine on top and decimated by cattle on the flats. Posted 2026.

6. LOCKHART MESAS - the west side of the Lockhart road is lined with mesas. I made a loop on two close to the river. The road is easy 4wd and I parked south of point 5647. Then walked to a game trail at N39 00205, W110 36062 that took me to the top. I went on down to a saddle at 01417, 35624 then down a trail there into a wash that leads to a main wash separating the two mesas. I took a short trip down to the river then came back and took the fork that goes to the south saddle of peak 5370. I walked the mesa to the north saddle of point 5546 and took a trail down to the road and then back. 3 hours, 5 and a half miles with 400 noticeable gain. Returning in the wash between the mesas would be even easier. Cattle impact is light. A minor fall blocks them from coming up the main wash. Posted 2026

7. OIL WELL DRAW - a high clearance road goes 2.5 miles from the Buckhorn road out on the north rim to a campsite with a view at point 5925. Loop hikes can be done from there. The easiest route down the draw would be walk one way from the Three Coves Reservoir road to the river then wade across to an ebike spotted on the other side. That would be about 8 miles. Second easiest is a loop which is what I did. I coasted from camp on my bike to the Buckhorn road then down to the draw and took the road to Three Coves Reservoir. I dropped off the rim at N38 59342, W110 39472 and strolled on down canyon. Boulders are east of point 5656 and cow shit beyond there was greatly reduced. A narrows about a tenth mile long is NE of peak 5753 and blocks all cattle for a ways. I walked around potholes in there but one would need a knee deep wade.  Instead, I went up on the right for 30 feet to a shelf to pass it. I went on to a left fork at the 5240 line reading N39 01020, W110 36903. I went 100 feet up it then up to the right rim and walked up it a quarter mile to a hard packed cow trail. I went on to 00967, 38254 where I could see a route up on the left then on top I could see the rest. 3 and a half hours, 7 miles and 500 noticeable gain. Easy walking on a lot of slickrock. A shorter version would be to drop down from camp and pick up the loop there. No shuttle needed. RIM LOOP - I walked the rim to the river then upstream to a wash and back. From camp I went north down a drainage then to N39 00789, W110 38244 to get down into a canyon. I went down that and soon had a cow trail on the left bank (the same one as the first hike). I turned left up a fork south of point 5534 to get on the final rim to the river. A 1933 marker is above the river at 02287, 36307. I got down a steep slope at 01751, 36506 and then down the wash to the river. I went upstream to the next wash which is west of point 5269 and that's the best to return in. But I went one more wash and back. It has a trail south of point 5585 reading 01533, 39301 that goes up to the rim. But that's a dozen miles total and so the wash west of point 5269 is more practical for the return. For that I estimate 5 hours and 500 noticeable gain. Cattle impact is moderate and they were gone May 6, 2026

8. SADDLE BENCHMARK el 7562 is just north of I-70. An easy 4wd road goes under I-70 and on to the west side of the peak. The topo shows it ends but no it's a rough jeep road down to Cane Wash where it gets easy again. I came in that way from Oil Well Flat and parked on the north side of the peak then up a ridge at N38 53806, W110 45348. It tops out at 53646, 45357 then it's a stroll to the summit. 90 minutes, 600 gain. Back on the road, I went back a little to a smooth ATV trail that goes to peak 7028 then on around a spire. That trail is highlighted on the sat image.  From there it's an easy walk out to the peak that has a long skinny neck. I dropped down a cliff at 54546, 45120 to get out there. It took an hour to get out there but I walked the ATV trail because I didn't see it. That's the more enjoyable hike of the two. Both hikes are class 2. I saw a Forerunner going down the jeep road and a new Bronco going up. Onyx rates it a moderate. Posted 2026

9. WINDOW BLIND PEAK is technical but there is a scenic traverse that sissies can do. Nothing harder than class 2. It runs along the plateau at about the 5800 line. I parked on the Buckhorn road at the canyon north of point 5850. And then should have spotted my bike at least a mile north but didn't know I was going to get thru. I walked up canyon to a mine road going up the rim on the right at N39 02555, W110 40393.  It's faint and goes nearly all the way to peak 5863. I just kept walking the easy shelf north around the point then SE where it got narrower but still easy. At one spot I had to go slightly higher to 03177, 39345 then back down to the rim of the descent canyon. I could look down and see how I would need to stay far right of boulders for an easy route down. At bottom a road goes left thru the south saddle of Assembly Hall Peak and on to the Buckhorn road. But with no shuttle I left the road at the 5240 line. That took 4 hours, 40 minutes and 9 miles. The only noticeable gain is the 300 at the start. And did take a detour to 5863. A shuttle will cut it down a mile or more. I put a track on peakbagger but the track doesn't run up the mine road at the start as I was following the Hall track. I'll put up another track for peak 6345 that shows it. Who'd a thunk there's a road up there? SHORT VERSION - there is a class 2 break in the rim east of peak 5863 at 03027, 40091. I went down there and hit the road a mile from the start. I had a bike there this time. 3 hours, 5 miles. And I took a side trip to the point west of peak 6345. I put up a track under that peak. Posted 2026

10. CANE WASH LOOP - I walked up river to Cane then up it to a trail that goes over Calf Mesa back to the start.  I parked near the river where the road ends at a crossing near point 5185. I could have drove a car there.  I followed a trail along the river then at 2.3 miles the river took it out. But I could go left under a boulder and on to Cane where pictographs are under an overhang. I strolled up Cane and it had an intermittent clear stream but tiny. The trail goes up on the mesa at N39 03380, W110 43894 then I stayed right of a sheer peak and on to the descent trail at 02976, 42581. It drops to a canyon that leads back. The last important trail is on the right bank at 04232, 41880 then I got to a fence and took a hard left along that to get on the best trail. 5 hours, 13 miles, easy grades. I put a track on peakbagger under peak 6362. Posted 2025

11. CALF MESA is huge with long tentacles. Faded uranium mine roads are all over the top. I used a stock trail out of the NE canyon to make an easy loop. I parked near the river where the road ends at a crossing near point 5185. I could have drove a car there. I walked south up the canyon west of Bottleneck Peak using a trail on the west side. The trail goes up a side canyon at N39 02952, W110 42422 and high on the left to the rim. Before going up I walked a fifth mile up the main canyon and found seasonal water at a cottonwood. Once on top I walked the rim to 02505, 42634 where I could drop in and go downstream a litte then up a right fork for a few feet to get out and on to a road that leads to mines on the rim near peak 6265. The road goes on north to a canyon where I dropped in at 03565, 41772. I went down to a huge boulder then stayed high on the left to get down. 4 hours, 20 minutes and 9 miles with 500 noticeable gain. I put a track on peakbagger under the peak. The south side of the mesa has a car converted to a winch at 01703, 42979. A decent class 2 route goes up the rim out of a little canyon on the west side and tops out at 02234, 43465. The road the miners made to get on top is north of that. Posted 2025

12. PEAK 6545 is on the north side of Calf Mesa. A class 2 route goes up the north canyon. I followed tracks by Grant and Hall on peakbagger.  I parked near the river where the road ends at a crossing near point 5185. I could have drove a car there.  I followed a trail along the river for 2 miles and then up the canyon west of peak 6095. Up canyon at the first main fork there is a fall blocking the right fork. I went past it to N39 04945, W110 43209 then up to the right a little and back to the lip of the fall. Then up canyon at about 04934, 43305 are huge boulders. I went high right on smooth ground to pass then turned south up a fork. At 04803, 43383  el 5800 I went right up a slope to a cliff base then left along it to a break. Then on to a steep ridge at 04530, 43318. Some use a gully to the right. At top it's easy on to west side of the summit dome and a class 2 groove at 04320, 43442. I took a side trip to peak 6325. An old cairn is along the way. Grant and Hall took under 3 hours for the direct round trip. Gain from the river is 1400. I put up a track on peakbagger showing side trips. Posted 2026

13. INDIAN BENCHMARK el 7143 is at exit 131. The road along the east side is easy 4wd and it bends left where an obvious ridge facing north goes up. I circled back on the rim thru peak 7138 then dropped back down at about N38 53692, W110 41029. 2 hours and 400 noticeable gain. I nearly stepped on a rattler on top. Posted 2026

14. MESA 7235 is SW of The Wikiup on the north side of the freeway. It looks like a deformed animal on the topo. From exit 131 the roads go west then under the freeway and along the west side of the mesa. A campsite with a great view is at the end of the road on the rim. A route may go up from there but I went up just before at N38 52787, W110 43643. I cirlced the rim for 6 miles. There is 200 gain to get up there then easy. That took nearly 4 hours. This is one of the best. No sign of hikers, likely because it's not in the peakbagger database. All roads easy 4wd. Subaru types might make it. Posted 2026

15. REID NEILSON DRAW is a good slot canyon. From exit 131 a road cirlces west for 6 miles to it next to peak 6824. Cars make it that far. Then a high clearance road goes a fifth mile along the draw to parking. I crossed to the far bank and walked down at N38 50175, W110 39196. I had to wade a dozen pools to get to Crawford Draw. All were less than crotch deep but one at Crawford was waist deep. The underwear needed a wash anyway. I went on down Crawford for 15 minutes to the canyon opposite Charley Holes and came back up there. That took nearly 2 hours and nearly 3 miles. It can be extended by staying in Crawford to some class 3 boulders NE of peak 6569 then come back. Lots of easy gravel. Wear wading shoes and take a stick to probe pools. Or better yet, take a friend and let them go first. What are friends for?  DRY VERSION - I went to Crawford Holes and down the far left channel. A few feet before the confluence with Reid Neilson I came to tricky potholes. I went left up a chute then back down to get past them. DRIEST VERSION - stay on the north rim of Crawford to the confluence then come down to the chute. Posted 2026

16. DEVILS CANYON is best as a one way but nobody does it. There's nothing harder than class 2 except one class 4 spot  where the canyon enters a slot and that is easy with a hand line.  I-70 makes it easy to set up. A game trail goes in from the view area at mp 115.5. I took exit 108 and parked my camp trailer at the road to Clyde and Neils Pond. Then I rode my cycle to the view area and walked SE to a skinny point. At a saddle reading N38 50792, 110 55422 is where the trail cuts back to the right. I walked it north for 250 feet then down a ridge at 50832, 55446 and hit a stream at bottom. It soon dried up then I had to go up a little on the left to pass a 12 foot drop. I left cairns there as well as earlier parts of the route. Next, I hit the main canyon then had a short walk to a drop where the slot starts. The class 4 way down is in view there. It's sloping slickrock about 12 feet high. It's obvious I had to walk a trail on the right rim then come back on a lower shelf to get at it. I used a 3 inch gator hook and a 20 foot line to get down and had a pull cord to release the hook. I put a video clip up on that. Road Trip Ryan has details on the side canyons encountered below the slot. The one he calls number 6 drains from peak 7192. I went up that for a dozen minutes to a shoulder wide slot blocked by a fall. The next one I went up drains the north side of peak 6825. It reads 49425, 58991. I went for 7 minutes to a pool. I could have gone on. Then I went up the one east of point 6455. In 10 minutes I hit a 15 foot fall in the left fork. I didn't try the right fork. It's a natural looking canyon as far as the spring where tamarisk and horse shit starts showing up. A mile or so past the spring is the exit trail at 49316, 01850. I walked it out then into a firm wash at 49469, 01913 that leads to the pond. Walking straight thru with no side trips takes 6 and a half hours and 14 miles. The only gain is the 200 at the exit trail. Half a mile could be saved by spotting a 4wd at the pond. Rain a week before had left some small pools. The first was NW of peak 6850 then another a mile past that. Then the one in the side canyon. The spring was a trickle coming out of a wall. Horses can't pollute it but it would take all day to fill up. I don't think this is long enough to justify backpacking but I would wait for rain to firm the sand up and maybe go in the standard route from Justensen Flat. That would be an 18 mile walk.  2 miles could be saved by driving the easy 4wd from there to canyon bottom. At the end I would ride a mtn bike down to  retrieve the 4wd. Posted 2026.

17. PEAK 6007 is just north of exit 108 and makes an easy loop. I walked from the exit along the freeway to Bitter Seeps Wash then up into the fork south of point 5738. But first I had to go up thru a cliff at N38 51389, W111 04514. It's class 3 and 5 feet high. I stayed right  bending south of point 5738 into a red bowl. I saw an easy slope on the left to get out of the bowl and that's how I went after checking that there was no canyon route out. But it would be preferable to exit the bowl on the right and top out on a neck west of peak 6007 reading 51267, 04286. But don't top out any more west of that. I walked over the peak then looked for a way down to the east side road and that looked hopeless. But amazingly I found a cairn at 51314, 03975 that marks a way down. It's steep but soft and so I didn't think it risky. Then there is a slickrock rim to walk south to a point where a  route down is on the right and then left to a ridge at 50965, 03762 that goes down to exit 108. 3 hours, 5 miles with 150 noticeable gain. No cattle on the high ground for years and never any in the canyon around point 5738. Posted 2026 

18. REEDS MESA is NE of exit 108. It's dull but the canyons that drain it have scenic red cliffs. I went up the canyon north of point 5805 then down the canyon south of it. 2 hours, 5 miles and hardly any noticeable gain. No cattle for years. Cars can get close to this hike but the road on up South Salt Wash is a disaster. More red canyons are SW of the exit. I went up the one on the west side of the 12 on the topo. Soon I hit a main fork. Right goes into a narrows and is blocked, left goes to a large fall at the interstate. I tried a slope on the right but couldn't make the last 8 feet. I retraced back. 2 hours and 4.4 miles. Posted 2026

19. SAND BENCH has a pristine section next to Muddy Creek. Good hike but I l'll have to refine it and post it later.

20. MULLIGAN BENCHMARK el 5900 is along Muddy Creek at Lone Tree Crossing. I made a loop in canyons around it then over it at the end.  The road in from exit 108 is easy 4wd. I parked on the north side at a corral. The ridge 200 feet south of the corral would be my descent ridge. I walked up the canyon on the north side of the peak and came to a fall just past point 5618.  I went up to the right at N38 45799, W111 09566 to get past it and back down at 45759, 09685. I took a left fork there and goes to a trail at 45189, 10047. It goes on to 44997, 10355 where it drops into the return canyon. I went down to a fall and went right to get down then at a big fall I went right to 44667, 09603 to get down but saw an easier way down in another tenth mile at a point. I strolled on down past cottonwoods then up a canyon on the left at 44986, 08167 to get at the peak. It didn't look good so I walked the left rim of it and then on up the west ridge of the peak. Then I dropped south to a crack at 45530, 08266. I had to make a big step onto some shaky boulders then left down to the flats. There is another break in the cliff to the west that might be safer or just keep going and merge with the west ridge and come back around. I walked the flat east around a hill then up a little to another flat then started down at 45673, 07828 and walked a shelf to the last ridge at 45739, 07889 and bottomed out south of the corral. 5 and a half hours, 10 miles and 600 noticeable gain. 500 of it is the peak which can be skipped. There is nothing harder than class 2 that is mandatory.  Hikers just doing the peak should pick up the route at 44986, 08167 which isn't far from the main road near point 5485. No cattle for years but the open ground is trampled by horses. Posted 2026

21. EAGLE CANYON - an OHV trail goes down canyon to a fall at the 6400 line. The next big side canyon below that coming in from the east is Forgotten Canyon. A hiker trail goes into lower Eagle Canyon down a canyon on the east side of point 6396. The road in leaves the Moore cutoff at mp 16.7. It's 5.3 miles of easy 4wd to a closed road at N38 54216, W110 55567. It ends in 500 feet then a trail goes on to a point and drops left at 54469, 55590 then there are some minor drops that are easily passed to get to the main canyon.  I went up past Forgotten Canyon to a flooded slot north of peak 6860. Not interested in wading just for the last little bit, I went up 20 feet and walked a trail on the rim. I passed a 1972 survey marker then could see the fall. I kept going on class 3 to 52851, 54390 where I could go low or high. Low has 10 feet or so of exposure and would be safest. I went high and got thru to the OHV trail but that has fatal exposure. This part is strictly for those wanting to test their mettle. It just sloping slickrock that you have to judge.  I won't do it solo again. Real climbers would stroll right thru. On the return I went up Forgotten for 7 minutes to tedious boulders and made a U-turn. Figure on 2 hours to get to the fall or the rim viewpoint I went to. It's nearly 5 miles one way and nothing harder than class 2. Sand wasn't bad as no recent hikers had been ahead of me to churn it up. Posted 2026

22. LOOKOUT POINT is along the Moore cutoff. At mp 12.4 a graded road gets close with good camping on slickrock and a Verizon signal. The summit has a 6 foot cairn and needs a new jar. Posted 2026

23. TWIN PONDS BENTONITE HILLS is an area below the south end of Molen Reef with a lot of loop possibilities. The road to the ponds is easy 4wd. To get on the high peak west of peak 6012, I walked west from the ponds up a canyon to a main fork west of peak 6014. Right is a bouldery mess. I went left then up a drainage at N38 52275, W111 07300. I got to the rim then on to the high point and on down the rim to 51709, 07973 where cairns marked a way down. But that would be a short hike so I went on to a wash at 51617, 08287 that took me to a bigger wash then up that to get under Emery BM. I went north to a deep canyon then walked an old road on the left rim to 52989, 08186 where I could drop into the canyon. I walked it out then thru a canyon at 52769, 06884 to get back. 4 hours, 8 miles and 200 noticeable gain. No recent cattle but they don't affect the bentonite anyway. SOUTH FERRON RESERVOIR CANYONS -  I went up the canyon on the east side of peak 6365 intending to cut thru the north saddle but the saddle is impassable. I backed up a little then up a rock slide at 54603, 05677 to get on the rim then down into the west canyon at 54696, 05935. That loop took 2 hours with 300 gain. The ascent canyon is best and  cattle can't get into it.  Posted 2026

24. EMERY BENCHMARK el 7126 is on the south part of the Molen Reef and might be the high point. A one way rim walk starts on the jeep road east of peak 6206 and ends at the Moore cutoff. I left a bike at mp 6 on the cutoff and drove around to the jeep road. It's near the Rochester Panel TH. I walked it up like the topo shows but it fades at the 6900 line. Newer roads from there would be longer so it's best to walk the route of the road as shown on the topo or just head for the BM. At the rim it's simple to the BM then at point 6908 there is a big dip. I went left of some hills and back to the rim to get up to a road. Then at N38 53992, W111 07321 I went down a cliff and on to peak 6930. I went along the right side of it and on down the rim past peak 6445 and then there is an old road running down the rim to the old Moore cutoff. 5 and a half hours, 12 miles with 1500 gain and nearly all easy. The bike ride back is 9 miles or so.  No cattle for years. Posted 2026

25. CEDAR RIDGE BENCHMARK el 6688 is on the Molen Reef north of the Moore cutoff. A one way is best from the cutoff to Short Canyon. A high clearance road runs north from the cutoff along the east base of the reef to a road into Short Canyon. It's not worth going more than a third mile on the latter road due to many micro dips. Then just ride a mtn bike back to the cutoff and up to the gap NW of peak 6305 and head for the rim. I went to N38 56696, W111 06626 and followed a draw to the rim and on past the BM. I dropped down into Short at 58338, 05159 . The hike is 5 or 6 miles long depending on where the vehicle at the end is spotted and 400 easy gain. Figure on 3 hours for the hike. The bike ride is 6 miles. No cattle for years and few made it to the rim and none made it to the north end. Posted 2026

26. DUTCH FLAT ROAD - this is a maintained road out of Ferron for 15 miles to a camp area at Bellevue Flats el 5545. Cars make it there when dry then it's easy 4wd on various forks. A good Verizon signal covers the area. A flowing well is about 5 miles along the road below the Red Ledges at N39 06214, W110 52021. Cottonwoods are about a mile on the road into Coal Wash and some water was there.  I filtered all. Posted 2026

27. FERRON BENCHMARK el 6371 is 9 air miles SE of Ferron. A 4wd road goes most of the way up. I walked it then looped back to the south. The graded Dutch Flat Rd goes out of town to a fork el 5861 just before Cinderella Reservoir. Go south on high clearance for 2 and a half miles to a gate. A tenth mile past the gate is where the 4wd road goes left up the mountain. I went a quarter mile on it and parked.  It tops out on the rim just north of the summit. I walked south from the summit past peak 6325 then on to the broad peak east of peak 6216 then I headed back. 3 hours, 42 minutes and 8 miles with 1100 gain. Posted 2026

28. EAGLE BENCHMARK el 7042 is north of Secret Mesa at the head of Wood Hollow. It's easy up the north ridge then south into a canyon to get back. The road from Bellevue Flats el 5545 is easy 4wd for 10 miles to a road going east to a stock tank near point 6458. But that road is gone so go another tenth mile or so then left on another road and park west of point 6458 and then walk to it and on to the north ridge of the peak. Once at the peak, I kept going to east to peak 7073 just past an arch on the topo. But I never saw an arch. I went over the peak then back around the south side. It's safer to go around the south side then up the east side. I retraced a little then down a draw to get into the south canyon. I could see that route down as I was walking from the BM. I walked the canyon down to the 6600 line then left up a side canyon to get out then back to the start. 4 and a half hours, 8 miIes and about 1000 gain. No cattle beyond point 6458. I put a track on peakbagger under peak 7073. WOOD HOLLOW - I did it as a separate hike but could be combined with Eagle BM. I parked on the road at the 6200 line and walked to 56703, 54747 then on to the canyon and up the fork leading to point 6464. Just before reaching it I went SE on the low ground to the rim and walked it to the end el 6980. I descended to 54728, 52828 where I could see routes into the canyon. I walked it back but could have gone to peak 7073 and Eagle BM and walked the north ridge back. That took 5 hours, 9 and a half miles and nearly all easy grades. The canyon is in pristine condition.  Posted 2026

29. McCARTY CANYON is a rarely visited one. I went up the east rim then back down the canyon.  It's easy 4wd from Bellevue Flats to the Little Wedge. Just past point 5686 the road bends north. A wooden fence at the bend marks the TH. I walked the trail down then to N39 03254, W110 51780 to get across Salt Wash. I walked the bank a short way to a stock trail that follows the rim to the mouth of McCarty just above a fall. I went across to the east rim and up to point 6195 then dropped a little to walk slickrock. I went around the rim to a class 3 entry SW of peak 6522 reading N38 58731, W110 49219. It's 5 feet down to a rest then another 5 feet. Then I went right along the cliff base for 200 feet then down a ridge to bottom. Soon I came to a drop and went along the left for 250 feet then took an angle down. Just before the 5920 line I came to 2 waterholes, one with tadpoles. I went on down to a 1910 Ferron inscription at N39 01013, W110 50813, The next left fork past that has ponderosa pines. And then I came to a big waterhole where the creekbed bends east north of peak 5808. That lasts for weeks. In less than 10 minutes I was back at the trail and out. 9 hours, 20 minutes and 16 miles with 1500 gain and nearly all easy. No cattle in the canyon for decades and none on the rim. SHORTCUT VERSIONS - It looked good going to peak 6253 then peak 6226 then take a line at peak 6014 to get down. Going west from peak 6206 looked possible. On the west rim going north from peak 6208 leads down. I interrupted sheep coming down that. I didn't do any of these but just looked at them with a scope as I passed under. Posted 2026

30. MESQUITE WASH runs parallel to McCarty Canyon. An easy 4wd road runs up the west rim but is closed at the 6000 line. It shows best on the global topo on the peakbagger app. I walked it nearly 3 miles to N38 58964, W110 51334 then dropped down into the canyon. I hit bottom and walked parallel to the rim in a wide drainage and came to a minor drop at a big pine. I likely could have gone down the drop and made it to the main canyon, but I stayed high on the right to a class 3 drop at 58630, 50744 that got me down. I went up a short way to a fall NE of peak 6486. A cottonwood is sprawled over a large pool. Cattle don't make it that far. I went down canyon to another large pool and then I had cow trails to follow down to the exit canyon. I walked slickrock on the left side of it reading 59630, 51499 then near the head I took a left fork and topped out on the rim at 59263, 51480. 5 hours, 9 miles and the only strain is the 400 feet out and it isn't very steep. There are more ponderosa pines here than anywhere I've been in the Swell. Light cattle impact and none recently.  Posted 2026

31. THE RED LEDGES run for miles. The best part is near the river. A short loop can be done or a longer one way by going up Red Wash and on past Wilson BM. I did the latter. An easy 4wd road runs from Bellevue Flats below the rim to the river. I left my bike near the 15 on the topo and went on a bit over 2 miles to a flowing well. At the next wash I went left up it to a cow trail at N39 06410, W110 52291 and walked it to the river. Then to Red Wash and had firm walking up to a main fork. I went left then left up the fork on the north side of peak 5688. It's easy into the saddle but cattle can't make it. I went up the peak then the mesa to the north. It has a DIY gate at the NW ridge reading 07318, 52944. That would be the way down for the short loop. But I retraced back to the canyon then up it and got on the rim at 06399, 53095 and on to the BM. Then on to 05055, 54172 to get down. 5 and a half hours, 10 miles with 500 noticeable gain. It might be better to park at the river for the short loop. Posted 2026

32. SWAZY BENCHMARK el 6610 is the high point of Sids Mountain. A stock trail goes most of the way. The TH is a quarter mile south of point 5698 on the Little Wedge road. A wooden fence marks the spot. An old road goes down to a rim where a trail drops down at N39 03650, W110 50909. It goes along the stream and right away there is a good petroglyph panel high on the left on dark varnish. More are to the right. The stock trail climbs up at 03886, 50413 and goes up to 03833, 50233 then up a broad ridge. On top various cow trails can be followed to the Kofford cabin at 02287, 47670. I walked on south of the BM to a view on the rim of Virgin Canyon. Then to 02688, 46648 where I could get up to the BM. Then I headed for a petroglyph panel at 02743, 47392. Another one is a tenth mile past that then another a fifth mile on. I went on down canyon past potholes with tadpoles. A cow trail goes on a bit more to a waterhole with big tadpoles. On down from that is the biggest waterhole at 03194, 48055 just above the 6000 line. No cattle there. I went on down canyon then left on a faint trail at 03790, 48965 then to 03628, 49439 where I could get thru a minor cliff then on back to the trail. I took a shortcut at 03850, 50158 to cut a loop in the trail. 8 and a half hours, 15.5 miles and about 2000 gain. Long pants are needed along the stream in Salt Wash. No wading that day. This hike is taken from the Steve Allen book with rock art locations provided by Road Trip Ryan.   Posted 2026

Mountain Lion Defense

•  The death of Kristen Kovatch near Estes Park, CO was the straw that broke the camel's back. At best, she had a nail file for defense. The two California men in 2024 jumped up and down and threw everything they had at a lion. And it kept coming. I went on Amazon to find a knife to be easily carried on a backpack strap. I had a million dollars worth of knives in my cart before I came upon the Cold Steel Mini Leatherneck at barely over 20 bucks.  The double edge blade is agnostic. It can rip in either direction. I would instinctively stab rapid fire in soft tissue, the neck if possible. A 3 or 4 inch blade isn't going to instantly kill a lion, but how many stabs can he take? I would only need one poke from that nasty little blade and I'm heading for the tall grass. I've had this on a couple of hikes and forgot is was there. It will be a permanent fixture except for some barren desert excursions. I have not seen any tests on it to see what it would take to break the blade.

Mojave National Preserve

 

Nest on Wild Horse Mesa. She can get away with that since cattle are gone.

Vulcan Mine

⦁ Mojave Washboard Preserve would be a more suitable name as visitors soon find out. The road to Hole in the Wall campground is paved from I-40. There is water at the entrance and I had 2 bars of Verizon there as well as freebie campsites along the way. Posted 2026

⦁ WILD HORSE MESA 5600 has 3 stock trails up but no cattle for years . I went up the north one then walked the mesa south to another one at peak 1398. The easy 4wd Wild Horse Rd departs the paved Black Canyon Rd at mp . Go 3 miles to a campsite at point 1368. Subaru types and ebikes can make it. Walk NW to point 1444 and go south generally along a faded road. It will shrink to a trail at 02886, 27485  and top out in the east saddle of peak 1653. Then it's easy to the east summit where the reg is. I walked from there on the easy ground to the south trail at peak 1398 reading N35 00105, W115 24345. Along the way a spotty trail at 00114, 25845 helps out. The south trail goes down and turns south where I left it and headed down to my bike that I stashed NE of peak 1178 around mp 7. Nearly 5 hours and 9 miles with 1000 noticeable gain. Easy walking on the mesa. Hikers just doing the summit and back can use the road turning off the Wild Horse Rd from another point 1444. There was no closure sign. ALTERNATE DESCENT - I went back a second time and skipped the high point. When I topped out on the trail I headed down thru a gap east of point 1563 at 02027, 27501 then on to the rim. I walked it for 3/4 mile and I could see the trail coming up out of Beecher Canyon. I then headed for the north rim of Borrego Canyon and stayed on center down into a saddle then up thru a cliff at 00951, 25760. I walked on nearly 2 miles to 01518, 24040 where I could get down thru a cliff. But I saw I might get down by going a few feet more just past point 1466. I resumed on the main ridge going SE and stayed left around a minor bump then down to a saddle then dropped right to the guzzler road where I was camped. That took nearly 5 hours and 9.4 miles. The Borrego rim has never had cattle but had the best flowers . Posted 2026

⦁ TABLE TOP el 6181 is approached from Black Canyon Rd. Point 1581 is at mp 15. Cars can park there then a mtn bike works on a high clearance road for half a mile toward the peak. Then walk to N35 06523, W115 23587 north of peak 1602 and then duck under a fence at 06567, 23244. Go on to a trail with cairns at 06629, 22780. The rest is obvious. It goes parabolic near the top but can be zigzagged. Nearly 3 hours with 700 noticeable gain. Posted 2026

⦁ WOODS MOUNTAINS - various loops can be done from a campsite at the south end at point 1230. I went over the high point and back by way of Tortoise Shell Mtn. The road in leaves the Black Rock Rd at point 1239. It's a mile of smooth high clearance and good for mtn bikes. I walked up Rustler Canyon using the left bank.  At  N35 03144, W115 22237 is where  I went left up a bedrock drainage to a cliff then switched up to the right to get on the rim. I walked left of peak 1577 on a game trail and it goes on left of peak 1616 then up to the north saddle. I went on to the right side of the high point el 1704 and up it and back down. Then on and over peak 1702 and followed the ridges down to peak 1462. I call it Little Table Top. A trail goes up it at 03909, 20579. I then headed for Tortoise Shell Mtn. A trail at 03462, 20805 goes along the west side of peak 1403 then I got on a ridge at 03126, 20837 and walked to Tortoise Shell. I then retraced back down a little to get on the easiest ridge down and crossed Burro Canyon at 02153, 20790 then headed for the last trail on the north side of peak 1247. 7 hours, 10.6 miles with 2000 noticeable gain. Rocks aren't a nuisance until peak 1462 with Tortoise Shell being the worst of it. I would skip that peak next time and come back on trails on the banks of Burro Canyon. Posted 2026

⦁ EAST WOODS MOUNTAINS - an easy 4wd road circles around to the north. At point 1362 on the Black Canyon RD is where it heads NE for a mile and a half then left to point 1459 then east to the end at point 1287 in Woods Wash. Posted 2026

⦁ PINTO MOUNTAIN el 6150 is a good rim walk loop. Go north from Hole In The Wall to point 1603 where there is an option to take a shortcut road. It goes a mile to Cedar Canyon Rd and on north but closed there. I walked up it to the end at a wash then up a trail at N35 10977, W115 23277 to circle around the north side of peak 1754. I then walked the rim skirting a couple of peaks with a trail helping out then up to Purdy BM. I went down a little to 10833, 22302 where I could see my way down the north side then strolled back. 3 hours with nearly 1000 noticeable gain. Posted 2026

• EDGAR PEAK el 7160 has an interesting route from the west with nothing harder than class 3. From Kelso, cross the tracks and get on a left side dirt road immediately that parallels the highway. At about a fifth mile from the tracks is a 4wd road going left to Cornfield Spring. Most will be stopped at a steep spot after 4 and a half miles of easy 4wd. As of 2013, jeeps with lockers and fat tires could still make it and that was still the case in 2026. Or ride an ebike from there. In another mile the road makes a hairpin turn close to an agave pit at N34 58512, W115 34283 el 3400 at wash level. Park here. Hike up the broad wash left of the pit. It swings right then gets bouldery and steep before reaching a saddle at 57526, 32688 el 6060. Go left and up slightly to a break at 57514, 32643 and on around the right of a peak to saddles just before the climb up to the peak which is at 57336, 32186. It's the one on the right. Go up a right chute just before the saddle between the twin summits or go to the saddle then up.  On the return, there's an agave pit at 57546, 32930 el 6100 at a saddle west of the 6060 saddle. I went down the fork to the north but it's tricky and harder than just returning the way you came. Near the bottom I went to a colorful saddle at 57786, 32845 on the left. Then thru and over to the left wall and  down to a broad steep drainage that drops right down to the fork with the canyon I came up. 8 hrs, 20 minutes and 8 miles with 3700 gain, take long pants for very light brush. Boulders in the canyon are easy to negotiate. Add 45 minutes for the side trip to the agave pit at el 6100 and I can't remember why I walked out there in 2013 or took that risky route down. Add 300 feet and 45 minutes round trip if starting from the steep spot on the road. I didn't check Cornfield Spring, but water was flowing downstream from it as far as 58476, 34941 in April 2013. Another pit is at an overhang at 58485,34622 el 3300. Posted 2013, 2026

Wonderstone Wash Indian Trail

Pothole at the 2500 level on the ascent

Ring at the head of Wonderstone

Puddle at the big drop el 2350

View down Wonderstone from the big drop

Ring at the saddle el 20250

Peak 649

Near the end

 ⦁ This trail goes from highway 22 and up over a ridge then down Wonderstone. It's mostly within the boundary of Anza Borrego State Park. It's the most dramatic I've ever done and doubt it can be surpassed. I put a track on peakbagger under Marble Peak 3320. This trip report would only be needed as backup. Take highway 86 to Brawley Rd and drive to a gravel plant. Go south along it on an easy 4wd power road for nearly a mile and leave a vehicle at N33 21629, W116 02188. Ebikes and cycles can turn right up a wash there for another half mile. Then drive to mp 32.55 on S22 and walk a tenth mile to a smooth channel at 17973, 11202. Follow that to the west side of a hill and walk the channel along the base. Upon reaching the north side of the hill, drift right a little to get in the main channel of Palo Verde Wash where you'll see a million footprints. Go on up the wash thru point 18536, 11111 then on to the start of the trail at 18873, 10748 el 1350. The trail goes up along the rim of a side canyon and be sure not to miss where it crosses to the left side of the creekbed at the 1550 level. It goes on up steeply to the top of the ridge el 2000 then down to the bed of Smoke Tree Canyon el 1900. Go up the main canyon 400 feet as the crow flies and the trail exits right at cairns. It gets fuzzy, but be sure to be on it where it levels off  at 19430, 09720 el 2250. It's easy to follow to a creekbed where it vanishes. A pothole there had several gallons. Go up the bed for 300 feet and it exits left. The reading there is 19838, 09605 el 2500. It goes on to a saddle on the main ridge el 3150 then runs toward Rosa BM. It gets fuzzy and I dropped off it and down a ridge at 20493, 09839 then picked it up again at 20758, 09607. A rock ring is along the way at 20699, 09685. The trail goes on to 20895, 09359 then runs left of center at 20933, 09041 el 2480. I took the option to drop down and check for water in the canyon. There were some puddles and wet sand then a big drop. I went back on the rim there then down to where it gets skinny at el 2050. Some rock rings are there and I could see water below. I went down the skinny rim and soon the trail drops right down an obvious slope and bends left and hits bottom where the wash goes over a drop. A flat top boulder there has a grinding hole. The trail runs on the right bank to get past the fall and there is a sand slide. I didn't think that to be risky with a good stick, but a likely option is to get in the main arm of the canyon at about 20911, 08495.  I came up canyon that far on a previous hike if my GPS was reading correct. It's a smooth wash on out to the mouth and I stayed in smooth channels near center to 20950, 05151 then cut over to another channel at 20905, 05037 that took me to the west saddle of peak 649. A trail runs down a wash there and goes up on the left bank at 20811, 04653 then on to higher ground. I then moved left to 20978, 04202 where I could walk the rim of a wash on down to 21404, 03068 and then obvious the rest of the way. That took 8 hours, 15 minutes and nearly 14 miles. Noticeable gain is 2000. The hike is over 15 miles for a party with 2 cars. That hiking time is for a 70 year old. Hikers half that age should do it in half the time. The water I saw was from rain 2 weeks before. Be careful around those rings. Posted 2026 

Indian Trails of Indio Hills

Pushawalla Palms

The trail out of Pushawalla. It likely goes to Stubbe Spring at Joshua Tree.

 1. PUSHAWALLA PALMS LOOP - These are the best palms.  I started out on an Indian trail going to the palms from Dollar Rd to the north then went on to Hidden Palms and back on more trails. Where the pavement ends on Dollar Rd it's another half mile on high clearance dirt to a closure sign. Bikes could be locked to it. I got on the trail just past that at N33 50547, W116 15849 and walked it into the canyon. I walked the right bank a few feet then had to drop into the creekbed but it soon smoothed out. At the main wash I got on a faint road on the left bank and walked it the palms and dropped down the steep bank at 49545, 16848. The palms run a half mile with a stream and there is a trail at 49361, 17005 that goes up a gully onto the rim then thru more palms and on to Hidden Palms. I walked a signed trail thru those then detoured on an Indian trail at 49443, 18233 that goes to the flat north of peak 833. I turned north to a surprise Indian trail at 49880, 18165 that goes up to a modern trail on a rim. I walked that to 49684, 17671 then dropped left down a trail and across a wash and along the right side of a point to a trail at 49849, 17500. It goes up on the rim and stays along the edge at first then on to 50415, 16844 and then fades in another third mile. There I veered right into a wash at 50651, 16325 and up that for a tenth mile then across the last wash at 50657, 16034.  3 hours, 42 minutes and nearly 8 miles with easy grades. If I just wanted to do all the palms I would just walk one way from Dollar Rd down to Washington St. Posted 2025

2. PUSHAWALLA PALMS EAST RIM - a modern trail goes up from the palms to the east rim then a spotty Indian trail runs out to peak 834 and back down. Where the pavement ends on Dollar Rd it's another half mile on high clearance dirt to a closure sign. Bikes could be locked to it. I got on the trail just past that at N33 50547, W116 15849 and walked it into the canyon. I walked the right bank a few feet then had to drop into the creekbed but it soon smoothed out. At the main wash I got on a faint road on the left bank and walked it almost to the palms where a modern trail crosses the road and goes to 49588, 16743 then up to the rim where topo lines look like a dog. It goes on to a canyon then down it to the palms. But there is no need to go past the dog's nose and just head for the rim that leads to peak 834. Along the way is another modern trail at 49006, 16337. It seems to go down a canyon. It only runs 200 feet on the rim and fades then comes some survey junk. At 49133, 16649  the Indian trail shows up running low left. It goes past peak 834 to a point. A trail is to the left but it's safer to go straight north down the point to 49400, 16833 on the edge of a big side canyon then down to the palms. Then either slog back up the soft wash or get on the bank at 49549,  16850 to walk the old road back. Nearly 4 hours, 7 miles with 600 noticeable gain. A lot of good pavement on that east rim. Posted 2025

3. INDIAN PALMS LOOP - this starts near the visitor center. A TH is a third mile south of the center next to Squaw Hill . Park there and walk the shoulder toward the center for a few feet to a gate that is the trail to the palms in a canyon. At the last grove the canyon turns rocky. Either get on the left rim there or go up canyon and go up left to the trail at N33 50518, W116 17863. It goes 2/3 mile and fades at a clearing. I moved left and walked a little more then headed for the return trail at 50605, 17224. It soon splinters but I stayed on the rim to the left and walked the trail on down. It fades in rocks but I had no trouble walking the rim to the end then walked a wash along the base back to the starting trail. 2 hours. Posted 2025

4. PEAK 833 is south of the visitor center. A trail runs across the north flat. It goes up the rim of Thousand Palms Canyon at N33 49763, W116 18567. I parked a third mile west of it then walked to it and up to the top of the rim. Then I went a couple hundred feet toward the peak  to get on it again. I walked it a fifth mile along a lot of rock piles then followed cairns up to the peak and down a faint trail on the west ridge. 90 minutes, 350 gain. Another option would be to walk the trail to Hidden Palms then down to pavement. Shuttle needed for that one and there is a paved shoulder for bikes. Posted 2025

5. PALMS BENCHMARK el 1386 is easiest from the north but I chose the more scenic south canyon. Moon Shadow Dr heads straight for the canyon but they are trying to close it. So I came in on Desert Moon Dr then left on Burr Oak Rd and went around the edge of houses and out to a fence at a T. A local told me everybody drives to the east around the fence and up into the canyon. I took a left fork at N33 51632, W116 21802 then stayed left at main forks to 51975, 21820 where I went right and then stayed left to a ridge at 52059, 21792 that goes to the main ridge. An Indian trail runs the ridge to the summit and keeps going but gets dangerous past the summit. Hiking in from the fence would be a 5 mile round trip with 300 noticeable gain. I could have rode an ebike past the fence most of the way in. Posted 2025

6. MACOMBER PALMS have a rough trail in from the north. Happy Valley Rd goes south from Dillon Rd and in just over a half mile I parked and walked up a ridge at N33 49615, W116 13979 then on to the trail at 49220, 14041. It goes to a saddle then down canyon to the palms. At 48838, 14292 el 1200 the trail runs on the left bank then down a point and stays on the left bank then fades but is easy sand on down to the palms. I followed the low ground to the right past more palms then on to a trail at 48639, 16257. It goes over the rim into the next canyon which is the one I returned in. I stayed right at the first main fork and followed the forks that go along the south side of the eastern 16 on the topo. At 49564, 14729 there is a trail that I used to get back to the start. 3 and a half hours, nearly 8 miles. The only noticeable gain is 150 at the start. Easy but rocky in places. ONE WAY VERSION - keep going the Pushawalla Palms then a trail goes on to the visitor center. That would need an 8 mile shuttle, all paved. Posted 2024

7. PEAK 712 is west of the Macomber Palms. A modern trail goes over it. It took Coyote Song Way to the end of pavement then along the left side of a row of stumps then left and parked a tenth mile from the trail which is at N33 48022, W116 16755. 1 hour, 500 gain. Posted 2025

8. HERMAN MOUNTAIN el 1300 is at the Coachella Valley Preserve. A trail can be used to go one way over it. I parked on the Thousand Palms Rd at N33 51220, W116 18513 then coasted on my bike for 3 miles to the Willis Palms TH which is at the 380 line on the Thousand Palms Rd. At the palms a right branch of the trail reading 49545, 19770 goes up to the summit then down and then turns toward the visitor center. I left it there and walked to a faint road at 51175, 18664 that took me to my cycle. That took 2 hours, 15 minute with 1000 gain. Ending the hike at the visitor center should work but the area around there was closed that day. ALTERNATE DESCENT - follow the trail over the summit and down to the 1200 line then leave it and head down the ridge toward the north saddle of peak 972 then down the wash back to the start. Before the saddle I saw a trail at 50770, 19558 and it goes along the bank of the wash then fades. That's the route I chose that day. That descent needs no shuttle.  I put tracks on peakbagger. Posted 2024, 2025