Wasatch Plateau, Utah

A sign on Skyline Drive 7 miles south of highway 31

Black Mtn el 10782

The southern tip of Ferron Mtn. A trail runs on that.

Marys Nipple

The rim of South Horn Mountain is infested with fissures. A cow perished in one.

 

⦁ SKYLINE DRIVE runs 100 miles along the top of the plateau. Highway 31 is the best paved access. The section between highway 31 and highway 6, which departs 31 at mp 8.5, is graded with a lot of shady camps and some with a Verizon signal but not much hiking potential. The section running south from highway 31 at mp 13.5 goes for 75 or 80 miles to either I-70 or Salina and is mostly easy high clearance with just a few easy 4wd spots along the way. Cars can do the first 7 miles. The best plan is to take a week or two of dry weather and run the whole southern section in a 4wd. Utahmountainbiking.com has details about how to ride the route. An ebike with a spare battery might make it. A shorter ride would be to go down Ephraim Canyon. It's paved to el 8294. The first good water I saw on Skyline was passing under the road at the Cedar Creek tunnel near Lowry Top. Posted 2021.

⦁   SKYLINE DUAL SPORT RIDES - I rode my cycle north from 31 for 20 miles to a sign for Scofield. I took that road, which turned out to be easy 4wd, down to the town. It has a store with gas. Another ride I did was south from 31 on Skyline Drive which departs at mp 13.5. The first 7 miles is improved and good for cars then it's in the hands of a timber company that was grading from there. At about 28 miles or so from 31 I turned down a good road to Joe's Reservoir then took the good Miller Flat Rd back to 31 and then back to the start. That was about 70 miles. Posted 2021.

⦁ LOWRY TOP el 11136 has a trail, formerly a wagon road. Take Skyline Drive south from highway 31 for about 15 miles to a crappy road at N39 26722, W111 20377. Take that for half a mile to the end at the TH el 10600. A good spring is there and two trails. The correct one is to the left above the spring. It goes to el 10900 then it's an easy stroll to the reg at 25655, 19232. It's easy to walk the main ridge for a mile and a half to a cairn on the north summit at 26745, 19954 el 11101. Then retrace back to 26409, 19883 el 10950 then down to an elk trail at 26306, 19977 el 10650 that leads to the start. 2 hours, nearly 1000 gain, all easy. I could do this route in shorts. Posted 2021.

⦁ SOUTH TENT MOUNTAIN el 11285 is the high point of the plateau.  An ancient road up North Tent makes for an easy loop to both peaks. The road up Ephraim Canyon is paved to the Lake Hill Campground el 8294. A hiker drove a car on up to Skyline Drive then on to the peaks. Another way in is to come south from highway 31 on for 21 miles. A car could make the first 8 miles then ebike the rest. The old road up North Tent is at N39 24001, W111 22607 el 10750. It shows on the sat image and there is a Verizon signal there. It goes for 200 feet then angles to the right then back to the left and tops out  at el 11200 between the twin summits. I saw no reg or tent. It's easy to walk the main ridge to South Tent at 23529, 21458. Then retrace to the main saddle and drop to an elk trail at 23791, 21979 el 10650 that goes down to Becks Ditch. I filled at a good spring there reading 23763, 22045 el 10500 then walked the ditch back out. 2 hours, 11 minutes with 1200 gain, all easy. Some light brush. SANPETE BM el 11018 is not far south along Skyline. It's a short walk to the reg at 22455, 24260. Posted 2021.

⦁ WAGON ROAD RIDGE is one of the longer ridges branching off Skyline Drive. Turn onto FR2 at N39 17613, W111 26656. It goes 10 miles to a good view at the end of the ridge. 4wd is needed and it's mostly ebikeable. Posted 2021.

⦁ LAKE MOUNTAIN el 10560+ has an OHV trail to the top. Turn off Skyline Drive onto FR2328 at N39 14848, W111 27188. It ends in a third mile at a camp area then the OHV trail follows the ridge up. Easy hike. Posted 2021.

⦁ COVE MOUNTAIN el 10666 has a crappy road. I turned back in a mile. Posted 2021.

⦁ HELIOTROPE MOUNTAIN el 11130 is an easy hike one way from the north down to Skinners Reservoir. Take the good road from Twelvemile Campground and leave a vehicle or ebike on the west side of the reservoir where FR2265 forks left. Then drive north on Skyline Drive from the campground for .8 mile then go right on easy 4wd for a half mile to the end el 10450. It's easier footing to walk the base to a wooded slope then go up and walk easy tundra to the reg at N39 06983, W111 27232. Then walk a game trail on the main ridge to Heliotrope Point. It goes along the left side of peak 11009 then stays low on a wide open shelf along the right side of peak 10840+ then on to a safe looking pipe spring at 05970, 26650 el 10700. It's another third mile to Heliotrope Point then retrace a quarter mile and go down the big drainage toward the reservoir on a game trail. At bottom, go right along the base to a bulldozer track at 05753, 26772 el 9950 then to a game trail at 05738, 26885 el 9900 that leads a few feet to an old road that goes to a huge clearing. Just go down the clearing to the second vehicle. 3 hours, 20 minutes, maybe 600 strenuous gain. There is a tenth mile of light brush near the end. This is the best hike I found on the plateau. It's nearly pristine.  Running the crest to Ferron Mountain then down that trail looks feasible. The real trail drops down a canyon at 06700, 21743 next to point 10331 and meets FR2267. The topo shows a fake trail in the next canyon to the west. It would be an easy 12 mile shuttle on FR43 with an ebike when dry. Posted 2021.

⦁ FERRON MOUNTAIN el 10720+ is  covered with trails. Take FR43 along the south side to FR2267 at N39 05997, W111 21812. Go about 1.2 miles on easy 4wd to the end el 9800 at a canyon. A good trail goes up the left side of the canyon to the crest then cow trails lead to a trail at 06971, 22002 el 10500. It goes along the 10550 level to a hidden fork. The left fork reading 07163, 22530 is the fastest way. Leave that trail and go into a saddle at 07353, 23288 el 10650 and then it's another fifth mile to the high point where I found a rock chair but that's it. One option for the return is to run the crest to the south point using a manmade trail. Go over the top of peak 10567 then on to the trail at 05813, 20543 el 10450. It's easy to follow to the point at a cattleguard on FR314. An ebike there makes for an easy ride back for 3 or 4 miles. It's a 3 hour hike with 1000 gain to go up the peak and back the same way. Returning on the crest is about 5 hours with a shuttle which I didn't have and so it came out to 6 hours. Cattle, fences and terraces are eyesores that plague this hike. FR43 is a good road but for one 4wd spot north of Blue Lake.  Posted 2021.

⦁ MOUNT BALDY el 10918 is an easy one. Take Skyline Drive south from Twelvemile Campground for half a mile then turn on FR2257. That road ends in a third mile at el 10300 then go up an obvious elk trail angling up to the right then head for a better trail at N39 07111, W111 30059 el 10650. It goes up the south ridge then it's a stroll on a pristine plateau to the reg at 07578, 30608. 2 hours, 700 gain. Posted 2021.

⦁ BLOCK MOUNTAIN el 10782 is an easy one. FR2255 departs Skyline Drive on the west side of the peak. It goes half a mile to the SW saddle el 10500. Game trails at N39 04273, W111 29435 el 10550 go up to the summit plateau then it's a stroll to the summit at 04194, 29306. I couldn't even find a cairn. I took a direct route back down. 1 hour, 300 gain. Posted 2021.

⦁ WHITE MOUNTAIN el 10825 is miles long and who knows where the high point is. Leave Skyline Drive on FR161 at N39 03273, W111 30766. It's a decent road for 4 miles then it goes left up a short hill that needs 4wd. It goes on to a sharp right turn where a closed road heads toward BLACK MOUNTAIN el 10782. Walk that then move left across the drainage to a trail that makes it easy to get to the east side of the peak. Start up to the cliffs at 00605, 29450 and walk the base up to a class 2 gully that tops out at 00652, 29477. Then go left to the reg placed a year earlier. 80 minutes and about 300 noticeable gain. The road goes on to a closed right fork on the south rim that runs 2 miles nearly level to the east point of the mountain at 00573, 27057 el 10700. Great views there. Point 10825 at N38 59845, W111 29412 is what peakbagger has as the summit. A short spur road goes within 400 feet of it. Survey junk is there but no other sign of humanity. The 5 and and half miles of road here are ebikeable and that's half the fun. PEAK 11071 can be done on the drive out. Return to Skyline Drive and cross over it to FR1271. That road soon ends then it's a short hike to the summit. A new book and glass jar is needed for the reg. This has gotta be the easiest 11000 footer in the state. Posted 2021.

⦁ MARYS NIPPLE el 10984 has a popular trail up the north ridge. I used FR9 coming in from I-70 at the exit near mp 74. It's a decent road that runs north from I-70 for 13 miles to a T at FR1 which is Skyline Drive. A free campground el 7300 is about 5 miles in with a gushing spring. Cars can make it there then ebike the rest. I went right on FR1 for about 5 miles to a secret road at N39 03520, W111 33235. It's easy 4wd for a third mile to where the trail forks left at el 9800. The summit is at 02184, 34668. Just before there is a 6 foot high class 3 move. A narrow crack next to it might work for some. 3 hours, 1300 gain, the last 400 goes parabolic. BULL VALLEY  MOUNTAIN el 9318 can be done on the drive out. Drive back to FR9 but stay on FR1 another 4 or 5 miles to FR4, aka Water Hollow Rd, at a restroom. It's a decent road for a dozen miles to I-70. Along the way at N38 57062, W111 38979, next to peak 8336, is a smooth ATV trail that goes a mile and a half to a fence on the south ridge el 9000. A trail goes up along the left side of the fence to a log fence el 9150. An ancient road follows that fence to a gate and elk trail at 03153, 33833 el 9050. The trail goes up to a clearing then head for a gap in the scrub at 57905, 37264 el 9300 and the BM is another 200 feet ahead. 1 hour, a bit over 300 gain, some light brush. The ancient road connects to FR4 a mile north of the ATV trail and might be walkable. STEVES MOUNTAIN has an ATV trail too but I didn't have time this trip. Posted 2021.

⦁ ORDER MOUNTAIN el 9574 has a decent ATV trail switching up the west ridge by way of point 7610. Take Canyon Rd from the post office out of Mayfield for 1.7 miles to a sign for Twelvemile WMA then go south on a formerly graded road but now rutted. At N39 02961, W111 41710 el 6550, go left then take the next left to a fork at 03088, 40651 el 7000. Go right and then on to within a fifth mile of the summit. Ebikes could get to el 7000 but then it steepens and gets iffy. Posted 2021.

⦁ BEAVER CREEK ROAD - this 4wd road departs the Twelvemile Creek road near Mayfield. I rode my 125 up it past Woods Lake to Skyline Drive then went north to FR13 where I dropped down to Blue Lake then on to Henningson Reservoir and back up to Skyline Drive then down Twelvemile Creek road back to the start. The Beaver Creek road is the only one needing 4wd. Blue Lake is the best looking lake. FR32 is a jeep road that departs the Twelvemile Creek road at Spring Hill. I rode to Birch BM with no problem but the road up to Black Mountain is terrible. Posted 2021.

⦁ BLACK MOUNTAIN el 10900+ is on the north rim of Twelvemile Creek. An OHV trail runs the length of it but it's hard to get up the rim, so few do.  I could have drove a car out of Twelvemile on FR47 into the east saddle el 10132. That's too short a hike so I made a loop down the Black Hole. I started out on a faint logging road at N39 09165, W111 29975 el 10200. It goes along the base at 09155, 30301 then ends at el 10400. I then zigzagged up 400 feet to the main ridge then to the east point where the OHV trail ends. The high point is around there but I couldn't even find a cairn, likely because this peak isn't on any trendy lists. I walked the trail a bit over a mile then dropped to game trails in the Black Hole at 10080, 31761 el 10550. I stayed far right on the unsteepest trail. They all lead down to a murky lake at el 10200 where sheep graze. I walked the main trail on down to el 10000 then stayed on the right side of the drainage and soon FR1149 el 9400 came into view. I went down that to a T el 8950 where there could be two options. I could stay right on FR1149 a short way to the main road on Twelvemile Creek if I had an ebike stashed there. But I didn't so I went left at the T on FR1150 and on thru the Grove of the Aspen Giants. I've seen groves that good without the graffiti. Soon it opened up and I could see the Twelvemile road and I turned left going cross country for less than a fifth mile to a game trail at 08677, 30404 that goes level to FR47. I walked back on that then at el 9800 I shortcutted a switchback on an old road. That took 4 hours with about 2000 gain but the 400 near the top is the only strenuous part. There are some itchy plants but it's 95 percent shorts. FR47 goes on down Sixmile Canyon to Sterling but it's iffy for cars. Posted 2021.

⦁ BALD MOUNTAIN el 8461 has an OHV trail to the top. Take paved Ephraim Canyon road to FR51. A car can make FR51 to the east side of the peak where the trail is obvious. FR51 goes on to Camp Utibaca then branches off to the left where it becomes 4wd. It can be followed to Manti Mountain el 9275 but I was stopped by a quagmire where FR1092 forks north. I made a  U-turn and rode into the north fork of Manti Canyon and on up to Skyline Drive but hit a lot of bumpy little rocks on FR1115. Ebikes should make it to Manti Mountain. Posted 2021. 

⦁ HELL HOLE RIDGE - I took the Ephraim Canyon road to FR114 el 9000 then followed the topo to the north tip of the ridge. Then I came down the good but steep New Canyon road. This is all ebikeable with good brakes. No cattle is this area. Posted 2021.

⦁ HAYSTACK MOUNTAIN el 10381 - FR350 departs the Ephraim Canyon road at el 9950 and goes past Haystack then past MIDDLE MOUNTAIN and ends at the west tip of SOUTH MOUNTAIN. It's easy 4wd and ebikeable. Posted 2021.

⦁ MILKY FALLS el 8400 is in the south fork of Manti Canyon and shows on the topo. A trail along the main road at N39 14615, W111 31377  leads a tenth mile to the falls. No big deal but it's an excuse to take an ebike ride from Manti. Posted 2021.

⦁ MONUMENT PEAK el 10452 has a road all the way. Take highway 264 to mp 10.7 at the county line. Turn south on a graded FR18 and go about 8 miles to a 4wd road on the left that cuts back a third mile to a repeater on the summit at N39 36872, W111 10579. FR18 goes on 2 miles then an easy 4wd road continues for 2 and a half more miles to the end at peak 10185. I rode back to the highway and down to mp 15.3 where highway 96 goes to the town of Clear Creek. At the edge of town I turned on graded Barn Canyon Rd and that took me to Nuck Woodward Canyon. I followed a good high clearance road down that to highway 31. Posted 2021.

⦁ CANDLAND MOUNTAIN el 10367 has a good trail from the north. Take highway 31 to the TH el 8950 at mp 21.2 then walk it to a saddle a quarter mile before the peak. Get off that trail and follow a game trail up the ridge to the reg at N39 33841, W111 12542. 3 hours, 1400 gain, good views. Posted 2021.

⦁ EAST BENCHMARK, SEELEY MOUNTAIN - these peaks have trails within 400 feet of the summits. The Horse Canyon Trail runs between them and connects highway 31 to the graded Miller Flat Rd. I used the latter TH because it's 1200 feet higher. It's near where the topo shows at N39 29300, W111 14440 el 8800. It goes to the main saddle el 9600 between the peaks. A secret trail then runs north and splits. I stayed right because it's the most used. At 30138, 13052 el 9950 I left the trail and went up an open slope and angled left then right and on to the summit at 30331, 12889 el 10360. I retraced to the main saddle and followed the trail south to a fork at 29198, 13127 el 10000 then stayed right. The trail fades at el 10400 but not needed to the BM at 28526, 13019 el 10743. That took 4 hours, 41 minutes with 2800 gain. The only water was a stream crossing the trail at el 9200. I could do this in shorts. The trail is open to mtn bikes but only the first mile is easy. I saw a couple at el 10000 riding south but that's out of my league. Posted 2021.

⦁ SOUTH HORN MOUNTAIN el 8665 is south of Joes Valley Res. Drive south on a paved road along the west side of the reservoir. It turns graded then keep going on it for 11 miles or so to FR21 reading N39 11265, W111 14319. There is just one main road going south to the rim in a bit over 5 miles to a stand of pines that make for outstanding camping. It's easy 4wd and ebikeable but for a half mile or so of sand. The road goes along the rim for half a mile then fades and it's an easy stroll for half a mile to the south point. A 1921 marker is there at 07064, 12334. The high point is the other direction. It's an easy rim walk to it at 08071, 11399. I couldn't find anything. The best part is to keep walking east a half mile toward peak 8575 to a flat with the best views. A cow went out there but never returned. I saw a skeleton in a fissure at 08092, 11027. NORTH NORN MOUNTAIN el 9665 has a logging road up the west rim of The Cap that makes for an easy loop. Stay on the main road for 1.3 miles past FR21 to FR20. Go left on smooth 4wd that ebikes should make. The road tops out at a T el 9050 in nearly 2 miles. I parked there but should have turned west for another fifth mile. I walked from the T for .6 mile to FR2133 then went up that and got on the logging road at 12918, 13758 el 9250. It goes under Cap BM then north to get on top. I then came back to the west rim and walked to the BM at 13016, 14359 el 9630. I then had the easiest rim walk under the sun for a mile to the reg at 13092,13181. I dropped off to the east and back to the start. 2 hours with 600 noticeable gain. A detour to the north point el 9550 of The Cap would be a mile and a quarter each way. The main road goes on east 5 miles to towers on the rim with great views. Posted 2021.

San Pitch Mountains, Utah

Crest road and Big Baldy

Big Baldy summit

Maple Canyon

M

 ⦁ The best way to see this range is to run the crest road with a 4wd or dual sport  cycle. The road is easy 4wd when dry except for a rubbly section north of Wales but that can be bypassed. Use an app like peakbagger to view topo maps. There is a Verizon signal and so sat images are available too. Part of the southern section goes thru private land but passage is allowed. It's all cattleguards but for one gate on the whole crest road. Get cracking before the land owners change their minds. Wales has no gas but Levan and Fountain Green do. Posted 2021.

⦁ CREST ROAD -  I got on it just north of Gunnison at mp 1.2 on highway 28. At 3.3 miles in there is a crude road going left to the NE saddle el 5900 of THE CATERPILLAR. It's a short but steep walk to the summit at N39 13085, W111 48622. A higher summit NE of the saddle might also be a part of The Caterpillar. Another 1.3 miles up the crest road is a main fork that leads to Mellor Benchmark el 6672. Go right and stay on the main road for 1.7 miles then an easy 4wd road goes up the south ridge for nearly 2 miles to survey junk at 14160, 45936. The crest road took me thru private land to a fork at 22641, 45514 el 8300. Left is the crest road and it goes about 11 miles to the main road connecting Wales to Levan. It's easy 4wd. Going right at the fork takes you into the southern Maple Canyon and down to the west side road. Near the mouth there are power lines going up a side canyon. A good road goes up that canyon  for about 7 miles to towers on Barton Peak el 8457. A gate at 20194, 46257 el 8100 might be locked but there were no signs against walking the last mile. Some of this goes thru private land but that wasn't gated. That road also goes thru the Maple Canyon WMA where an easy 4wd road goes NE for a bit over a mile to peak 7008. There is a camp spot there with a hell of a view. The crest road goes on north less than a mile to the south ridge of BIG BALDY el 8775. It's an easy walk up the ridge. The next peak of interest is BIG MOUNTAIN el 7900+. Mostly smooth FR1024 departs the crest road at 28518, 41948 and goes nearly 5 miles to it with shady camps at the end.That's a good looking grassland out there with no cattle. A white point below the end of the road has a view into an abyss. Another road departs the crest road at the same spot as FR1024 and it goes 2 miles to peak 7775. Both roads are good for ebikes. Next, the crest road comes to FR101 that connects Wales to Levan. The crest road continues north as FR69 but 8 miles north of FR101 is a rubbly stretch that's tricky for two wheelers. It's better to bypass by dropping to Wales and coming back up in Maple Canyon on FR66. That's better scenery anyway. There is a safe looking pipe spring along FR101 at 29031, 40813 el 6850. The crest road goes past MORONI BENCHMARK then peak 9548 also has a road. The crest road goes on to the east ridge of the SALT BENCHMARK el 9997. It's a short walk to the reg at 39886, 44590. Then retrace nearly 5 miles and go down Log Hollow. The best water I saw is Cool Spring there at 37071, 42501 el 9050. The road goes on down to highway 28 at mp 44.8. Posted 2021.

⦁ MAPLE CANYON is a mecca for climbers and it's hard to find a camp spot. The trails are shown on the topo and there is a map at the TH. I hiked up the middle fork then came down the left fork but that fork is overgrowing at the upper end. I made it in shorts OK but take a machete and chainsaw to be on the safe side. It took 3 hours. There is a parking fee but it ain't used for trail maintenance. BOX CANYON is another attraction here but I skipped it. Posted 2021.

⦁ HORSE HEAVEN MOUNTAIN el 8475 has a fire break and game trails up the NW ridge. Take 100 South out of Levan to a dam a half mile downstream from the Chicken Creek Campground. Walk across the creek below the dam and then up an ATV trail for half a mile into Maple Hollow. Start up the ridge at N39 31832, W111 46829 el 6300 and keep going up the ridge to 30757, 47753 el 8200 where you stay low left of center to avoid a thicket. Return to the ridge at 30670, 47620 el 8400 then on to the cairn at 30671, 47500. Nearly 5 hours, 2500 gain, rarely steep. Some light brush for now. But like rust, brush never sleeps so get cracking while you can. The campground is free but covered with cow shit. PIGEON CREEK is the next canyon to the north but it's sunny and boring and even more cow shit. Posted 2021.

⦁ PEAK 8360 is SW of Horse Heaven Mtn with towers on it. Take highway 28 south from Levan to mp 26.3 and follow a smooth road for nearly 6 miles to the summit. Cars make it half way then it's too steep. DEEP CREEK is on the north side of the peak. A good road starts at mp 26.5 and goes 4 miles then it's an ATV trail on to the crest. Some good camps are along the road and no cattle. Posted 2021.

⦁ CEDAR HILLS HIGH POINT el 8040 has an easy 4wd road to the east saddle el 7260. Drive out of Fountain Green on the graded Big Hollow Rd to the 4wd road at N39 39529, W111 33281 el 6500. It goes 2 and a half miles to the saddle and is ebikeable. Then hike up the east ridge staying left around some scrub. It tops out then go left 300 feet to survey junk at 37874, 32600. 90 minutes, 800 gain, some light brush near the summit. Posted 2021.

Fish Lake Area, Utah

Peculiar sign near Emerald Lakes

Emerald Lakes

One of the pristine meadows along Tasha Creek

Mount Marvine left and Fish Lake Hightop on the right.

The GWT is one of the smooth ATV trails around

 Mount Terrill. 

The trail on Fish Lake Hightop is open to mtn bikes. It's good most of the way.

  

⦁ Highway 25 goes north from highway 24 at mp 39 and goes past Fish Lake and two more lakes then on to highway 72. About midway along is where newly paved FR640 goes 28 miles to I-70 at the Gooseberry exit. Countless camp spots are along the way and paved pullouts that RVs can use. Fish Lake has a secret dispersed camp area on the south shore next to the big sign marking the boundary of the rec area. The rest of the campgrounds around the lake have a fee. Cattle are fenced out. Loa has a good supermarket and Family Dollar. Posted 2021.

⦁ MYTOGE MOUNTAINS HIGH POINT el 10311 has an easy route up the west side. Drive north a short way on the highway from Mill Meadow Reservoir to the sign for the Mytoge Mountain Rd. Follow that good road for miles to a fork with a sign for Crater Lakes. The remaining 5 miles is tricky for cars but mtn bikeable. Some 4wd spots are encountered at the lakes then the road ends at a fence el 9700 where foot trail #366 descends to the north end of Fish Lake. That would be another way in.  I walked along the right side of the fence to where it turns right then went to N38 35263, W111 38634 then 35256, 38571 then 35258, 38486 then 35214, 38312 then the reg and survey junk are at 35197, 38069. I left cairns and a track on peakbagger and so all the coordinates might not be needed. 2 hours, 600 gain, all easy. I had easy pathways around fallen trees. A quarter mile before the peak I crossed an abandoned trail but it's no good for this hike. The Mytoge Rd goes on 10 miles and meets highway 25 at mp 4.8 but it's not as smooth. LONG VERSION - starting at the Lake Creek TH el 8850 along  highway 25 makes for a 2 mile hike to the fence el 9700. A trail behind the restroom goes along the bank then you have to wade the creek to the trail on the far bank that goes to Porcupine Draw. Then at the "e" on the map there is a secret fork that goes up to the fence. I returned later and made a loop using trail #166 that goes to the Crater Lakes then down #166 and that took 3 and a half hours but I skipped the peak. Posted 2021.

⦁ HILGARD MOUNTAIN, U M PLATEAU - these two can be done on the same day. Take highway 25 to the east side of Johnson Valley Reservoir and turn on graded FR15. Go about 6 miles to a main fork where a sign points left to Upper U M Creek. Go left there on FR43 for half a mile to a sunny camp area with a good restroom. Cars could make it there then do both peaks with an ebike. The road goes on and becomes easy 4wd then after 3 miles it turns into an ATV trail that is ebikeable when dry. Go a mile and a third up the trail to a spotty elk trail at N38 43852, W111 37069 el 10100. A tenth mile before that I filled bottles at gushing springs. I walked the trail to 44109, 36848 then 44205, 36707 then at 44313, 36419 el 10700 I came to the rim and walked close to it to survey junk at 44006, 35482 el 11100. Just past that is an old sign post. 2 hours, 1000 easy gain. For HILGARD, return to FR15 and go another 4 miles or so to a faint logging road at 42007, 32692 el 10150. The last mile is easy 4wd. A hiker trail goes up it to 41399, 32700 el 10600 where the trail soon fades, but elk trails go up and angle to the right then comes the final ridge which is rocky tundra. The reg, approved by the Postmaster General, is at 41046, 32632 el 11533. 3 hours, 1400 gain, some very light brush. FR15 goes on to meet highway 25 at mp 23.9. Along the way, FR16 branches off and goes down to I-70. It's a decent road and about 4 miles along that is where rocky FR217 forks to the right and goes half a mile to the north ridges el 8800 of JOHNS PEAK el 9540. It's an easy hike to the reg on rocky tundra. Posted 2021.

⦁ EMERALD LAKES el 10260 are tucked in on the east side of U M Plateau. There was a trail once upon a time but now it's better to walk elk trails thru meadows. Take highway 25 to the east side of Johnson Valley Reservoir and turn on graded FR15. Go about 8 miles to FR1594 at N38 42185, W111 34281. That road is closed in a quarter mile at a green gate. Walk it to another green gate with a cattle poison sign. Go left along the fence to the next gate where a trail starts. But it goes off course and fades, so it's better to walk to a clearing at 42774, 34766 then to 42946, 34826 then 43033, 34943 then on to the east lake at 43186, 35172. I was able to walk the east shore for a fifth mile. I didn't try for the other lake. It takes an hour to the lake with 800 easy gain. Some light mosquitoes. This is best in late summer when meadows are dry. Posted July 3, 2021.

⦁ FISH LAKE HIGHTOP el 11633 has a 4wd road up the south ridge that nearly everyone uses for this peak. There is an option to hike a trail up the north ridge then down the trail along Tasha Creek. Leave a vehicle at the Tasha TH at mp 1.3 on FR640. Then drive to mp 7.2  and turn on the Cold Springs Rd. Stay left at main forks for the first mile and a half then go right at a main fork for the remaining 2 miles or so to Daniels Pass el 10242. The last mile is steep enough to need 4wd and is ebikeable. A kiosk is at the TH. The trail enters the forest at N38 40925, W111 42510 el 10350 and easy to follow all the way to the road el 11400 on the east side of the high point. Cairns lead from there to a break in the cliffs at 36377, 44375 then on to the reg at 36482, 44362. Then retrace down to Tasha Spring at 36404, 44141 el 11400. It's likely safe but I would filter it. The trail is a few feet to the north on the map but all I found was easy tundra. It can be walked down the drainage to 36381, 43618 el 11100 where the trail appears at the edge of the forest. It goes past several meadows that are as good as I've ever seen. Cattle have never been above el 9500 in this canyon as far as I can tell. At el 9220 there is a sign pointing left for a trail going a quarter mile to the Tasha TH. That took 6 hours, 20 minutes with 1400 easy gain. The app showed 14 miles. Light mosquitoes are along the Tasha Trail. This is one of the best summer hikes in the state. It's a good idea to take a phone with the topo in case miscreants knock down the cairns on the north ridge trail. MTN BIKE VERSION - the north ridge trail is open to bikes and well suited to them but bikers don't know about it. Rocks are rarely a problem and fallen trees, mostly below 11200, aren't numerous enough to be a deterrent. I would ride up the south road then down the north trail. Cars can make it to Hancock Flat el 10000. BOOBE MOUNTAIN el 10760+ is nearby. Drive on thru Daniels Pass on the main road for 2 miles then the high point is a fifth mile north at 42139, 43575. The main road ends at private land but a bad OHV trail drops down to Broadhead Lakes. It smoothes out at the lakes then goes on to a T at FR56 and that road goes back to the highway.  Posted 2021.

⦁ MOUNT MARVINE el 11610 has a decent route from U M Pass. Take FR640 to mp 3.8 and turn on a good road that goes 2 and a half miles to the pass el 10500 with good camping. A secret hiker trail at N38 40813, W111 38091 goes right of center up the ridge. It fades then I walked a passage at 40516, 38295 el 10950 and on to 40404, 38353 el 11100. I stayed in the trees on easy paths and then to minimize walking on rocks, I went up the east slope  to 40092, 38384 el 11200 and followed the easiest ground to the summit ridge about a tenth mile south of the summit at 40026, 38460 el 11600. A hiker trail goes left of center to the north side of the summit block where a class 3 stairway goes up to the reg at 40094, 38466. 3 and a half hours, 1100 gain. I rode my 125 east from the pass on a smooth ATV trail then hit the GWT at U M Creek. I went north over the divide and came back to the highway at Twin Ponds camp area. Rocks were rarely an issue. Posted 2021.

⦁ GATES LAKE - a good road leaves FR640 at mp 9.7 and goes to the lake but the last bit is steep. A restroom and tables are there. The first mile has camps with a Verizon signal which makes them hard to get. An ATV trail goes down from the lake to FR640 near Harves Reservoir. It has rocks but not bad. Posted 2021.

⦁ MOUNT TERRILL el 11547 is an easy tundra hike from the north. Take FR640 to mp 10 and turn on a 4wd road el 10500 that is mtn bikeable. Follow that for about a mile and a half then go left up to a repeater el 10850. An obvious trail runs toward the peak and fades in a saddle el 11000. Just stay right around a minor bump then on to N38 43136,  W111 39150 el 11250 then 43040, 39000 el 11250 and finally and elk trail at 42746, 38926 el 11450 goes up to the west side then it's a tenth mile to a repeater on top. 3 hours, less than 1000 gain, all easy. Good camps are along the 4wd road. Posted 2021. 

⦁ SALINA RESERVOIR is a camp area along FR640 at mp 12.5. It has a restroom. Cold Spring and Twin Ponds are along the next couple of miles and have restrooms. Gooseberry Campground is at mp 18.8 and is the only fee area along FR640. At mp 22 there is a large gravel parking area with a restroom. I-70 is at mp 28 and there is a free campground just to the east on the south frontage road at the GWT TH. Posted 2021.

⦁ FLAT TOP MOUNAIN el 8638 has a good ATV trail most of the way and it's ebikeable. Turn off FR640 at mp 14.8 and take the ATV trail at the end of the road. It goes across Niotche Creek to a fork. Stay left to a manmade foot trail at N38 48389, W111 35937. It goes toward the summit then veers left so get off for the last fifth mile thru light brush to the cairn at 48555, 35552. This walk takes less than an hour with hardly any gain. I followed the smooth ATV trail north down into Aspen Hollow then back to Niotche Creek. It goes up along the right bank of that then meets the gravel Browns Hole Rd and that goes back to FR640 next to Gooseberry Benchmark. This peak is mainly an excuse to take good ride. Posted 2021.

⦁ GOOSEBERRY BENCHMARK is 9313 is an easy one for anybody with an ebike or ATV. Take FR640 to mp 16.3 and turn on a good road. Go a third mile then left on an ATV trail. It goes a mile to the NW side el 8900 of the peak. Walk cow trails to a trail in aspen at N38 48570, W111 39220 el 9050. Go up and stay along the edge of the aspen to the reg at 48473, 39069. 40 minutes, 400 gain, some light brush. Posted 2021.

⦁ THOUSAND LAKES MOUNTAIN el 11306 has a lot of trails but the easiest is the one from Snow Lake. Take highway 72 to mp 11.5 and turn on a graded road. Stay right at main forks, except the one at Elkhorn Campground, for over a dozen miles to a fork at N38 24836, W111 27544 el 10500. Go right for a mile to a gate then another tenth mile where the trail crosses the road el 10700. Good camping there and some cars would make it. I followed the trail up then the summit is at 25018, 28754 with a reg approved by the Postmaster General. But I saved that for later and stayed on the trail to Flat Top Spring at 26217, 28940 el 11050. A pipe feeds into 2 aluminum troughs and 2 trails descend the rim there. I then went north on the trail to where it bends right then took a left fork there reading 26615, 28531 that took me thru the trees then I had a bald rim to walk on for nearly half a mile to the north point of the plateau. I then retraced back south to the summit then back to the start. That took 3 and a half hours and the only noticeable gain is the 400 feet up the trail. Mosquitoes were light. The main road goes on another 3 miles to Chaffin Spring but turns rocky after 2 miles or so. Sand Creek Spring produces a good stream crossing the road and there's no point in going past there. That's the biggest stream I saw. The roads here are good for cycles and ebikes. But one bad road is the signed spur road to Deep Creek Overlook. The first campground is nearly 3 miles in from the highway and it's free then Elkhorn but it has a fee. The last one is tiny and free at 26318, 27785 el 10500 and there are countless dispersed sites. Grazing is very light in the whole area. I saw several lakes but couldn't find the other 990 lakes. Posted 2021. HENS HOLE PEAK el 10860 has a logging road up the south ridge. It's a good one to do on the drive out. At 28407, 27613 el 9885 is where FR203 branches off from the graded road. It's 7 miles in from the highway and there's a good camp there. Go up FR203 for a third mile on easy 4wd to a logging road blocked by berms at 28396, 27918 el 9950. Walk it to a long clearing then when it steepens there's a lucky gap in the aspen making it easy to move right of center then on up to the reg at 29216, 28496. 90 minutes, 600 strenuous gain. Posted 2021.

Boulder Mountain, Utah

The view from Bluebell Knoll

Pleasant Lake

Oak Creek Reservoir

Circle Lake

 ⦁ Boulder Mountain is so huge it deserves a page by itself. Some 60 square miles on top are near the 11000 foot level. The best hiking is the east rim accessed by highway 12. A visitor center at mp 106.7 has free maps and trail guides. Cheap campgrounds are along the highway and countless dispersed areas. I was getting a Verizon signal at points along the highway and when hiking the rim. Loa has a Family Dollar and the best supermarket. Torrey and Boulder Town have smaller stores and all have gas. Most trails are shown on the USGS topo maps. An app like peakbagger is essential to have the maps on a phone. Posted 2021.

⦁ BLUEBELL KNOLL el 11317 is the high point of Boulder Mtn. Take highway 24 south from Bicknell for 2 and a half miles and turn on the paved Hatchery Rd. Pavement ends in nearly 4 miles then stay on the main road and keep left at main forks for 20 miles then the summit is a fifth mile away at N38 09561, W111 30009. A gate el 10650 is at the last 3 miles and is locked in winter. Cars will have trouble with the last 3 miles but high powered ebikes should work. The roads are too bumpy for any extended bike riding. Posted 2021.

⦁ LOST LAKE el 9600 is south of Teasdale. The graded Donkey Reservoir Rd leaves town at N38 16367, W111 27588. In a bit over a mile it crosses the national forest boundary and becomes 4wd. It's hard packed with no major issues. At about 3 miles in from pavement go right at a fork then left at the next to the TH reading 15063, 29399 el 8400. The trail goes thru a burn area then at about half an air mile from the start is a fork el 8800 where the trail splits but it comes back together just before Lost Lake. I stayed left to Lost Lake then came back on the other trail which goes by the Bulberry Lakes then back to the fork el 8800. It took 90 minutes to the lake and the same for the return. The lake is at 13693, 30730. Gain is about 1300 and some is steep. Only the last half mile didn't burn. This is a popular trail in spite of the burn. A 38 year old man started the fire on purpose in 2012 and spent some time in jail. Posted 2021.

⦁ BLIND LAKE el 10233 is 9 miles south of Torrey. Various loops can be done. I did one to Donkey Point then walked the the rim to the trail at Fish Creek Point. Take highway 12 to mp 118 and turn on the graded North Slope Rd. Go 6 miles to a main fork el 8650. Shady creekside camps are around there. The left fork is a bad road that goes to Beaver Dam Reservoir. The right fork is easy 4wd that goes 2 and a half miles to the Blind Lake TH el 9794 where there is room to camp and a Verizon signal. I walked the trail to the lake and took a right fork at N38 10812, W111 26311 el 10250 that has no sign. It goes along the north shore then a signed fork points to Green Lake. I took that to the Donkey Pt trail at 11300, 26854 el 10350. I walked that up to the point then left it and walked the rim to the high point el 11200 with a good view. I then retreated from the rim to cross a minor drainage at 10409, 27373 el 11050 and then I should have stayed in the open but snow forced me back to the rim. I had to weave a lot of fallen trees to get to the trail descending the canyon at Fish Creek Point reading 08746, 26109 el 10900. The trail goes down past a 20 foot fall at el 10400 then to the Beaver Dam Res road where I went left then across the dam and followed the Wildcat Trail back with some uphill. That took 8 hours and the app said 2600 gain and 12.7 miles. I might save an hour next time by staying in the open on the mountain top. Mosquitoes were light and I didn't see any on the mountain top where there was a lot of little ponds and lakes. Trails are rocky but not many fallen trees to hop. The topo shows the trails. Posted June 2, 2021.

⦁ CHOKECHERRY POINT el 10770 is on the east rim of Boulder Mtn. A loop can be done using the rim trail to connect to the Rock Creek Trail. Leave a car on highway 12 at mp 12.8 where FR287 meets it. Then take highway 12 to mp 106.8 and turn on a decent dirt road and proceed to the TH at N38 06976, W111 20350 el 8750. The steep trail goes up along North Creek and joins a bad OHV trail at el 9882 then follows that to the rim where a sign points to Chokecherry Point which is at 08233, 21065. The rim trail goes on past the point then at point 10881 the trail splits and I didn't see it. I was on the fake trail on the north side and had to come back to the real one on the south side of the point like the map shows. Shortly I had a view on the rim at 08910,22561 el 10750. I could see a shelf just below that leads to a drainage. A few more feet ahead there is an easy way down to the shelf then I walked it to the drainage at 08923, 22608 el 10700. Then I went down the right side of the drainage until a rock outcrop got in the way. I went right around that on steep dirt and on down to el 10200 where a lot of fallen trees blocked the way. I easily went around the right side of that then left around a pond then I hit Rock Creek Meadow. I walked the right edge then that fizzled and I cut over to the trail at 09333, 22507 el 10050. It was easier to descend off the rim than I had hoped for. The trail had just been cleared down to where the Wildcat Trail crosses at el 9400 but is was easy to step over logs and soon it's an OHV trail. I stayed on it until .38 mile from FR287 which I then shortcutted to at 10968, 21520 el 8150. Then I had a short stroll to the highway. That took 6 and a half hours with about 2000 noticeable gain. Snow was the only water until Rock Creek and snow lingers on the descent drainage. I saw no mosquitoes. The trails are on the topo. It might work better to start this hike on the highway at point 8854 and go up to the OHV trail. Posted June 3, 2021.

⦁ CHOKECHERRY OHV TRAIL starts at mp 109 on highway 12. It's a nasty one but the only motorized route up the east rim. I saw God turning back on it. That's how bad it is. Posted 2021.

⦁ THE TERRACE TRAIL is south of Chokecherry Point. A loop can be done using the rim trail. Take highway 12 to mp 106.4 and turn on the Pleasant Creek road. It's easy 4wd for the first mile to a turnaround at N3806290, W111 21200 el 9000. Serious 4 wheelers and mtn bikers can go the remaining mile and a half to the end at the Meeks Lake TH el 9350. The Terrace Trail branches off to the right but I was using that for the return. I stayed on the Meeks trail up the canyon to the rim el 10650 then followed the rim trail north toward Chokecherry Point. The trail merges with a logging road then leaves it at 07531, 21992. That would be easy to miss but I was on the lookout because I knew they would try and trick me. At 08040, 21365 there is a witness Tantlus BM pointing to Chokecherry Point that is a third mile away. A fifth mile beyond that is the OHV trail that leads down to the Terrace Trail at 07648, 20917 and then I followed that back to the start. 5 and a half hours for the loop and I started at the TH. The gain to the rim is 1300 then some minor dips are on the rim trail. That trail is mostly a series of cairns, blazes and cut logs. It has a lot of smooth walking and no recent grazing. The Terrace Trail goes thru aspen but has heavy grazing. Cattle weren't there on June 5. This loop could be done starting at the North Creek TH which has a better road but is lower. Or just go up the Pleasant Creek road and take the Terrace Trail and come down the North Creek trail. That would be great in autumn when colors are turning. Posted 2021.

⦁ PLEASANT CREEK FALLS el 10400 drains thru the rim of Boulder Mtn a third mile SE of Pleasant Lake. A loop can be done up the Meeks Lake Trail then down Pleasant Creek.  I started at the Meeks Lake TH el 9350 as described above and followed the trail to the rim then went left. Before the lake there is a fork but I missed it and went to the north side of the lake. I corrected by walking the shore to the trail at N38 06843, W111 24057 el 10700 on the south side then followed it on to Pleasant Lake. Just past there I came to a rim of a gorge at 05514, 24790 el 10650. I could see a route down into the gorge right below me so I used that but it would be easier to use the route in view on the opposite side of the gorge. As I came to the lip of the fall I could see a cairn on the rim to my left, indicating someone already had this idea. I went over to it then down a gully to the base of the fall. Then I walked level on the right bank to get to a slope leading down to the forest and on to a spring at 05635, 24469 el 10100 with the safest looking water on the hike. Soon there are fallen trees in the way so I moved to the left bank of the main creekbed and followed elk and cow trails. At 05645, 24256 I moved to the right side of the canyon floor then when that was blocked by deadfall I moved left to a meadow at 05656, 24092. I followed the easy ground to 05728, 23964 and made a hard left to get on a real trail. Then it was just easy meadows to a jeep road at 06016, 23286 that goes back to the start. 6 hours for the loop. The gain to the rim is 1300 then there are minor dips on the rim trail. I left a lot of cairns. SHORT VERSION - just going up from below and back down the same way takes less than 4 hours. A third of an air mile beyond the Meeks Lake TH is a sign pointing left to the falls. It's an old road that fades in meadows along Pleasant Creek. I just followed the meadows until the forest closed in then I had cow and elk trails to follow. I moved to the far left at N38 05640, W111 24136 el 9850 then came back to the right bank at 05682, 24305 then  weaved on up to 05685, 24405 el 10000. I walked along the right bank there then got in the creekbed for 250 feet to get on the left bank at 05648, 24490 el 10100 and stayed on it to 05548, 24624 el 10350 where I could see the falls a few feet ahead. There was a small flow 40 or 50 feet high. 4 hours with 300 noticeable gain. I could do this in shorts. Cattle have ruined the meadows. A whole herd froze to death in there. But grazing may be on hold because fallen trees are blocking access for cattle and no one is cutting them. Let's hope so. Posted June 6, 2021.

⦁ LOWER BOWNS RESERVOIR el 7400 has a good road. Turn off highway 12 at mp 105.8 then it's 3 or 4 miles. Along the way is a sign pointing to Jorgensen Flats. That road goes 16 miles to connect to the paved road in Capitol Reef NP. It has a few 4wd spots but nothing major. Posted 2021.

⦁ OAK CREEK RESERVOIR el 10100 has a steep road. Turn off highway 12 at mp 105.3 then it's nearly 3 miles. It's hard packed until the last half mile. Posted 2021.

⦁ FR180 leaves highway 12 at mp 100.8 el 9600 then goes a dozen miles and comes back to the highway at the Oak Creek Cg el 8864 which is at mp 104.9. It morphs into FR169 along the way. It's good for cycles and ebikes because it's mostly hard packed but does get bumpy. Good views. Posted 2021.

⦁ BOWNS POINT el 10900+ has a trail. A one way hike can be done up that then down the Behanin Trail. Leave a car or ebike on highway 12 at mp 106.4 then drive to mp 100.9 el 9600 and take an easy 4wd road for 1.2 miles to Sunflower Flat. Walk to the trail at N38 03193, W111 20638 el 10000 and don't get tricked by another trail to the right along a fence. The trail tops out at the point with a good view then a rim trail goes on. It merges with a logging road then veers away at 03787, 22355. At 03769, 22917 it makes a bend to the right to get back on the rim then at 05158, 23327 it drops off the rim. At el 10000 it fades in a meadow with confusing signs, but it's visible again at 05346, 22303 then goes down to the dirt road and on to the highway. That took 5 hours, 45 minutes and the 1000 gain to the point was the only strenuous part. I encountered light mosquitoes. Hikers with only cars have to start at el 9600 and walk the 4wd road. The Behanin Trail was being cleared that day by an outfitter. Posted 2021.

⦁ DEER CREEK LAKE el 9940 is in a nice area that cattle are fenced out of, for now.  The lower TH is signed along highway 12 but I used the upper TH by turning off the highway at mp 100.9 and following the sign to Steep Creek Lake. The road goes past the lake to a sign for Chriss Lake at the TH el 9850. I walked the nearly level trail and stayed right at forks to the lake. Gresham Spring is just past the lake at N38 02264,W111 23510 el 9900. It had a good flow. I spent 100 minutes and had a good flower show. The nearly 4 miles of road is mostly good for mtn bikes and so is the trail but I couldn't tell if it was open to bikes. There are loop possibilities here using the trail on to Chriss Lake with a shuttle. Posted 2021.

⦁ TRAIL POINT el 10836 has, of all things, a trail. Who would have guessed? A loop can be done up that then down the trail in the east fork of Boulder Creek. Take highway 12 to mp 92.1 and turn on a graded road and stay right on graded roads for nearly 6 miles to the TH at Kings Pasture reading N38 02187, W111 26870 el 9200. Walk it to Divide Lake where the correct trail forks left at 02797, 27781 el 9550. It goes up to the point then along the east shore of Circle Lake then Halfmoon Lake and then at 05072, 28081 it goes up a hill and on another fifth mile to Horseshoe Lake. At that hill there's a faint hiker trail that stays low to a good view on the rim. I followed the outlet from Horseshoe Lake to the Ledge Lakes at 05165, 27832 then went along the left shore to the rim. Then I went up the rim and down to a canyon at 05186, 27516 el 10600. I walked down that 100 feet or so then got up on the left bank near some trees to get on some dirt and went on down the canyon. At 04998, 27670 el 10150 I got on the left bank then on down to the first spring at 04935, 27708 el 10050 in the main creekbed. I went down the creekbed a few feet to get on the right bank then I could walk that to the main spring 300 feet away at 04896, 27753 in the next little drainage to the right that feeds into the main meadow. I saw cow shit a few feet below that and knew I was home free. I walked the left edge of the main meadow to the trail at the lower end of the meadow. I likely goofed there by crossing the creek and walking back to Divide Lake but I should have followed the trail the other way and down the east side of the creek to the start. 7 hours, nearly 2000 noticeable gain. Light mosquitoes were hanging around the springs. I can't recall seeing a spring that size in the state and it's not even on the topo. Posted 2021.

⦁ RIM BACKPACK - if I wanted to backpack the rim one way, I would go up at Bowns Point. I might try the old road that goes up from Long Lake. It shows on the sat image and might be less steep.

Obscure Hikes Around Capitol Reef

The Ant Hill at top center

1. Loa has a Family Dollar and the best supermarket. Torrey and Hanksville have smaller stores and all have gas.
2. ⦁ CAPITOL BENCHMARK el 7614 is in a remote area of northern Capitol Reef NP. A hikers route climbs out of Spring Canyon at point 5935. Take highway 24 to the Chimney Rock TH at mp 76.3 and follow the signs to Spring Canyon. It's 2.25 air miles from the start. Go upstream to the exit trail at N38 19839, W111 15834. There's just one way up a long chute that is easy class 3 and some might label it class 2. When it opens up there are various routes. The unsteepest is to stay low to a drainage at 19799, 15645 el 6300 and go up that then work over to another drainage at 19894, 15621 el 6500. Go up that bending right to 19926, 15556 el 6600 and keep going up the easy ground into another drainage with a cliff in the way. Several routes go thru the cliffs but I used one on the right at 20029, 15311 el 6750 to get in the saddle el 6800 east of peak 6981. Then just go down the canyon on the other side to el 6700 then cut over on the right bank to a canyon at 20412, 15400 el 6700. Go up that to a bridge then pass it on the left and stay in the canyon to the head at 20746, 16025 el 7000 and pass thru a gap east of peak 7238. All hikers tracks had ended by then but I had 2 bars of Verizon. Next, drop a little for easy walking all the way to a cliff band at 21338, 16996 el 7100. Go right along the cliff base for nearly a tenth mile to an easy drainage that goes up to the next level then rim walk around the east side of the peak to the NE ridge at 21741, 17106 el 7200. Go up to the summit at 21644, 17251. I couldn't find the reg that was there a decade earlier. The BM is at the west end of the summit but tricky for a solo hiker to get on. It took 5 hours, 12 minutes to the summit and 4 hours, 50 minutes for the return. There is 300 noticeable gain at the start then about 1000 to exit the canyon and another 400 at the final ridge. The app has this at 16.4 miles.  Backpackers could cut 7 miles by setting up in cottonwoods a fifth mile downstream from the exit in Spring Canyon. Then slog up the canyon for a mile to a spring in an alcove at 20121, 16658. That would cut the hike to the peak to under 8 hours. I posted a track on peakbagger. Posted May, 2021.
3. ⦁ THE ANT HILL el 9291 is 5 miles NW of Torrey. I followed the route by Ryan Davis on peakbagger up the NE ridge but I parked short of his starting point to avoid crossing a deep draw. Take the Sand Creek Rd out of the west end of Torrey for nearly a mile to the end of pavement then go left and stay on FR 207 until you come to an aqueduct. Stay along that to a gate at N38 21334, W111 28021 el 7800. It's easy 4wd to there. ATVs and cycles can get thru for another mile to a steep hill at a stream el 8200. Walk up the stream for 400 feet then go left up a steep side draw then work left thru a gap at 21861, 28856 el 8450.  Level off then walk along the left side of rough slickrock and on up to a saddle at 21830, 29062 el 8700. Then go right around a bump and the rest is in view. Some rough slickrock is in the way. A route goes around the right crossing sandy gullies. I prefer to go over it at 21544, 29135 el 8550 then move far left to get down the other side then up to the summit at 20902, 29432. No reg but there was an ant hill. 3 hours, about 1500 gain. Add an hour if starting from the gate. This is a top notch hike with pines and slickrock. I could have a rode a fat tire ebike in on the nearly 6 miles of dirt road that day.  BROWN BENCHMARK el 8964 is nearby. Stay right at the first fork after leaving pavement and proceed to the correct road at 19728, 26398. Take that to a foot trail #154 at 21747, 26570 el 8200. Walk the trail for a third air mile or so then head for a low ridge at 22167, 25811 and it will bend right to 22144, 25636 el 8300 to get up slickrock then it levels off. Stroll on north to 22357, 25433 el 8300 where the rest is in view. It's easy to walk across a piney flat then up the SW slope to the summit at 22424, 24833. I stayed left around some scrub near the summit. 4 hours, nearly 1500 gain. The roads and trail are on the topo. Some maps show a second trail forking toward the peak but it's fake. The nearly 6 miles of 4wd road is mtn bikeable but half of it is very bumpy.  Posted 2021, 2023.
4. ⦁ MEEKS MESA el 7850 has a well traveled trail to the top as the topo shows. Take highway 24 to mp 72.9 and pull into a camp area. The trail starts out steep at N38 19671, W111 21921 el 6500. It levels off at el 6800 and runs NW for a mile and a half then turns right into a canyon and goes up the top of the mesa el 7576. Then just stroll to 21047, 22201 el 7700 and follow the high ground as it bends left and on to the high point at 21363, 23236. No sign of humanity at the high point, not even tracks. There is no way down to the west from the high point. 5 hours, 1500 + gain, easy terrain. This is allegedly a cattle trail but I saw not one sign of cattle anywhere. ALTERNATE DESCENT - a class 3 route drops off the mesa to the north into Spring Canyon. Head for the rim at 21403, 22061 next to point 7521 where there is a view into what looks like a wide drainage. The route angles down to the far side of the drainage then zigzags down to the key waypoint at 21466, 22082 el 7250. At first, I went too far left of it down an easy shelf and had to come back. Then I dropped straight down on minor class 3 and only had one way to go. Tracks and cairns were showing up by then that led me down to the right into a drainage and then the smooth canyon floor. Going down canyon there are a few minor drops right away but all easily passed on the left. At 21163, 18426 I came to a side canyon on the left with the first water. Intermittent water in the main canyon started south of peak 6930. The best water is up a side canyon at 20121, 16658 in an alcove. A tiny stream drops over a ledge. I didn't filter it. At 19489, 15846 there is a trail on the right  bank that leads into a right fork. I went up that staying left at main forks until I hit the main trail then I went right on that to the Chimney  Rock TH at mp 76.3. I did this as a separate hike over the mesa and skipping the high point. It took 8 hours. It takes 2 hours to get to the descent point off the  mesa. If you get stymied it would be easy to follow your own tracks back out. There's nothing dangerous about the class 3 parts. I had a rope with a hook but never used it. The descent route is detailed at bluugnome.com for Pandoras Box. Posted 2021.
5. ⦁ SOUTH CAINEVILLE MESA el 5980 has a trail. Park at a gate on highway 24 at mp 100.2. Step over the gate and get in a trench at N38 20609, W110 59046. Cattle walk down the trench to the river. Wade across and aim for a gap at 20373, 58782 that leads into a valley. Go up to a left fork at 19624, 58756 el 4650 then stay right in that and the trail will appear and lead up to the rim el 5800. The high point is a mile and a half away at 19406, 56829. Cain Benchmark is out on the point 2/3 mile away. Cliffs along the way to it have a class 3 route on the east rim. It took 2 and a half hours to get to the high point with 1200 noticeable gain. The river was shin deep in late May. The land along the river is private but not posted yet. I had 2 bars of Verizon on top. Posted 2021. ALTERNATE DESCENT - another trail drops off the south rim. In 2023, I went up the north trail then headed straight for a stone cabin at 17713, 58478 el 5900. A corral is a tenth mile before it. The cabin is habitable for now. Then I went to the south trail at 17597, 57979. It goes down with cairns then switches left then right then fades but goes straight down a ridge to 17450, 57967 el 5350 where it shows up again. It goes on down to a creekbed where a cairn was the last I saw. That hiker must have followed the creekbed out. But I went down it and under a boulder to an easy gully on the right where I could walk up then angle left onto the rim. I was reading  17253, 57979 there.  I then walked the rim and soon hit a spotty trail that goes on to 16833, 57230. I stayed on the right side of the rim for another .3 air mile and found the trail going down a point to Sweetwater Creek. There are several routes back to the highway. The shortest but dull is to go east to a 4wd or ebike spotted on the good Town Wash road. There is a cow trail on the north side of peak 4561 at 19129, 54214 that exits up the Sweetwater rim. The road goes to a paved ford at highway 24 at mp 106.7 but has some minor sand. A second way back is to walk stinky cow trails down Sweetwater Creek. Forget that. The best route is the near pristine wash running parallel west of Sweetwater. I got there by walking Sweetwater just a little past a side canyon then coming back over my left shoulder on flat ground into it reading 19089, 55233. It took me along the south side of peak 4806 then I went north over a low divide at 19267, 55506 and followed washes downstream to the river. I waded the river precisely at the confluence then went upstream staying left of tamarisk along some cottonwood trees on a game trail for a third air mile to a side canyon. I went up that to my cycle at mp 105.1 on highway 24. Figure on 8 hours and 15 miles. An option is a game trail at the mouth of the canyon going up to the right.  Some very light brush is along the river near the end but I got thru in shorts. The river there was knee deep at 56 CFS. A BLM register is a tenth mile in from the rim on the north traiL. It goes back to 1998. One person backpacked up but I would only do that after rains have filled potholes on the rim. Taking a backpack down the rocky south trail is strictly for the hardcore. Sweetwater had intermittent water but heavy cattle impact. This is one of the great hikes in the universe. Take a GPS and the track I posted on peagbagger.com. This hike starts on private land but no posted yet. Posted 2022, 2023.
6. ⦁ NORTH CAINEVILLE MESA el 6122  has two trails that can be used for a traverse. Leave a 4wd or fat tire ebike on highway 24 at mp 100.1. Then drive to mp 97.8 and follow an easy 4wd road around to the north side of the mesa in 7 or 8 miles. Park when close to the trail which is at N38 24145, W110 58259 el 5200. Walk over a low ridge to get at it. It goes up to the cliffs to the left of a crack then crosses to the right of the crack but a slide has hit it. It's best to just go on up to the crack from the left side. Once on top, it's a third mile to a cairn at the high point reading 24231, 57804. Then walk to the south rim at 23384, 58388 and along that then head for a wash at 22819, 59050 that leads back to the rim. Stay on the rim or near it to south trail at 21373, 59036 next to point 5429. It goes down a crack then under some boulders and on down to a flat el 5400. It drops off the flat at 21280, 59054 and goes straight down a ridge losing 700 feet in a quarter mile. At bottom, it goes over tedious hills to a cement truck ruin, but it's better to drop down to the right on the first easy little ridge just before a huge boulder then stroll to the highway. It takes nearly 5 hours to traverse the mesa with nearly 1000 noticeable gain. I didn't want to fool with no stinkin' shuttle so I parked at mp 99.3 and walked the wash around the west base to the TH. That part took 2 and a half hours then I had nearly a mile to walk on the highway when I got down. I had a about a 7 hour hike with not much loose sand. I had 2 bars of Verizon on top.  Posted 2021.
7. ⦁ THOMPSON MESA el 6040+ is 5 miles east of Notom. An abandoned jeep road goes up out of Blue Notch. Take the paved Notom Rd south out of Notom to a sign for Burro Wash Rd at N38 11212, W111 05611. Turn on that good road for 2 and a half miles  to the bottoms at Sandy Creek where there is room to camp. Then it's an OHV trail for another 3 and a half miles thru Bloody Hands Gap to a steep hill at 09806, 00767 el 5200. A fat tire ebike could make it. I parked there and walked the road to a fence at the top then left along the fence and on up to the top of the mesa. The road soon tops out on a rim el 5680 and goes in the wrong direction so I went left toward the main west rim at 10700, 00431 el 5750. Then I shortcutted a bend in the rim by heading for 11427, 00936 el 5900 then walked the rim for nearly a half mile where a bright hill got in the way. I stayed right around that then back to the rim and on to the high point at 12874, 01531. No sigh of humanity. I kept going to Thompson Benchmark at 13470, 01642 el 5975 then kept following the rim to a good view at 13770, 00533 el 5800. I then stayed on the easy ground to a break in cliffs at 13203, 00233 el 5750 then moved to the north rim when I had an easy path. I stayed on the rim around to point 5572 and then came back west following a canyon on the best part of the rim. I crossed the head of the canyon and stayed right of litttle mesa then on to 12388, 00896 el 5850 then 12080, 00888 el 5800 then 11758, 00842 el 5800 and then soon merged back to the starting route.  5 hours, 500 noticeable gain just for the high point and back. 10 hours for the whole loop with not much more noticeable gain. No recent grazing and most of the mesa has never been grazed.  This is the best mesa in the long line stretching from Caineville to Swap Mesa. Next time I'll pass by the BM to the east and cut it down to 9 hours.  A 1919 marker is on the north rim at W38 13052, W110 59464. I had 2 bars of Verizon on top. Posted 2021.
8. ⦁ WILDCAT MESA has a road until the last half mile. Go south from Notom for 9 miles to the Sandy Ranch Junction. Turn east on a main road there and go about 6 miles to the top of the mesa el 5700 then go left on road #14025. That's easy 4wd for 2 and a half miles then walk up rocky slopes to the Sandy BM at N38 07240, W111 01652 el 6050. TARANTULA MESA is farther out on the main road. Stay on it and keep right at main forks to road #14240 at N38 00580, W110 51767 and follow it up to el 7050 then walk a fifth mile to the high point at 00512, 52942 el 7194. A longer hike to do is the skinny north ridge. Keep driving SW on the mesa for 6 miles to a T. Go right for 3 miles to a rim el 6450. I had 2 bars of Verizon there. I walked nearly level on the high ground for 90 minutes to a neck at 02475, 59999 el 6400. It's only 150 feet wide with sheer cliffs on both sides. An ancient fence crosses it. I went on another 2/3 mile past the fence to peak 6459 where I could see the rest of the ridge. Nice pj forest and nearly pristine. Take a topo. All roads are easy 4wd but it's over 30 miles back to pavement. These are good cycle roads. The road on Stevens Mesa is sandy. I went as far as Indianwater Seep. A crack on the west rim goes down to the seep and a cave. All I found was one circle pecked into the rock to the left of the cave. Posted 2021.
9. ⦁ PEAK 6380 is on the west rim of Tarantula Mesa. Take the Notom Rd south into Capitol Reef NP and go nearly 5 miles south of the entrance to a cattle trail at N37 58582, W111 04238 el 5600. Walk it to a canyon at 58490, 03626 and go up that to a fork at 58582, 02683 el 5650. Go left and stay left at the next forks and the route up will be obvious. The summit is at 59153, 02916. No sign of humanity. 3 and a half hours, 800 noticeable gain. Good views because it's the highest spot around. Posted 2021.
10. ⦁ SWAP MESA is south of Tarantula Mesa. Sheer Benchmark el 6158 is the high point and can be accessed from the Notom Rd. Park along the road near N37 50663, W110 59613 el 4950 which is a route thru a minor cliff. Keep going NE into a major canyon cutting thru the cliffs of the mesa. An obvious ridge goes up to the right out of the canyon. It goes parabolic but not loose. Upon topping out on the rim, it's easier to drop to the flats because the rim is rough at first. Climb back to the rim at 50937, 58577 el 5650 then it's a cakewalk on to the BM at 49984, 56947.  6 hours and about 1000 noticeable gain and half of that is steep. Cattle graze until the last half mile. They come up an ancient road out of Swap Canyon. I had 1 bar of Verizon at the BM. I went back later and made a loop around the BM. I walked along the south base to the east canyon then up that to a side canyon at 51476, 56475 el 5250. I went west up that for .44 air mile then up the left slope to the top. I walked a nice pj forest to the descent ridge at 51166, 59161 el 5600. That took 6 hours with about 500 noticeable gain. I could have saved a half hour or more with a bike shuttle on the Notom Rd. Cattle graze on most of the route.  MESA BENCHMARK el 7102  is an easy one to the west. Drive the Burr Trail to the top of the switchbacks then on to the park boundary where pavement starts. Go another 2 miles then left on a jeep road for a mile to a fork at N37 51873, W111 07494 el 6800. The road soon turns bad but it's easy to walk to the west side where it switches up to the left to the next level el 6900 where it splits. The right fork runs level then up to the next level then goes left to the north rim and on to the reg at 51973, 08035. It takes an hour to the summit using the road. This peak is a contender for high point of the Studhorse Peaks. Good views with minimal effort. Posted 2021.
11. ⦁ SOUTH FORK OAK CREEK CANYON - I made a loop down the north rim then back up a trail in the canyon. Take highway 12 to mp 100.8 and turn on FR180. Follow that down 4 or 5 miles to FR1967 as the topo shows. Jeeps and high powered ebikes can make it that far but FR1967 is narrow and covered with bumpy little rocks. I parked at roads end in Cons Hole at the TH sign reading 03260, 17049 el 7700. I then walked north on an OHV trail to get on the rim then went over peak 7952 and used a topo on my phone to stay on the rim. There is some light brush at first then at el 7200 there are stands of ponderosa pines and I could wear shorts the rest of the hike. When I arrived on the ridge NW of peak 7210, I veered toward it to get down a cliff band then resumed going north to a game trail at 04512, 13484 el 7000. I followed that down to a cliff band then it goes left and down a crack to a flat el 6800 and no more cliffs. But a scrub barrier is along the creek so it's best to aim for a gap in it at 04663, 13139 el 6450. Then I walked an ATV trail down Oak Creek for nearly a mile to a sign pointing up the South Fork to Cons Hole in 5 miles. A stream runs for about half of it with a swim hole at 03500, 13626 el 6550. That took 7 hours, 14 minutes with maybe 1000 noticeable gain. The creeks were jumpable. The rim is in pristine condition except for some ancient cow shit. The canyons are lightly grazed and no cattle were there on June 9, 2021. SHORT VERSION - there is a possible route off the north rim south of peak 7252 at 03661, 14881 which would cut the hike in half. ONE WAY VERSION - I could drive in on FR180 for half a mile or so then walk it down to the canyon and follow trails to Lower Bowns Reservoir where a second car or ebike would be parked. That would eliminate all the nasty road driving. Posted 2021.
13. ⦁ BLACK MOUNTAIN el 6308 is along the Cathedral Valley road. I did a loop over then back along the west base. The road departs highway 24 near mp 98 and goes easy 4wd for a bit over 10 miles to a sign for Caineville Wash. I went another 2 miles on the road and stashed my Zizzo bike then came back and went up the wash and then up a ridge at N38 26977, W111 05663 to get on the easy SE ridge of the peak. I went over the summit then down the north ridge to 28224, 06771 then down to a huge clearing. I walked another clear corridor from there to 28422, 06650 then down that ridge to el 5250 where I crossed a wash to the next ridge on my right then on to a gully at 28528, 05968 el 5200 where I could drop into a chasm. I strolled up that to the base of a 200 foot fall then made a U-turn and headed for Middle Desert Wash. I cut a huge gooseneck at 28746, 06466 then checked out a good side canyon at 28841, 07030. The next big gooseneck has a faint road cutting it at 28287, 07564 then I hit water on the other side but that didn't last. I had a nearly straight shot to my bike. 6 hours, 1000 noticeable gain and all easy, 12 miles. The chasm is the highlight. Willow Seep is 8 miles or so in on the road and it had a tiny stream. No recent cattle. Posted Oct, 2023.
14. ⦁ TROUGH BENCHMARK el 6516 is high on the Moroni Slopes. A good loop up ridges starts from the south. The Factory Butte road goes north 11 miles from highway 24 to a main fork. Left goes to Salt Wash south of the peak as the topo shows. I strolled down the wash past peak 4783 then up a slope on the NW side of it at N38 30472, W110 56873. Then it's an easy ridge walk all the way. At el 6100 there is minor drop with a bypass on the left at 31541, 58792. It's class 3 and 6 feet high. No more obstacles to the summit. I descended the rim of the canyon to the west known as Cable Canyon. At el 6200 there are two crags with a sheep trail along the left side. Then there is a deep dip to cross to peak 6121 then down to a hidden ridge at 30822, 59164 el 5850. Near bottom it gets convoluted but I stayed right on a natural road at 30193, 57842 then to 30048, 57664 then the final slope at 29978, 57214. I stayed out of drainages for the whole loop. 5 and a half hours, 2200 gain, rarely steep. The drive in is easy 4wd and a car might get close enough to ebike it. Posted 2023.
15. ⦁ NEILSON WASH crosses highway 24 at mp 106.2. It's an easy loop up then back on the west rim.  I strolled up it staying left at forks but hit a 12 foot fall with a pool a quarter mile before the Factory Butte road. I retraced back to the last fork and took it to N38 23393, W110 53274 where I could exit and walk to the road at 23410, 53567 where it skirts the west fork then walk the rim back. The shortest route back to the start is a crack at 22005, 52870 but it has a 4 or 5 foot drop. The chicken route is to aim for the highway at 21995, 53248 then it's a third mile back. 2 and a half hours and hardly any strain. This would make a good moonlight walk. Posted 2023.
16. ⦁ COAL MINE WASH is a good one for a loop down then back on the far north rim. I rode my cycle in from highway 24 at mp 105.5 for 9 miles to a kiosk at the wash, but kept going 1.7 miles to N38 29860, W110 55369 and parked. Then I rode my folding bike back to the  kiosk and locked it there. I strolled down the wash for half a mile to a drop with a huge pool. A route goes down left of it and I went on to a side canyon at 28977, 52623. I went up that staying right at a main fork and in the streambed when I could to minimize eyesore tracks. Near the head of the canyon I took a left fork for 300 feet or so to a tiny gully on the right at 29587, 52794 and got out then took a game trail to the next level. I walked north on that rim along the 4800 line and eventually the 5000 line. In the last mile or so I pulled away from the rim to 30188, 54732 then to my cycle. 3 hours, 9 minutes with 100 noticeable gain. This is a great rim walk with views of the unspoiled badlands.  I would take long pants for itchy plants in the lower wash. This is so easy it makes pie look hard. The first half mile to the pool would make a good moonlight hike. Posted 2023.
17. ⦁ SKYLINE RIM  is along highway 24 between Caineville and Hanksville. I got lucky and found two routes thru the cliffs to make a one way hike. I locked my Zizzo bike to pole #565 at mp 107.8 on the highway. The I went east a mile on the highway to a ranch at a steel corral. I turned north there and stayed right at a fork for a mile to closure signs at a popular canyon. I walked to the west fork at N38 23556, W110 50212 and on up to the end where I could only go up a right fork with a minor fall. Just past that is a hidden slope up to the next level at 24037, 50186. I walked that a short way to an easy ridge to the main rim. Then I walked east to a cow trail at 24102, 49881 that goes to a point then down to the next level and then it's easy to walk a skinny peninsula until a drop blocks the way. I made a U-turn and walked the rim to a descent gully at 22688, 51560 that looked good on the sat image but hopeless in person. On second  glance I saw that I might have a shot. I dropped down then went right and had no trouble to the bottom then strolled out to my bike and had an easy 2 mile ride to the start. 3 and a half hours, 100 noticeable gain for the hike part. The west fork would be a good hike on its own. No sign of humanity in that. Posted 2023.
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Cabin on South Caineville Mesa

Inscriptions on South Caineville Mesa