San Pitch Mountains, Utah

Crest road and Big Baldy

Big Baldy summit

Maple Canyon

M

 ⦁ The best way to see this range is to run the crest road with a 4wd or dual sport  cycle. The road is easy 4wd when dry except for a rubbly section north of Wales but that can be bypassed. Use an app like peakbagger to view topo maps. There is a Verizon signal and so sat images are available too. Part of the southern section goes thru private land but passage is allowed. It's all cattleguards but for one gate on the whole crest road. Get cracking before the land owners change their minds. Wales has no gas but Levan and Fountain Green do. Posted 2021.

⦁ CREST ROAD -  I got on it just north of Gunnison at mp 1.2 on highway 28. At 3.3 miles in there is a crude road going left to the NE saddle el 5900 of THE CATERPILLAR. It's a short but steep walk to the summit at N39 13085, W111 48622. A higher summit NE of the saddle might also be a part of The Caterpillar. Another 1.3 miles up the crest road is a main fork that leads to Mellor Benchmark el 6672. Go right and stay on the main road for 1.7 miles then an easy 4wd road goes up the south ridge for nearly 2 miles to survey junk at 14160, 45936. The crest road took me thru private land to a fork at 22641, 45514 el 8300. Left is the crest road and it goes about 11 miles to the main road connecting Wales to Levan. It's easy 4wd. Going right at the fork takes you into the southern Maple Canyon and down to the west side road. Near the mouth there are power lines going up a side canyon. A good road goes up that canyon  for about 7 miles to towers on Barton Peak el 8457. A gate at 20194, 46257 el 8100 might be locked but there were no signs against walking the last mile. Some of this goes thru private land but that wasn't gated. That road also goes thru the Maple Canyon WMA where an easy 4wd road goes NE for a bit over a mile to peak 7008. There is a camp spot there with a hell of a view. The crest road goes on north less than a mile to the south ridge of BIG BALDY el 8775. It's an easy walk up the ridge. The next peak of interest is BIG MOUNTAIN el 7900+. Mostly smooth FR1024 departs the crest road at 28518, 41948 and goes nearly 5 miles to it with shady camps at the end.That's a good looking grassland out there with no cattle. A white point below the end of the road has a view into an abyss. Another road departs the crest road at the same spot as FR1024 and it goes 2 miles to peak 7775. Both roads are good for ebikes. Next, the crest road comes to FR101 that connects Wales to Levan. The crest road continues north as FR69 but 8 miles north of FR101 is a rubbly stretch that's tricky for two wheelers. It's better to bypass by dropping to Wales and coming back up in Maple Canyon on FR66. That's better scenery anyway. There is a safe looking pipe spring along FR101 at 29031, 40813 el 6850. The crest road goes past MORONI BENCHMARK then peak 9548 also has a road. The crest road goes on to the east ridge of the SALT BENCHMARK el 9997. It's a short walk to the reg at 39886, 44590. Then retrace nearly 5 miles and go down Log Hollow. The best water I saw is Cool Spring there at 37071, 42501 el 9050. The road goes on down to highway 28 at mp 44.8. Posted 2021.

⦁ MAPLE CANYON is a mecca for climbers and it's hard to find a camp spot. The trails are shown on the topo and there is a map at the TH. I hiked up the middle fork then came down the left fork but that fork is overgrowing at the upper end. I made it in shorts OK but take a machete and chainsaw to be on the safe side. It took 3 hours. There is a parking fee but it ain't used for trail maintenance. BOX CANYON is another attraction here but I skipped it. Posted 2021.

⦁ HORSE HEAVEN MOUNTAIN el 8475 has a fire break and game trails up the NW ridge. Take 100 South out of Levan to a dam a half mile downstream from the Chicken Creek Campground. Walk across the creek below the dam and then up an ATV trail for half a mile into Maple Hollow. Start up the ridge at N39 31832, W111 46829 el 6300 and keep going up the ridge to 30757, 47753 el 8200 where you stay low left of center to avoid a thicket. Return to the ridge at 30670, 47620 el 8400 then on to the cairn at 30671, 47500. Nearly 5 hours, 2500 gain, rarely steep. Some light brush for now. But like rust, brush never sleeps so get cracking while you can. The campground is free but covered with cow shit. PIGEON CREEK is the next canyon to the north but it's sunny and boring and even more cow shit. Posted 2021.

⦁ PEAK 8360 is SW of Horse Heaven Mtn with towers on it. Take highway 28 south from Levan to mp 26.3 and follow a smooth road for nearly 6 miles to the summit. Cars make it half way then it's too steep. DEEP CREEK is on the north side of the peak. A good road starts at mp 26.5 and goes 4 miles then it's an ATV trail on to the crest. Some good camps are along the road and no cattle. Posted 2021.

⦁ CEDAR HILLS HIGH POINT el 8040 has an easy 4wd road to the east saddle el 7260. Drive out of Fountain Green on the graded Big Hollow Rd to the 4wd road at N39 39529, W111 33281 el 6500. It goes 2 and a half miles to the saddle and is ebikeable. Then hike up the east ridge staying left around some scrub. It tops out then go left 300 feet to survey junk at 37874, 32600. 90 minutes, 800 gain, some light brush near the summit. Posted 2021.

Fish Lake Area, Utah

Peculiar sign near Emerald Lakes

Emerald Lakes

One of the pristine meadows along Tasha Creek

Mount Marvine left and Fish Lake Hightop on the right.

The GWT is one of the smooth ATV trails around

 Mount Terrill. 

The trail on Fish Lake Hightop is open to mtn bikes. It's good most of the way.

  

⦁ Highway 25 goes north from highway 24 at mp 39 and goes past Fish Lake and two more lakes then on to highway 72. About midway along is where newly paved FR640 goes 28 miles to I-70 at the Gooseberry exit. Countless camp spots are along the way and paved pullouts that RVs can use. Fish Lake has a secret dispersed camp area on the south shore next to the big sign marking the boundary of the rec area. The rest of the campgrounds around the lake have a fee. Cattle are fenced out. Loa has a good supermarket and Family Dollar. Posted 2021.

⦁ MYTOGE MOUNTAINS HIGH POINT el 10311 has an easy route up the west side. Drive north a short way on the highway from Mill Meadow Reservoir to the sign for the Mytoge Mountain Rd. Follow that good road for miles to a fork with a sign for Crater Lakes. The remaining 5 miles is tricky for cars but mtn bikeable. Some 4wd spots are encountered at the lakes then the road ends at a fence el 9700 where foot trail #366 descends to the north end of Fish Lake. That would be another way in.  I walked along the right side of the fence to where it turns right then went to N38 35263, W111 38634 then 35256, 38571 then 35258, 38486 then 35214, 38312 then the reg and survey junk are at 35197, 38069. I left cairns and a track on peakbagger and so all the coordinates might not be needed. 2 hours, 600 gain, all easy. I had easy pathways around fallen trees. A quarter mile before the peak I crossed an abandoned trail but it's no good for this hike. The Mytoge Rd goes on 10 miles and meets highway 25 at mp 4.8 but it's not as smooth. LONG VERSION - starting at the Lake Creek TH el 8850 along  highway 25 makes for a 2 mile hike to the fence el 9700. A trail behind the restroom goes along the bank then you have to wade the creek to the trail on the far bank that goes to Porcupine Draw. Then at the "e" on the map there is a secret fork that goes up to the fence. I returned later and made a loop using trail #166 that goes to the Crater Lakes then down #166 and that took 3 and a half hours but I skipped the peak. Posted 2021.

⦁ HILGARD MOUNTAIN, U M PLATEAU - these two can be done on the same day. Take highway 25 to the east side of Johnson Valley Reservoir and turn on graded FR15. Go about 6 miles to a main fork where a sign points left to Upper U M Creek. Go left there on FR43 for half a mile to a sunny camp area with a good restroom. Cars could make it there then do both peaks with an ebike. The road goes on and becomes easy 4wd then after 3 miles it turns into an ATV trail that is ebikeable when dry. Go a mile and a third up the trail to a spotty elk trail at N38 43852, W111 37069 el 10100. A tenth mile before that I filled bottles at gushing springs. I walked the trail to 44109, 36848 then 44205, 36707 then at 44313, 36419 el 10700 I came to the rim and walked close to it to survey junk at 44006, 35482 el 11100. Just past that is an old sign post. 2 hours, 1000 easy gain. For HILGARD, return to FR15 and go another 4 miles or so to a faint logging road at 42007, 32692 el 10150. The last mile is easy 4wd. A hiker trail goes up it to 41399, 32700 el 10600 where the trail soon fades, but elk trails go up and angle to the right then comes the final ridge which is rocky tundra. The reg, approved by the Postmaster General, is at 41046, 32632 el 11533. 3 hours, 1400 gain, some very light brush. FR15 goes on to meet highway 25 at mp 23.9. Along the way, FR16 branches off and goes down to I-70. It's a decent road and about 4 miles along that is where rocky FR217 forks to the right and goes half a mile to the north ridges el 8800 of JOHNS PEAK el 9540. It's an easy hike to the reg on rocky tundra. Posted 2021.

⦁ EMERALD LAKES el 10260 are tucked in on the east side of U M Plateau. There was a trail once upon a time but now it's better to walk elk trails thru meadows. Take highway 25 to the east side of Johnson Valley Reservoir and turn on graded FR15. Go about 8 miles to FR1594 at N38 42185, W111 34281. That road is closed in a quarter mile at a green gate. Walk it to another green gate with a cattle poison sign. Go left along the fence to the next gate where a trail starts. But it goes off course and fades, so it's better to walk to a clearing at 42774, 34766 then to 42946, 34826 then 43033, 34943 then on to the east lake at 43186, 35172. I was able to walk the east shore for a fifth mile. I didn't try for the other lake. It takes an hour to the lake with 800 easy gain. Some light mosquitoes. This is best in late summer when meadows are dry. Posted July 3, 2021.

⦁ FISH LAKE HIGHTOP el 11633 has a 4wd road up the south ridge that nearly everyone uses for this peak. There is an option to hike a trail up the north ridge then down the trail along Tasha Creek. Leave a vehicle at the Tasha TH at mp 1.3 on FR640. Then drive to mp 7.2  and turn on the Cold Springs Rd. Stay left at main forks for the first mile and a half then go right at a main fork for the remaining 2 miles or so to Daniels Pass el 10242. The last mile is steep enough to need 4wd and is ebikeable. A kiosk is at the TH. The trail enters the forest at N38 40925, W111 42510 el 10350 and easy to follow all the way to the road el 11400 on the east side of the high point. Cairns lead from there to a break in the cliffs at 36377, 44375 then on to the reg at 36482, 44362. Then retrace down to Tasha Spring at 36404, 44141 el 11400. It's likely safe but I would filter it. The trail is a few feet to the north on the map but all I found was easy tundra. It can be walked down the drainage to 36381, 43618 el 11100 where the trail appears at the edge of the forest. It goes past several meadows that are as good as I've ever seen. Cattle have never been above el 9500 in this canyon as far as I can tell. At el 9220 there is a sign pointing left for a trail going a quarter mile to the Tasha TH. That took 6 hours, 20 minutes with 1400 easy gain. The app showed 14 miles. Light mosquitoes are along the Tasha Trail. This is one of the best summer hikes in the state. It's a good idea to take a phone with the topo in case miscreants knock down the cairns on the north ridge trail. MTN BIKE VERSION - the north ridge trail is open to bikes and well suited to them but bikers don't know about it. Rocks are rarely a problem and fallen trees, mostly below 11200, aren't numerous enough to be a deterrent. I would ride up the south road then down the north trail. Cars can make it to Hancock Flat el 10000. BOOBE MOUNTAIN el 10760+ is nearby. Drive on thru Daniels Pass on the main road for 2 miles then the high point is a fifth mile north at 42139, 43575. The main road ends at private land but a bad OHV trail drops down to Broadhead Lakes. It smoothes out at the lakes then goes on to a T at FR56 and that road goes back to the highway.  Posted 2021.

⦁ MOUNT MARVINE el 11610 has a decent route from U M Pass. Take FR640 to mp 3.8 and turn on a good road that goes 2 and a half miles to the pass el 10500 with good camping. A secret hiker trail at N38 40813, W111 38091 goes right of center up the ridge. It fades then I walked a passage at 40516, 38295 el 10950 and on to 40404, 38353 el 11100. I stayed in the trees on easy paths and then to minimize walking on rocks, I went up the east slope  to 40092, 38384 el 11200 and followed the easiest ground to the summit ridge about a tenth mile south of the summit at 40026, 38460 el 11600. A hiker trail goes left of center to the north side of the summit block where a class 3 stairway goes up to the reg at 40094, 38466. 3 and a half hours, 1100 gain. I rode my 125 east from the pass on a smooth ATV trail then hit the GWT at U M Creek. I went north over the divide and came back to the highway at Twin Ponds camp area. Rocks were rarely an issue. Posted 2021.

⦁ GATES LAKE - a good road leaves FR640 at mp 9.7 and goes to the lake but the last bit is steep. A restroom and tables are there. The first mile has camps with a Verizon signal which makes them hard to get. An ATV trail goes down from the lake to FR640 near Harves Reservoir. It has rocks but not bad. Posted 2021.

⦁ MOUNT TERRILL el 11547 is an easy tundra hike from the north. Take FR640 to mp 10 and turn on a 4wd road el 10500 that is mtn bikeable. Follow that for about a mile and a half then go left up to a repeater el 10850. An obvious trail runs toward the peak and fades in a saddle el 11000. Just stay right around a minor bump then on to N38 43136,  W111 39150 el 11250 then 43040, 39000 el 11250 and finally and elk trail at 42746, 38926 el 11450 goes up to the west side then it's a tenth mile to a repeater on top. 3 hours, less than 1000 gain, all easy. Good camps are along the 4wd road. Posted 2021. 

⦁ SALINA RESERVOIR is a camp area along FR640 at mp 12.5. It has a restroom. Cold Spring and Twin Ponds are along the next couple of miles and have restrooms. Gooseberry Campground is at mp 18.8 and is the only fee area along FR640. At mp 22 there is a large gravel parking area with a restroom. I-70 is at mp 28 and there is a free campground just to the east on the south frontage road at the GWT TH. Posted 2021.

⦁ FLAT TOP MOUNAIN el 8638 has a good ATV trail most of the way and it's ebikeable. Turn off FR640 at mp 14.8 and take the ATV trail at the end of the road. It goes across Niotche Creek to a fork. Stay left to a manmade foot trail at N38 48389, W111 35937. It goes toward the summit then veers left so get off for the last fifth mile thru light brush to the cairn at 48555, 35552. This walk takes less than an hour with hardly any gain. I followed the smooth ATV trail north down into Aspen Hollow then back to Niotche Creek. It goes up along the right bank of that then meets the gravel Browns Hole Rd and that goes back to FR640 next to Gooseberry Benchmark. This peak is mainly an excuse to take good ride. Posted 2021.

⦁ GOOSEBERRY BENCHMARK is 9313 is an easy one for anybody with an ebike or ATV. Take FR640 to mp 16.3 and turn on a good road. Go a third mile then left on an ATV trail. It goes a mile to the NW side el 8900 of the peak. Walk cow trails to a trail in aspen at N38 48570, W111 39220 el 9050. Go up and stay along the edge of the aspen to the reg at 48473, 39069. 40 minutes, 400 gain, some light brush. Posted 2021.

⦁ THOUSAND LAKES MOUNTAIN el 11306 has a lot of trails but the easiest is the one from Snow Lake. Take highway 72 to mp 11.5 and turn on a graded road. Stay right at main forks, except the one at Elkhorn Campground, for over a dozen miles to a fork at N38 24836, W111 27544 el 10500. Go right for a mile to a gate then another tenth mile where the trail crosses the road el 10700. Good camping there and some cars would make it. I followed the trail up then the summit is at 25018, 28754 with a reg approved by the Postmaster General. But I saved that for later and stayed on the trail to Flat Top Spring at 26217, 28940 el 11050. A pipe feeds into 2 aluminum troughs and 2 trails descend the rim there. I then went north on the trail to where it bends right then took a left fork there reading 26615, 28531 that took me thru the trees then I had a bald rim to walk on for nearly half a mile to the north point of the plateau. I then retraced back south to the summit then back to the start. That took 3 and a half hours and the only noticeable gain is the 400 feet up the trail. Mosquitoes were light. The main road goes on another 3 miles to Chaffin Spring but turns rocky after 2 miles or so. Sand Creek Spring produces a good stream crossing the road and there's no point in going past there. That's the biggest stream I saw. The roads here are good for cycles and ebikes. But one bad road is the signed spur road to Deep Creek Overlook. The first campground is nearly 3 miles in from the highway and it's free then Elkhorn but it has a fee. The last one is tiny and free at 26318, 27785 el 10500 and there are countless dispersed sites. Grazing is very light in the whole area. I saw several lakes but couldn't find the other 990 lakes. Posted 2021. HENS HOLE PEAK el 10860 has a logging road up the south ridge. It's a good one to do on the drive out. At 28407, 27613 el 9885 is where FR203 branches off from the graded road. It's 7 miles in from the highway and there's a good camp there. Go up FR203 for a third mile on easy 4wd to a logging road blocked by berms at 28396, 27918 el 9950. Walk it to a long clearing then when it steepens there's a lucky gap in the aspen making it easy to move right of center then on up to the reg at 29216, 28496. 90 minutes, 600 strenuous gain. Posted 2021.

Boulder Mountain, Utah

The view from Bluebell Knoll

Pleasant Lake

Oak Creek Reservoir

Circle Lake

 ⦁ Boulder Mountain is so huge it deserves a page by itself. Some 60 square miles on top are near the 11000 foot level. The best hiking is the east rim accessed by highway 12. A visitor center at mp 106.7 has free maps and trail guides. Cheap campgrounds are along the highway and countless dispersed areas. I was getting a Verizon signal at points along the highway and when hiking the rim. Loa has a Family Dollar and the best supermarket. Torrey and Boulder Town have smaller stores and all have gas. Most trails are shown on the USGS topo maps. An app like peakbagger is essential to have the maps on a phone. Posted 2021.

⦁ BLUEBELL KNOLL el 11317 is the high point of Boulder Mtn. Take highway 24 south from Bicknell for 2 and a half miles and turn on the paved Hatchery Rd. Pavement ends in nearly 4 miles then stay on the main road and keep left at main forks for 20 miles then the summit is a fifth mile away at N38 09561, W111 30009. A gate el 10650 is at the last 3 miles and is locked in winter. Cars will have trouble with the last 3 miles but high powered ebikes should work. The roads are too bumpy for any extended bike riding. Posted 2021.

⦁ LOST LAKE el 9600 is south of Teasdale. The graded Donkey Reservoir Rd leaves town at N38 16367, W111 27588. In a bit over a mile it crosses the national forest boundary and becomes 4wd. It's hard packed with no major issues. At about 3 miles in from pavement go right at a fork then left at the next to the TH reading 15063, 29399 el 8400. The trail goes thru a burn area then at about half an air mile from the start is a fork el 8800 where the trail splits but it comes back together just before Lost Lake. I stayed left to Lost Lake then came back on the other trail which goes by the Bulberry Lakes then back to the fork el 8800. It took 90 minutes to the lake and the same for the return. The lake is at 13693, 30730. Gain is about 1300 and some is steep. Only the last half mile didn't burn. This is a popular trail in spite of the burn. A 38 year old man started the fire on purpose in 2012 and spent some time in jail. Posted 2021.

⦁ BLIND LAKE el 10233 is 9 miles south of Torrey. Various loops can be done. I did one to Donkey Point then walked the the rim to the trail at Fish Creek Point. Take highway 12 to mp 118 and turn on the graded North Slope Rd. Go 6 miles to a main fork el 8650. Shady creekside camps are around there. The left fork is a bad road that goes to Beaver Dam Reservoir. The right fork is easy 4wd that goes 2 and a half miles to the Blind Lake TH el 9794 where there is room to camp and a Verizon signal. I walked the trail to the lake and took a right fork at N38 10812, W111 26311 el 10250 that has no sign. It goes along the north shore then a signed fork points to Green Lake. I took that to the Donkey Pt trail at 11300, 26854 el 10350. I walked that up to the point then left it and walked the rim to the high point el 11200 with a good view. I then retreated from the rim to cross a minor drainage at 10409, 27373 el 11050 and then I should have stayed in the open but snow forced me back to the rim. I had to weave a lot of fallen trees to get to the trail descending the canyon at Fish Creek Point reading 08746, 26109 el 10900. The trail goes down past a 20 foot fall at el 10400 then to the Beaver Dam Res road where I went left then across the dam and followed the Wildcat Trail back with some uphill. That took 8 hours and the app said 2600 gain and 12.7 miles. I might save an hour next time by staying in the open on the mountain top. Mosquitoes were light and I didn't see any on the mountain top where there was a lot of little ponds and lakes. Trails are rocky but not many fallen trees to hop. The topo shows the trails. Posted June 2, 2021.

⦁ CHOKECHERRY POINT el 10770 is on the east rim of Boulder Mtn. A loop can be done using the rim trail to connect to the Rock Creek Trail. Leave a car on highway 12 at mp 12.8 where FR287 meets it. Then take highway 12 to mp 106.8 and turn on a decent dirt road and proceed to the TH at N38 06976, W111 20350 el 8750. The steep trail goes up along North Creek and joins a bad OHV trail at el 9882 then follows that to the rim where a sign points to Chokecherry Point which is at 08233, 21065. The rim trail goes on past the point then at point 10881 the trail splits and I didn't see it. I was on the fake trail on the north side and had to come back to the real one on the south side of the point like the map shows. Shortly I had a view on the rim at 08910,22561 el 10750. I could see a shelf just below that leads to a drainage. A few more feet ahead there is an easy way down to the shelf then I walked it to the drainage at 08923, 22608 el 10700. Then I went down the right side of the drainage until a rock outcrop got in the way. I went right around that on steep dirt and on down to el 10200 where a lot of fallen trees blocked the way. I easily went around the right side of that then left around a pond then I hit Rock Creek Meadow. I walked the right edge then that fizzled and I cut over to the trail at 09333, 22507 el 10050. It was easier to descend off the rim than I had hoped for. The trail had just been cleared down to where the Wildcat Trail crosses at el 9400 but is was easy to step over logs and soon it's an OHV trail. I stayed on it until .38 mile from FR287 which I then shortcutted to at 10968, 21520 el 8150. Then I had a short stroll to the highway. That took 6 and a half hours with about 2000 noticeable gain. Snow was the only water until Rock Creek and snow lingers on the descent drainage. I saw no mosquitoes. The trails are on the topo. It might work better to start this hike on the highway at point 8854 and go up to the OHV trail. Posted June 3, 2021.

⦁ CHOKECHERRY OHV TRAIL starts at mp 109 on highway 12. It's a nasty one but the only motorized route up the east rim. I saw God turning back on it. That's how bad it is. Posted 2021.

⦁ THE TERRACE TRAIL is south of Chokecherry Point. A loop can be done using the rim trail. Take highway 12 to mp 106.4 and turn on the Pleasant Creek road. It's easy 4wd for the first mile to a turnaround at N3806290, W111 21200 el 9000. Serious 4 wheelers and mtn bikers can go the remaining mile and a half to the end at the Meeks Lake TH el 9350. The Terrace Trail branches off to the right but I was using that for the return. I stayed on the Meeks trail up the canyon to the rim el 10650 then followed the rim trail north toward Chokecherry Point. The trail merges with a logging road then leaves it at 07531, 21992. That would be easy to miss but I was on the lookout because I knew they would try and trick me. At 08040, 21365 there is a witness Tantlus BM pointing to Chokecherry Point that is a third mile away. A fifth mile beyond that is the OHV trail that leads down to the Terrace Trail at 07648, 20917 and then I followed that back to the start. 5 and a half hours for the loop and I started at the TH. The gain to the rim is 1300 then some minor dips are on the rim trail. That trail is mostly a series of cairns, blazes and cut logs. It has a lot of smooth walking and no recent grazing. The Terrace Trail goes thru aspen but has heavy grazing. Cattle weren't there on June 5. This loop could be done starting at the North Creek TH which has a better road but is lower. Or just go up the Pleasant Creek road and take the Terrace Trail and come down the North Creek trail. That would be great in autumn when colors are turning. Posted 2021.

⦁ PLEASANT CREEK FALLS el 10400 drains thru the rim of Boulder Mtn a third mile SE of Pleasant Lake. A loop can be done up the Meeks Lake Trail then down Pleasant Creek.  I started at the Meeks Lake TH el 9350 as described above and followed the trail to the rim then went left. Before the lake there is a fork but I missed it and went to the north side of the lake. I corrected by walking the shore to the trail at N38 06843, W111 24057 el 10700 on the south side then followed it on to Pleasant Lake. Just past there I came to a rim of a gorge at 05514, 24790 el 10650. I could see a route down into the gorge right below me so I used that but it would be easier to use the route in view on the opposite side of the gorge. As I came to the lip of the fall I could see a cairn on the rim to my left, indicating someone already had this idea. I went over to it then down a gully to the base of the fall. Then I walked level on the right bank to get to a slope leading down to the forest and on to a spring at 05635, 24469 el 10100 with the safest looking water on the hike. Soon there are fallen trees in the way so I moved to the left bank of the main creekbed and followed elk and cow trails. At 05645, 24256 I moved to the right side of the canyon floor then when that was blocked by deadfall I moved left to a meadow at 05656, 24092. I followed the easy ground to 05728, 23964 and made a hard left to get on a real trail. Then it was just easy meadows to a jeep road at 06016, 23286 that goes back to the start. 6 hours for the loop. The gain to the rim is 1300 then there are minor dips on the rim trail. I left a lot of cairns. SHORT VERSION - just going up from below and back down the same way takes less than 4 hours. A third of an air mile beyond the Meeks Lake TH is a sign pointing left to the falls. It's an old road that fades in meadows along Pleasant Creek. I just followed the meadows until the forest closed in then I had cow and elk trails to follow. I moved to the far left at N38 05640, W111 24136 el 9850 then came back to the right bank at 05682, 24305 then  weaved on up to 05685, 24405 el 10000. I walked along the right bank there then got in the creekbed for 250 feet to get on the left bank at 05648, 24490 el 10100 and stayed on it to 05548, 24624 el 10350 where I could see the falls a few feet ahead. There was a small flow 40 or 50 feet high. 4 hours with 300 noticeable gain. I could do this in shorts. Cattle have ruined the meadows. A whole herd froze to death in there. But grazing may be on hold because fallen trees are blocking access for cattle and no one is cutting them. Let's hope so. Posted June 6, 2021.

⦁ LOWER BOWNS RESERVOIR el 7400 has a good road. Turn off highway 12 at mp 105.8 then it's 3 or 4 miles. Along the way is a sign pointing to Jorgensen Flats. That road goes 16 miles to connect to the paved road in Capitol Reef NP. It has a few 4wd spots but nothing major. Posted 2021.

⦁ OAK CREEK RESERVOIR el 10100 has a steep road. Turn off highway 12 at mp 105.3 then it's nearly 3 miles. It's hard packed until the last half mile. Posted 2021.

⦁ FR180 leaves highway 12 at mp 100.8 el 9600 then goes a dozen miles and comes back to the highway at the Oak Creek Cg el 8864 which is at mp 104.9. It morphs into FR169 along the way. It's good for cycles and ebikes because it's mostly hard packed but does get bumpy. Good views. Posted 2021.

⦁ BOWNS POINT el 10900+ has a trail. A one way hike can be done up that then down the Behanin Trail. Leave a car or ebike on highway 12 at mp 106.4 then drive to mp 100.9 el 9600 and take an easy 4wd road for 1.2 miles to Sunflower Flat. Walk to the trail at N38 03193, W111 20638 el 10000 and don't get tricked by another trail to the right along a fence. The trail tops out at the point with a good view then a rim trail goes on. It merges with a logging road then veers away at 03787, 22355. At 03769, 22917 it makes a bend to the right to get back on the rim then at 05158, 23327 it drops off the rim. At el 10000 it fades in a meadow with confusing signs, but it's visible again at 05346, 22303 then goes down to the dirt road and on to the highway. That took 5 hours, 45 minutes and the 1000 gain to the point was the only strenuous part. I encountered light mosquitoes. Hikers with only cars have to start at el 9600 and walk the 4wd road. The Behanin Trail was being cleared that day by an outfitter. Posted 2021.

⦁ DEER CREEK LAKE el 9940 is in a nice area that cattle are fenced out of, for now.  The lower TH is signed along highway 12 but I used the upper TH by turning off the highway at mp 100.9 and following the sign to Steep Creek Lake. The road goes past the lake to a sign for Chriss Lake at the TH el 9850. I walked the nearly level trail and stayed right at forks to the lake. Gresham Spring is just past the lake at N38 02264,W111 23510 el 9900. It had a good flow. I spent 100 minutes and had a good flower show. The nearly 4 miles of road is mostly good for mtn bikes and so is the trail but I couldn't tell if it was open to bikes. There are loop possibilities here using the trail on to Chriss Lake with a shuttle. Posted 2021.

⦁ TRAIL POINT el 10836 has, of all things, a trail. Who would have guessed? A loop can be done up that then down the trail in the east fork of Boulder Creek. Take highway 12 to mp 92.1 and turn on a graded road and stay right on graded roads for nearly 6 miles to the TH at Kings Pasture reading N38 02187, W111 26870 el 9200. Walk it to Divide Lake where the correct trail forks left at 02797, 27781 el 9550. It goes up to the point then along the east shore of Circle Lake then Halfmoon Lake and then at 05072, 28081 it goes up a hill and on another fifth mile to Horseshoe Lake. At that hill there's a faint hiker trail that stays low to a good view on the rim. I followed the outlet from Horseshoe Lake to the Ledge Lakes at 05165, 27832 then went along the left shore to the rim. Then I went up the rim and down to a canyon at 05186, 27516 el 10600. I walked down that 100 feet or so then got up on the left bank near some trees to get on some dirt and went on down the canyon. At 04998, 27670 el 10150 I got on the left bank then on down to the first spring at 04935, 27708 el 10050 in the main creekbed. I went down the creekbed a few feet to get on the right bank then I could walk that to the main spring 300 feet away at 04896, 27753 in the next little drainage to the right that feeds into the main meadow. I saw cow shit a few feet below that and knew I was home free. I walked the left edge of the main meadow to the trail at the lower end of the meadow. I likely goofed there by crossing the creek and walking back to Divide Lake but I should have followed the trail the other way and down the east side of the creek to the start. 7 hours, nearly 2000 noticeable gain. Light mosquitoes were hanging around the springs. I can't recall seeing a spring that size in the state and it's not even on the topo. Posted 2021.

⦁ RIM BACKPACK - if I wanted to backpack the rim one way, I would go up at Bowns Point. I might try the old road that goes up from Long Lake. It shows on the sat image and might be less steep.

Obscure Hikes Around Capitol Reef

The Ant Hill at top center

1. Loa has a Family Dollar and the best supermarket. Torrey and Hanksville have smaller stores and all have gas.
2. ⦁ CAPITOL BENCHMARK el 7614 is in a remote area of northern Capitol Reef NP. A hikers route climbs out of Spring Canyon at point 5935. Take highway 24 to the Chimney Rock TH at mp 76.3 and follow the signs to Spring Canyon. It's 2.25 air miles from the start. Go upstream to the exit trail at N38 19839, W111 15834. There's just one way up a long chute that is easy class 3 and some might label it class 2. When it opens up there are various routes. The unsteepest is to stay low to a drainage at 19799, 15645 el 6300 and go up that then work over to another drainage at 19894, 15621 el 6500. Go up that bending right to 19926, 15556 el 6600 and keep going up the easy ground into another drainage with a cliff in the way. Several routes go thru the cliffs but I used one on the right at 20029, 15311 el 6750 to get in the saddle el 6800 east of peak 6981. Then just go down the canyon on the other side to el 6700 then cut over on the right bank to a canyon at 20412, 15400 el 6700. Go up that to a bridge then pass it on the left and stay in the canyon to the head at 20746, 16025 el 7000 and pass thru a gap east of peak 7238. All hikers tracks had ended by then but I had 2 bars of Verizon. Next, drop a little for easy walking all the way to a cliff band at 21338, 16996 el 7100. Go right along the cliff base for nearly a tenth mile to an easy drainage that goes up to the next level then rim walk around the east side of the peak to the NE ridge at 21741, 17106 el 7200. Go up to the summit at 21644, 17251. I couldn't find the reg that was there a decade earlier. The BM is at the west end of the summit but tricky for a solo hiker to get on. It took 5 hours, 12 minutes to the summit and 4 hours, 50 minutes for the return. There is 300 noticeable gain at the start then about 1000 to exit the canyon and another 400 at the final ridge. The app has this at 16.4 miles.  Backpackers could cut 7 miles by setting up in cottonwoods a fifth mile downstream from the exit in Spring Canyon. Then slog up the canyon for a mile to a spring in an alcove at 20121, 16658. That would cut the hike to the peak to under 8 hours. I posted a track on peakbagger. Posted May, 2021.
3. ⦁ THE ANT HILL el 9291 is 5 miles NW of Torrey. I followed the route by Ryan Davis on peakbagger up the NE ridge but I parked short of his starting point to avoid crossing a deep draw. Take the Sand Creek Rd out of the west end of Torrey for nearly a mile to the end of pavement then go left and stay on FR 207 until you come to an aqueduct. Stay along that to a gate at N38 21334, W111 28021 el 7800. It's easy 4wd to there. ATVs and cycles can get thru for another mile to a steep hill at a stream el 8200. Walk up the stream for 400 feet then go left up a steep side draw then work left thru a gap at 21861, 28856 el 8450.  Level off then walk along the left side of rough slickrock and on up to a saddle at 21830, 29062 el 8700. Then go right around a bump and the rest is in view. Some rough slickrock is in the way. A route goes around the right crossing sandy gullies. I prefer to go over it at 21544, 29135 el 8550 then move far left to get down the other side then up to the summit at 20902, 29432. No reg but there was an ant hill. 3 hours, about 1500 gain. Add an hour if starting from the gate. This is a top notch hike with pines and slickrock. I could have a rode a fat tire ebike in on the nearly 6 miles of dirt road that day.  BROWN BENCHMARK el 8964 is nearby. Stay right at the first fork after leaving pavement and proceed to the correct road at 19728, 26398. Take that to a foot trail #154 at 21747, 26570 el 8200. Walk the trail for a third air mile or so then head for a low ridge at 22167, 25811 and it will bend right to 22144, 25636 el 8300 to get up slickrock then it levels off. Stroll on north to 22357, 25433 el 8300 where the rest is in view. It's easy to walk across a piney flat then up the SW slope to the summit at 22424, 24833. I stayed left around some scrub near the summit. 4 hours, nearly 1500 gain. The roads and trail are on the topo. Some maps show a second trail forking toward the peak but it's fake. The nearly 6 miles of 4wd road is mtn bikeable but half of it is very bumpy.  Posted 2021, 2023.
4. ⦁ MEEKS MESA el 7850 has a well traveled trail to the top as the topo shows. Take highway 24 to mp 72.9 and pull into a camp area. The trail starts out steep at N38 19671, W111 21921 el 6500. It levels off at el 6800 and runs NW for a mile and a half then turns right into a canyon and goes up the top of the mesa el 7576. Then just stroll to 21047, 22201 el 7700 and follow the high ground as it bends left and on to the high point at 21363, 23236. No sign of humanity at the high point, not even tracks. There is no way down to the west from the high point. 5 hours, 1500 + gain, easy terrain. This is allegedly a cattle trail but I saw not one sign of cattle anywhere. ALTERNATE DESCENT - a class 3 route drops off the mesa to the north into Spring Canyon. Head for the rim at 21403, 22061 next to point 7521 where there is a view into what looks like a wide drainage. The route angles down to the far side of the drainage then zigzags down to the key waypoint at 21466, 22082 el 7250. At first, I went too far left of it down an easy shelf and had to come back. Then I dropped straight down on minor class 3 and only had one way to go. Tracks and cairns were showing up by then that led me down to the right into a drainage and then the smooth canyon floor. Going down canyon there are a few minor drops right away but all easily passed on the left. At 21163, 18426 I came to a side canyon on the left with the first water. Intermittent water in the main canyon started south of peak 6930. The best water is up a side canyon at 20121, 16658 in an alcove. A tiny stream drops over a ledge. I didn't filter it. At 19489, 15846 there is a trail on the right  bank that leads into a right fork. I went up that staying left at main forks until I hit the main trail then I went right on that to the Chimney  Rock TH at mp 76.3. I did this as a separate hike over the mesa and skipping the high point. It took 8 hours. It takes 2 hours to get to the descent point off the  mesa. If you get stymied it would be easy to follow your own tracks back out. There's nothing dangerous about the class 3 parts. I had a rope with a hook but never used it. The descent route is detailed at bluugnome.com for Pandoras Box. Posted 2021.
5. ⦁ SOUTH CAINEVILLE MESA el 5980 has a trail. Park at a gate on highway 24 at mp 100.2. Step over the gate and get in a trench at N38 20609, W110 59046. Cattle walk down the trench to the river. Wade across and aim for a gap at 20373, 58782 that leads into a valley. Go up to a left fork at 19624, 58756 el 4650 then stay right in that and the trail will appear and lead up to the rim el 5800. The high point is a mile and a half away at 19406, 56829. Cain Benchmark is out on the point 2/3 mile away. Cliffs along the way to it have a class 3 route on the east rim. It took 2 and a half hours to get to the high point with 1200 noticeable gain. The river was shin deep in late May. The land along the river is private but not posted yet. I had 2 bars of Verizon on top. Posted 2021. ALTERNATE DESCENT - another trail drops off the south rim. In 2023, I went up the north trail then headed straight for a stone cabin at 17713, 58478 el 5900. A corral is a tenth mile before it. The cabin is habitable for now. Then I went to the south trail at 17597, 57979. It goes down with cairns then switches left then right then fades but goes straight down a ridge to 17450, 57967 el 5350 where it shows up again. It goes on down to a creekbed where a cairn was the last I saw. That hiker must have followed the creekbed out. But I went down it and under a boulder to an easy gully on the right where I could walk up then angle left onto the rim. I was reading  17253, 57979 there.  I then walked the rim and soon hit a spotty trail that goes on to 16833, 57230. I stayed on the right side of the rim for another .3 air mile and found the trail going down a point to Sweetwater Creek. There are several routes back to the highway. The shortest but dull is to go east to a 4wd or ebike spotted on the good Town Wash road. There is a cow trail on the north side of peak 4561 at 19129, 54214 that exits up the Sweetwater rim. The road goes to a paved ford at highway 24 at mp 106.7 but has some minor sand. A second way back is to walk stinky cow trails down Sweetwater Creek. Forget that. The best route is the near pristine wash running parallel west of Sweetwater. I got there by walking Sweetwater just a little past a side canyon then coming back over my left shoulder on flat ground into it reading 19089, 55233. It took me along the south side of peak 4806 then I went north over a low divide at 19267, 55506 and followed washes downstream to the river. I waded the river precisely at the confluence then went upstream staying left of tamarisk along some cottonwood trees on a game trail for a third air mile to a side canyon. I went up that to my cycle at mp 105.1 on highway 24. Figure on 8 hours and 15 miles. An option is a game trail at the mouth of the canyon going up to the right.  Some very light brush is along the river near the end but I got thru in shorts. The river there was knee deep at 56 CFS. A BLM register is a tenth mile in from the rim on the north traiL. It goes back to 1998. One person backpacked up but I would only do that after rains have filled potholes on the rim. Taking a backpack down the rocky south trail is strictly for the hardcore. Sweetwater had intermittent water but heavy cattle impact. This is one of the great hikes in the universe. Take a GPS and the track I posted on peagbagger.com. This hike starts on private land but no posted yet. Posted 2022, 2023.
6. ⦁ NORTH CAINEVILLE MESA el 6122  has two trails that can be used for a traverse. Leave a 4wd or fat tire ebike on highway 24 at mp 100.1. Then drive to mp 97.8 and follow an easy 4wd road around to the north side of the mesa in 7 or 8 miles. Park when close to the trail which is at N38 24145, W110 58259 el 5200. Walk over a low ridge to get at it. It goes up to the cliffs to the left of a crack then crosses to the right of the crack but a slide has hit it. It's best to just go on up to the crack from the left side. Once on top, it's a third mile to a cairn at the high point reading 24231, 57804. Then walk to the south rim at 23384, 58388 and along that then head for a wash at 22819, 59050 that leads back to the rim. Stay on the rim or near it to south trail at 21373, 59036 next to point 5429. It goes down a crack then under some boulders and on down to a flat el 5400. It drops off the flat at 21280, 59054 and goes straight down a ridge losing 700 feet in a quarter mile. At bottom, it goes over tedious hills to a cement truck ruin, but it's better to drop down to the right on the first easy little ridge just before a huge boulder then stroll to the highway. It takes nearly 5 hours to traverse the mesa with nearly 1000 noticeable gain. I didn't want to fool with no stinkin' shuttle so I parked at mp 99.3 and walked the wash around the west base to the TH. That part took 2 and a half hours then I had nearly a mile to walk on the highway when I got down. I had a about a 7 hour hike with not much loose sand. I had 2 bars of Verizon on top.  Posted 2021.
7. ⦁ THOMPSON MESA el 6040+ is 5 miles east of Notom. An abandoned jeep road goes up out of Blue Notch. Take the paved Notom Rd south out of Notom to a sign for Burro Wash Rd at N38 11212, W111 05611. Turn on that good road for 2 and a half miles  to the bottoms at Sandy Creek where there is room to camp. Then it's an OHV trail for another 3 and a half miles thru Bloody Hands Gap to a steep hill at 09806, 00767 el 5200. A fat tire ebike could make it. I parked there and walked the road to a fence at the top then left along the fence and on up to the top of the mesa. The road soon tops out on a rim el 5680 and goes in the wrong direction so I went left toward the main west rim at 10700, 00431 el 5750. Then I shortcutted a bend in the rim by heading for 11427, 00936 el 5900 then walked the rim for nearly a half mile where a bright hill got in the way. I stayed right around that then back to the rim and on to the high point at 12874, 01531. No sigh of humanity. I kept going to Thompson Benchmark at 13470, 01642 el 5975 then kept following the rim to a good view at 13770, 00533 el 5800. I then stayed on the easy ground to a break in cliffs at 13203, 00233 el 5750 then moved to the north rim when I had an easy path. I stayed on the rim around to point 5572 and then came back west following a canyon on the best part of the rim. I crossed the head of the canyon and stayed right of litttle mesa then on to 12388, 00896 el 5850 then 12080, 00888 el 5800 then 11758, 00842 el 5800 and then soon merged back to the starting route.  5 hours, 500 noticeable gain just for the high point and back. 10 hours for the whole loop with not much more noticeable gain. No recent grazing and most of the mesa has never been grazed.  This is the best mesa in the long line stretching from Caineville to Swap Mesa. Next time I'll pass by the BM to the east and cut it down to 9 hours.  A 1919 marker is on the north rim at W38 13052, W110 59464. I had 2 bars of Verizon on top. Posted 2021.
8. ⦁ WILDCAT MESA has a road until the last half mile. Go south from Notom for 9 miles to the Sandy Ranch Junction. Turn east on a main road there and go about 6 miles to the top of the mesa el 5700 then go left on road #14025. That's easy 4wd for 2 and a half miles then walk up rocky slopes to the Sandy BM at N38 07240, W111 01652 el 6050. TARANTULA MESA is farther out on the main road. Stay on it and keep right at main forks to road #14240 at N38 00580, W110 51767 and follow it up to el 7050 then walk a fifth mile to the high point at 00512, 52942 el 7194. A longer hike to do is the skinny north ridge. Keep driving SW on the mesa for 6 miles to a T. Go right for 3 miles to a rim el 6450. I had 2 bars of Verizon there. I walked nearly level on the high ground for 90 minutes to a neck at 02475, 59999 el 6400. It's only 150 feet wide with sheer cliffs on both sides. An ancient fence crosses it. I went on another 2/3 mile past the fence to peak 6459 where I could see the rest of the ridge. Nice pj forest and nearly pristine. Take a topo. All roads are easy 4wd but it's over 30 miles back to pavement. These are good cycle roads. The road on Stevens Mesa is sandy. I went as far as Indianwater Seep. A crack on the west rim goes down to the seep and a cave. All I found was one circle pecked into the rock to the left of the cave. Posted 2021.
9. ⦁ PEAK 6380 is on the west rim of Tarantula Mesa. Take the Notom Rd south into Capitol Reef NP and go nearly 5 miles south of the entrance to a cattle trail at N37 58582, W111 04238 el 5600. Walk it to a canyon at 58490, 03626 and go up that to a fork at 58582, 02683 el 5650. Go left and stay left at the next forks and the route up will be obvious. The summit is at 59153, 02916. No sign of humanity. 3 and a half hours, 800 noticeable gain. Good views because it's the highest spot around. Posted 2021.
10. ⦁ SWAP MESA is south of Tarantula Mesa. Sheer Benchmark el 6158 is the high point and can be accessed from the Notom Rd. Park along the road near N37 50663, W110 59613 el 4950 which is a route thru a minor cliff. Keep going NE into a major canyon cutting thru the cliffs of the mesa. An obvious ridge goes up to the right out of the canyon. It goes parabolic but not loose. Upon topping out on the rim, it's easier to drop to the flats because the rim is rough at first. Climb back to the rim at 50937, 58577 el 5650 then it's a cakewalk on to the BM at 49984, 56947.  6 hours and about 1000 noticeable gain and half of that is steep. Cattle graze until the last half mile. They come up an ancient road out of Swap Canyon. I had 1 bar of Verizon at the BM. I went back later and made a loop around the BM. I walked along the south base to the east canyon then up that to a side canyon at 51476, 56475 el 5250. I went west up that for .44 air mile then up the left slope to the top. I walked a nice pj forest to the descent ridge at 51166, 59161 el 5600. That took 6 hours with about 500 noticeable gain. I could have saved a half hour or more with a bike shuttle on the Notom Rd. Cattle graze on most of the route.  MESA BENCHMARK el 7102  is an easy one to the west. Drive the Burr Trail to the top of the switchbacks then on to the park boundary where pavement starts. Go another 2 miles then left on a jeep road for a mile to a fork at N37 51873, W111 07494 el 6800. The road soon turns bad but it's easy to walk to the west side where it switches up to the left to the next level el 6900 where it splits. The right fork runs level then up to the next level then goes left to the north rim and on to the reg at 51973, 08035. It takes an hour to the summit using the road. This peak is a contender for high point of the Studhorse Peaks. Good views with minimal effort. Posted 2021.
11. ⦁ SOUTH FORK OAK CREEK CANYON - I made a loop down the north rim then back up a trail in the canyon. Take highway 12 to mp 100.8 and turn on FR180. Follow that down 4 or 5 miles to FR1967 as the topo shows. Jeeps and high powered ebikes can make it that far but FR1967 is narrow and covered with bumpy little rocks. I parked at roads end in Cons Hole at the TH sign reading 03260, 17049 el 7700. I then walked north on an OHV trail to get on the rim then went over peak 7952 and used a topo on my phone to stay on the rim. There is some light brush at first then at el 7200 there are stands of ponderosa pines and I could wear shorts the rest of the hike. When I arrived on the ridge NW of peak 7210, I veered toward it to get down a cliff band then resumed going north to a game trail at 04512, 13484 el 7000. I followed that down to a cliff band then it goes left and down a crack to a flat el 6800 and no more cliffs. But a scrub barrier is along the creek so it's best to aim for a gap in it at 04663, 13139 el 6450. Then I walked an ATV trail down Oak Creek for nearly a mile to a sign pointing up the South Fork to Cons Hole in 5 miles. A stream runs for about half of it with a swim hole at 03500, 13626 el 6550. That took 7 hours, 14 minutes with maybe 1000 noticeable gain. The creeks were jumpable. The rim is in pristine condition except for some ancient cow shit. The canyons are lightly grazed and no cattle were there on June 9, 2021. SHORT VERSION - there is a possible route off the north rim south of peak 7252 at 03661, 14881 which would cut the hike in half. ONE WAY VERSION - I could drive in on FR180 for half a mile or so then walk it down to the canyon and follow trails to Lower Bowns Reservoir where a second car or ebike would be parked. That would eliminate all the nasty road driving. Posted 2021.
13. ⦁ BLACK MOUNTAIN el 6308 is along the Cathedral Valley road. I did a loop over then back along the west base. The road departs highway 24 near mp 98 and goes easy 4wd for a bit over 10 miles to a sign for Caineville Wash. I went another 2 miles on the road and stashed my Zizzo bike then came back and went up the wash and then up a ridge at N38 26977, W111 05663 to get on the easy SE ridge of the peak. I went over the summit then down the north ridge to 28224, 06771 then down to a huge clearing. I walked another clear corridor from there to 28422, 06650 then down that ridge to el 5250 where I crossed a wash to the next ridge on my right then on to a gully at 28528, 05968 el 5200 where I could drop into a chasm. I strolled up that to the base of a 200 foot fall then made a U-turn and headed for Middle Desert Wash. I cut a huge gooseneck at 28746, 06466 then checked out a good side canyon at 28841, 07030. The next big gooseneck has a faint road cutting it at 28287, 07564 then I hit water on the other side but that didn't last. I had a nearly straight shot to my bike. 6 hours, 1000 noticeable gain and all easy, 12 miles. The chasm is the highlight. Willow Seep is 8 miles or so in on the road and it had a tiny stream. No recent cattle. Posted Oct, 2023.
14. ⦁ TROUGH BENCHMARK el 6516 is high on the Moroni Slopes. A good loop up ridges starts from the south. The Factory Butte road goes north 11 miles from highway 24 to a main fork. Left goes to Salt Wash south of the peak as the topo shows. I strolled down the wash past peak 4783 then up a slope on the NW side of it at N38 30472, W110 56873. Then it's an easy ridge walk all the way. At el 6100 there is minor drop with a bypass on the left at 31541, 58792. It's class 3 and 6 feet high. No more obstacles to the summit. I descended the rim of the canyon to the west known as Cable Canyon. At el 6200 there are two crags with a sheep trail along the left side. Then there is a deep dip to cross to peak 6121 then down to a hidden ridge at 30822, 59164 el 5850. Near bottom it gets convoluted but I stayed right on a natural road at 30193, 57842 then to 30048, 57664 then the final slope at 29978, 57214. I stayed out of drainages for the whole loop. 5 and a half hours, 2200 gain, rarely steep. The drive in is easy 4wd and a car might get close enough to ebike it. Posted 2023.
15. ⦁ NEILSON WASH crosses highway 24 at mp 106.2. It's an easy loop up then back on the west rim.  I strolled up it staying left at forks but hit a 12 foot fall with a pool a quarter mile before the Factory Butte road. I retraced back to the last fork and took it to N38 23393, W110 53274 where I could exit and walk to the road at 23410, 53567 where it skirts the west fork then walk the rim back. The shortest route back to the start is a crack at 22005, 52870 but it has a 4 or 5 foot drop. The chicken route is to aim for the highway at 21995, 53248 then it's a third mile back. 2 and a half hours and hardly any strain. This would make a good moonlight walk. Posted 2023.
16. ⦁ COAL MINE WASH is a good one for a loop down then back on the far north rim. I rode my cycle in from highway 24 at mp 105.5 for 9 miles to a kiosk at the wash, but kept going 1.7 miles to N38 29860, W110 55369 and parked. Then I rode my folding bike back to the  kiosk and locked it there. I strolled down the wash for half a mile to a drop with a huge pool. A route goes down left of it and I went on to a side canyon at 28977, 52623. I went up that staying right at a main fork and in the streambed when I could to minimize eyesore tracks. Near the head of the canyon I took a left fork for 300 feet or so to a tiny gully on the right at 29587, 52794 and got out then took a game trail to the next level. I walked north on that rim along the 4800 line and eventually the 5000 line. In the last mile or so I pulled away from the rim to 30188, 54732 then to my cycle. 3 hours, 9 minutes with 100 noticeable gain. This is a great rim walk with views of the unspoiled badlands.  I would take long pants for itchy plants in the lower wash. This is so easy it makes pie look hard. The first half mile to the pool would make a good moonlight hike. Posted 2023.
17. ⦁ SKYLINE RIM  is along highway 24 between Caineville and Hanksville. I got lucky and found two routes thru the cliffs to make a one way hike. I locked my Zizzo bike to pole #565 at mp 107.8 on the highway. The I went east a mile on the highway to a ranch at a steel corral. I turned north there and stayed right at a fork for a mile to closure signs at a popular canyon. I walked to the west fork at N38 23556, W110 50212 and on up to the end where I could only go up a right fork with a minor fall. Just past that is a hidden slope up to the next level at 24037, 50186. I walked that a short way to an easy ridge to the main rim. Then I walked east to a cow trail at 24102, 49881 that goes to a point then down to the next level and then it's easy to walk a skinny peninsula until a drop blocks the way. I made a U-turn and walked the rim to a descent gully at 22688, 51560 that looked good on the sat image but hopeless in person. On second  glance I saw that I might have a shot. I dropped down then went right and had no trouble to the bottom then strolled out to my bike and had an easy 2 mile ride to the start. 3 and a half hours, 100 noticeable gain for the hike part. The west fork would be a good hike on its own. No sign of humanity in that. Posted 2023.
18. 
    

Cabin on South Caineville Mesa

Inscriptions on South Caineville Mesa

Palen McCoy Wilderness

I saw six of these rock circles in the area.

WW2 pillbox

A trail from the river into the Tank Spring area.

• The paved Midland Rd connecting Blythe to Midland is the main access. It goes north from I-10 at the Lovekin exit. At about 18 miles is a main junction at a sign for the Standard Mine. The paved road goes on north to the ghost town of Midland but just before town is a graded road forking right that runs along the east side of the wilderness to Rice on highway 62. It has sand traps. The road to the Standard Mine is graded and at a bit over 7 miles is a sign for the Arlington Mine Rd forking left. It goes west several miles then by staying right at main forks it leads to Palen Pass. That road is easy 4wd as far as the pass where I turned back and should remain so as new towers with generators have been installed along it. Posted 2021.
•  LITTLE MARIA MOUNTAINS HIGH POINT el 3000+ -  turn off the Palen Pass Rd onto a 4wd road at N33 49905, W114 56291. Go north here for about 3 miles to a pillbox in a valley south of the peak. The road forks here. The left fork crosses a wash and runs on the left edge of the valley but is washed out. Use the right fork that runs along the right side of the wash. It was in decent shape for the first mile in 2016. I decided to take a crack at an improbable frontal assault. And got lucky. I walked the road as it follows the wash curving left and enters a canyon. It shrinks to a trail running along the right bank.  When the bank ends the trail climbs a little then levels off and enters the creekbed. I stayed in this canyon as it took a right turn and climbed to a saddle at 53883,55743 el 2200. This saddle overlooks the basin below the massive cliffs of the summit area. From the saddle, I went up the ridge keeping right of center and crossed over to the left at 53939, 55768. From there I angled up to the left to get on the main summit ridge. The peak is to the right at 54014,55572. A chute on the right side of the summit block makes it easy. The Buck Benchmark is on top but no reg in 2012 but M&L must have placed one. 4 hours, 2000 gain. A very interesting peak. And unloved,  except by sheep. No falls to climb, only an occasional easy class 3 move. Posted 2012.
• TANK SPRING LOOP - this is a fake spring at the north end of the Little Maria Mtns. A good horseshoe loop can be done by going south from it and up a canyon then over the saddle next to peak 788 then down the other side and out by that canyon. It takes two 4wds spotted two and a half miles apart along the Midland Rd because that's where the wilderness boundary is. I only had one vehicle, but with two I would leave one at about N33 56172, W114 50993 then the other some 2 or 3 miles north. A VZ signal is present so lining up with the gullies is easier. I walked to the spring first . It's just a dry fall 20 or 30 feet high and not worth a detour. It's better to aim for the west bank of the ascent canyon at 56337, 57283 el 1350. I walked from there on the smoothest ground and it took me .6 mile to the far right side of the canyon floor where there are less rocks. At 55651, 56939 I crossed to the left bank. The flat bank ended in a third mile so I dropped to the smooth wash and stayed off banks until 54949, 55891 where I got on the left bank and went on another third mile to the divide saddle el 1900. I followed a sheep trail out of that to the right and it took me to a ridge where I could drop down to the wash. I got on the left bank at 54543, 55171 and stayed low and that helped for a tenth mile. I got on the right bank at 54524, 54284 and when that ended I dipped back to the bed a short way then got back on the right bank. In nearly half a mile I came to potholes then in a few feet more I hit smoother ground at 54982, 53595 which makes it east to get to the first 4wd. The potholes along there at 54943, 53655 had water, one was a foot deep and shaded. They might be huge after a big rain. With two vehicles, the loop measures out at 13 miles on the topo with hardly any noticeable gain. The canyons are pristine but the flats have some WW2 tracks though a lot of pavement is undisturbed. This is the best wilderness experience on this page. The Indians used potholes two and a half miles east of Tank Spring at 56148, 54950. Three trails radiate out from there. One runs south along the base to meet the one crossing the range. One goes to the river and one likely goes to Mopah Spring. Posted 2021.
• PEAK 846 in the Little Maria Mtns has an easy NW ridge that attracted my attention. A loop can be done by returning on the west ridge. Park on the Midland Rd along the wilderness boundary at about N33 56172, W114 50993 then walk to potholes in a major wash at 54934, 53644 el 1200. It's rocky by then but better to stay on the bank for nearly half a mile then drop to the bed a short way then get back on the left bank. When that ends, stay in the bed to the NW ridge at 54364, 54739 el 1500. Soon a minor crag is in the way but easily passed on the right then it's easy to the reg at 53821, 53992 el 2776. Placed in 1986 by M&L, no one else had signed in. Walk SE off the summit on the main ridge and stay left around two minor crags to a view at 53747, 53763 el 2550. It's obvious how to descend from there to a smooth ridge going to the left and down to the flats. 6 hours with 1300 noticeable gain. The app put it at 13 miles. I saw more potholes at 54653, 54105. Some good pavement is on the return leg. This loop might benefit from having two 4wds spotted on the Midland Rd. PEAK 879 - I could see that I could easily walk the west base of the ridge I ascended to get to the north ridge of peak 879 then cut over to peak 846. That would add an hour and 500 gain and a bit steeper. Hiking in from the south would be shorter but tougher terrain and not as scenic. Posted 2021.
• WEST PEAK el 2800+ is what I call the one 1.7 miles NW of Little Maria HP. The NW ridge is easy. Drive the Palen Pass Rd to a road forking right at N33 50234, W114 56960. Go nearly 5 miles on easy 4wd to a trench that was still driveable in 2021. Drive or walk on to the end of the road at a mine el 1400 west of the peak. I walked the bank for a couple hundred feet past the mine and found an easy way down to the wash on bedrock. I went up on the far bank and had an easy walk until the bank merged with the wash. I went on up that to a drainage on the left at 54824, 57833 el 1600. That made it easy to get up to a saddle el 1850 to the right of a nipple. I then went up the ridge to a saddle on the main ridge at 55008, 57828 el 2100. I followed an easy sheep trail on the ridge to peak 767 meters and thought " there's no way sheep skirted that nasty mess". Wrong! The trail goes steadily up along the right side and into the saddle then I stayed left of center to a notch at 54737, 57167 el 2700 where I could see  the peak a fifth mile to the south. The reg is at the east end with only a few entries since 1978. From the end of the road el 1400, that took 3 hours with 1500 gain.  Recent tire tracks were at the end of the road. A WW2 pillbox is at 53896, 58576 el 1150. Posted 2021.
• LITTLE MARIA INDIAN TRAIL - this cuts across the range at saddle 479 meters, likely running from the intaglios trail to Horn Springn. Take the Lovekin exit at Blythe and go north on pavement for about 18 miles to a sign for the Standard Mine. Go west there on graded road for a bit over 7 miles to a fork at N33 49312, W114 51630 ( if blocked, you can go on to a tower and come back). Turn left on easy 4wd and go NW for 2 and a half miles to a big wash. Cross over and turn right and the trail climbs up onto the right bank of a wash at 52134, 53246 el 1300. Park 700 feet short of it and walk the right side of a hill to get at it. It runs faint to 52281, 53163 where it's easy to follow across the divide saddle and down to the flats. It enters the Palen McCoy Wilderness at that saddle. I decided to loop back by walking SE to high ground at 53305, 52088 el 1100 which led to a game trail and into a wash and up on the left bank. I got on a left bank again at 52955, 51864 el 1200 then on to the right bank of a major wash at 52596, 51771 el 1350. That bank is easy for a third mile where a minor crag blocks it. I went up near the top of it then cut left on a safe ledge and was able to stay on the right bank all the way to 52274, 52289 el 1850 where I climbed high ground between forks to get to the divide saddle el 2100. Peak 2542 looked like an easy climb to the north but I skipped it. From the saddle, I moved right to a smooth ridge down to the wash then had an easy walk on the left bank out to the flats and back to the start. 4 hours with all easy gain except for 500 to the saddle near peak 2542. This hike is 99 percent free of modern eyesores and the banks make for easy walking.  Posted 2021.
• PALEN MOUNTAINS HIGH POINT el 3848 - the north ridge is the easiest route. Walking from the Palen Pass Rd would be a 6 mile hike to the summit. Jeeps can use WW2  roads to get 2 miles closer. Take the Arlington Mine Rd to the Pattons Cabin Rd at N33 49708, W114 56032 and go west on that to a WW2 road at 48749, 58538. Go north on that and enter a major wash at 49373, 58918 and cross it to a road on the far side at 49481, 58868. Walk it first. Then go north for nearly a mile on a faint road to a minor trench blocking the way then veer left in a wash at 50229, 58973. Soon trees will force you up on the left bank then cut over to the right bank of the wash at 50395, 59060.  Proceed on to another wash at 50668, 59228 and drive that to pavement at 50753, 59319 and then it's half a mile to a rough wash blocking the way. Cycles can cross it and go on another 3/4 mile, almost to the wilderness boundary. All remaining coordinates are W115. Then walk to a major wash at N33 51192, W115 00899 and cross to the far bank. Stroll on up until the bank ends then cross over to the ascent ridge. It starts out rough so it's better to go up a drainage on the right side at 50950, 01704 el 1750. It will lead to a minor saddle el 1950 on the ridge then it's decent. The ridge will steepen and boulders will get in the way but that's cured by walking left of center. The ridge eases up and broadens at el 2600. Sheep beds cover the area as well as a few recent tracks. Go on up to the summit ridge and cross over on sheep trails to the west side at a saddle reading 50155, 02321 el 3700. Then walk level under the summit to a gully at 50065, 02362 el 3750 and go up then turn left to the reg. It took me 5 and a half hours, starting at the 310 meter line near the wilderness boundary. It's 2400 gain from the base. The drive in there is a piece of cake for serious 4 wheelers. A shovel and pocket saw would be handy.  I put GPS tracks on peakbagger.com.  Walking from the Palen Pass Rd would be the easiest drive. I saw a flattened concrete building along there at 51042, 58610 and another one a fifth mile west. Foxholes and assorted junk dot the area.  Posted 2021.
• NORTH PALEN PEAK el 905 meters is what I call the next one north of the highest peak. The NE ridge is easy. I went in the same way as for the high peak then at the rough wash I stayed north on the bank and turned west at N33 51988, W115 00080 then came to a T in about a fifth mile. I moved left a few feet to a road on the next pavement and stayed straight on that for 2/3 mile to a rock field and parked. I walked along the smooth, far right edge of a valley toward the peak then stayed on the right bank of a deep wash to get at the smoothest part of the NE ridge at 51695, 01977 el 1750. I went up to 51457, 02248 el 2600 where I could see the summit. I took an easy angle up to cross a saddle el 2650 then on to the summit el 2969. No sign of humanity. 3 hours, 20 minutes with 1400 noticeable gain. This peak is so easy it makes pie look hard. Posted 2021.
• PETER PALEN PEAK el 899 meters is 3 miles south of Palen Pass. WW2 roads can be used by jeeps to get to the east ridge.  I followed the Palen Pass Rd then turned on a sketchy WW2 road at N33 52719, W114 58771. I went toward a hill and along the north side aiming for a road at 52661, 59639 on the west bank of a major wash. A row of trees on the east bank blocked me, so I jogged north a little to find a gap thru then came down the wash to the road and took it out to deep gully outside the wilderness boundary. I walked across the gully to pavement on the far bank at N33 53027, W115 00598 el 1100. I then strolled to the ascent ridge at 53012, 01372 el 1300 where dozens of shallow foxholes stretched for half a mile. I stayed on the ridge to survey junk on the summit at 52739, 02906 el 2949. Tom Budlong left a note in a Coke can in 1999 and put the peak name on it. No one signed in since but there's no pencil. I walked off the summit on a spotty sheep trail to the south saddle then went down the canyon. At 52402, 02219 el 1600, I got on the left bank and kept drifting left and soon hit WW2 tracks and walked back on the flats and saw more foxholes. 4 hours, noticeable gain. Posted 2021.1600 
• GRANITE BENCHMARK el 4331 is the high point of the Granite Mountains. The west ridge is the easiest. Drive the Palen Pass Rd to the Packard Well road at N33 55370, W115 02418. Take that for half a mile to a hidden fork just past a white hill. Left is washed out, so stay right. Jeeps can make it to the end of the road that shows on the topo. Others might start dragging bumpers about halfway along. There's an Indian trail on the north side of peak 555 that can be walked as an alternative. I picked up the trail near the well at 56082, 04385 el 1650 and followed it to the well then on down the wash and climbed out at 56091, 04984 el 1600. I headed for the bank of a wash at 56412, 05197 el 1750 and walked up that for .4 mile then cut left over a low ridge and followed a game trail into a mega wash. I got on the left bank of that at 57079, 05538 el 2000 and when that played out I walked smooth channels on the left edge of the wash. I got up onto a point at 57872, 05631 el 2350 and walked up into a right fork on a flat bank and when it ended I cut over to a smooth ridge at 58164, 05382 el 2650. The ridge goes up with no issues until a cliff at el 3700. I walked around the left side then up to the top where tedious class 2 rock was in the way. I should have stayed low for another tenth mile where the DPS route A merges in at el 3900. That route goes on up the ridge staying left of center to 58260, 04604 el 4200 where it levels off and goes east a quarter mile to the summit. A China Lake Naval crew left a book there. I retraced back down to 58099, 04778 el 3850 which is the route A ridge. I splits just below that and the left ridge is the correct one. It goes down to point 996 but it gets rough there so at 57931, 04720 el 3350 I dropped off to the left into the canyon which is route B. I walked down that using short banks but at 57661, 04641 el 2800 I got on the right bank and that went a fur piece. I then cut over to the left bank but that's rocky. Instead, I should have got back on the right bank again as it is smooth on out to the flats. Then I just aimed for the well which is at 56061, 04655. It's a long drop to the water in it. That took 6 hours, 20 minutes and strenuous gain doesn't start until el 2600. I put a track on peakbagger.com. Posted 2021.
• MIDLAND is a ghost town abandoned by US Gypsum in 1966. A museum is set up there in a classic trailer with old photos. The paved part of the Midland Rd leads into the town. A paved road goes on west then south to the main mine where the road is blocked at a wash. I strolled on down the wash and climbed easy slopes at W33 50426, W114 48494 el 1000 to get on the south ridge of VERA BENCHMARK. I walked the ridge right of center to get past rough stuff and on to the BM el 1452. TV PEAK el 552  meters is north of town. A loop can be done. Walk along the RR grade to a washed out road at 52634, 48208 el 1200 that goes up a canyon to the main ridge. The road goes on to the north ridge of the peak then up the ridge to junk on the summit el 1811. Power poles running down the mountain have been cut down. DOT BENCHMARK is on the south ridge at 52302, 48930 el 1714 then it's just a matter of picking a route down to town. These hikes are less than half a day. The RR grade connecting Midland to Blythe has been converted to a road. I road my cycle south from Midland and only had to bypass 2 or 3 trestles. The grade is blocked just before it crosses the Midland Rd but there is a dirt road going uphill to connect thru. The grade is good for mtn bikes. I also rode north on it over the pass and turned back at a bad trestle out in the flats. Posted 2021.

 

North ridges of Palen high point