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Monday, January 22, 2018

Big Maria Mountains Wilderness

Uncle Bob's cabin

High peaks of the Big Maria Mtns

Gary Scott Hogan memorial on Quien Sabe BM.

  • The Lovekin exit at Blythe accesses the west side of the Big Maria Mountains. It's a paved road that runs north and morphs into the Midland Road. Pavement ends about 20 miles north of town with places to park RVs including one LTVA. Smart And Final is the cheapest grocery in town. Take the 7th St. exit and go north just past the Albertsons and it's on the left. RVs can park on the east side along US 95 at a curve sign at mp RIV 22.7. Posted 2018.
  • BIG MARIA MOUNTAINS HIGH POINT el 3381 - Take the Lovekin exit at Blythe. Go north about 14 miles on the paved road toward Midland to a 4wd power line road. Go north on this about 7 air miles and park near pole # 448 at N33 52627, W114 41664. Head up the wash to an easy ridge on the left at 52813, 40991. Go up the ridge then veer left to a saddle at 52667, 40622 el 2000+. Go across a shallow canyon then angle up the other side and continue up the ridge to the top at 52078, 40143 el nearly 3400. 3 hours, 2300 gain. The road has some nasty spots near pole #448 but you could still make the hike even if you get stopped. The road gets some maintenance. ORIGINAL BIG MARIA el 3379 is what hikers thought was the high point of the range until 1980. Keep going north on the power road and park at pole 43-7. You can go up the ridge at N33 53831, W114 41360 but it's easier to swing left into the wash and walk the right bench to a little ridge at 53560, 41072 that goes up to the main ridge. On the main ridge contour left at 53160, 40828 el 2600 to miss a bump. Contour left again at 53155, 40524 el 3050 to miss another big one. More small bumps follow, the last being the summit at 52698, 39798. 4 hrs, 2400 gain. The register had dates back to 1955. In 1980, new maps showed  peak 3381 to the south as being 2 feet higher. Thus the higher peak became the new high point. There may be a cliff blocking the ridge between the two summits. It wouldn't be hard to kick 2+ feet of dirt off peak 3381 and make this the highest one again. PEAK 2449 is an easy one 2 miles SE of the high point. Turn off the power road at 50231, 42366 and drive nearly 2 miles east to the mouth of a canyon el 1200. The road was bladed right over an Indian trail. A ghost road goes on to the pass, but I like to use the Indian trail that branches off to the left in 3 different places. The first is at 50318, 40125 then 50193, 39493 and the last at 50260, 39052 goes shortly to the pass el 1750. Then a faint trail goes north up the easy ridge to the summit at 50729, 38989.  3 hours with 1250 gain. This is an oddball peak because it has smooth slopes. Posted 2019.
  • WEST MARIA BENCHMARK el 2870 is a triple summit in the western Big Maria Mtns.The SW ridge is craggy but the canyon to the right of it goes. Turn off the Midland Rd at N33 50916, W114 46531. Keep going on 4wd to a point at 51971, 46543. The road goes around the point then is soon washed out on the bank of a wash at a fork. Walk the left fork and stay left at all forks until you reach a sharp wash. Cross over and go to a sheep trail at a minor saddle reading 52591, 46317. Keep going on the trail another 400 feet then go right up the main canyon to your right. Be sure to get on the left bank at 52786, 46063. Go up canyon then go left to a gully at 53040, 45911. The mouth of the gully has short vertical walls and is half blocked by a boulder. Go up the gully almost to the ridge top then turn right and stay right of crags and shortly it opens up and it's easy up the ridge to the BM and reg. 4 hours, 1900 gain. ALTERNATE - the RR grade has been converted to a road so now it's easy to drive or bike it to the north ridges. Updated 2021.
  • EAGLE NEST PEAK is what I call an oddball peak in the western part of the Big Maria Mtns. It's geologically different than its neighbors. Take the Midland Rd to a 4wd road at N33 50373, W114 46190. Take that or one of the parallel tracks straight for 2 miles to a major canyon. It's smoother to get on a parallel track on the right .9 mile in from the pavement. Go a quarter mile on that to a rock pile on the right. Turn to the rock pile and cross the gully behind it and now you're on the final track to the canyon. The reading there is 51347, 45868. Hike up canyon using the lowest road segments on the left bank, stay off the right bank until 52490, 45311 where a game trail helps a little. At a fork reading 52673, 44888, go right to the next  fork. Go right again and follow the gully to the ridge top. Now go right up the final summit block to the high point of the light colored rock reading 52495, 44752. It's easy to keep going to a higher dark peak. I wanted to return directly back down the obvious main canyon. From the dark peak I circled the head of the canyon to 52307, 44880 where I started down to the left. Not straight down, I switched back on a shelf for an easier grade and got to the rocky creekbed. I saw a baby rattler down near the mouth. At the bottom I turned right on a road along the base for a half mile back to the start. 4 hours, 1200 gain. Interesting hike. That rattler is all grown up now and just waiting for somebody to walk by. Posted 2015.
  • TOSCO BENCHMARK el 2329 is the high peak in the south Big Maria Mtns. The NW canyon goes. Turn off the Midland Rd at N33 43002, W114 38563. Go 3 miles on easy 4wd and park next to a mega wash. Walk across the wash to a small flat on the other side reading 45472, 37654. Follow the high ground as it circles to a low ridge at 45569, 37179. Go up that and now you're on the rim of the NW canyon. Walk the rim until it gets rough then drop down to the right into the creekbed.  Walk up canyon to a major fork at 45950,36311. Get on the bench between the forks and walk to 45980,35943 where you cross over to the right bank. Stay on the right bank for a quarter mile to a major fork then cross to the left bank. Go on up the left fork. It steepens and curves right.  At 45722, 35547 near the top you come to 2 gullies. Take the left one to the ridge top then go left to the reg at 45630, 35505. 4 and a half hours, 1700 gain. There is some class 3 near the top but not scary. An Indian trail is just across the mega wash at the start. It cuts across the range to the intaglios. Posted 2015.
  • TOSCO CANYON is what I call an easy canyon in the SW part of the Big Maria Mountains Wilderness. A loop can be done. Take the Midland Rd to a paved strip with a chain link fence reading N33 42550, W114 38015. Go left around the edge of the strip on a crude road then keep going 2 or 3 miles and park half a mile from the mouth of the canyon which reads 44421, 36575 el 750. Walk easy desert pavement to the mouth then go up canyon 3/4 air mile to a main fork reading 44982, 36223. Walk the bench between the forks until it fizzles then go on up the left fork to the head of the canyon then veer left a short way to a saddle at 45540, 36489 el 1100. Go down the other side on game trails to the main wash at the bottom. Go down the wash and exit on the right at 45464, 37061 el 850 and walk the rim to an Indian trail at 45341, 37342. Walk the trail and it soon fades in the wash but keep going to the road at 45094, 37252 and then it's less than a mile on that back to the start. The loop took me 2 hours and the gain was hardly noticeble. OHVs try to get in these canyons but are blocked by rocks. Posted 2016.
  • INTAGLIO INDIAN TRAIL LOOP - a loop can be made using the trail that cuts across the range from the intaglios. Turn off the Midland Rd at N33 43002, W114 38563. Go 3.3 miles on easy 4wd and park next to a mega wash. Walk across the wash to the trail at 45571, 37724. Follow it east on the bank to where it drops into the wash and gets lost in the rocks. It resumes again at 46601, 37487 and climbs up a low ridge. It goes along the top of that then drops left and gets fuzzy. Along here somewhere is where the main trail over to the intaglios departs to the left, but bulldozers got it. Pick up a nearby spur trail at 46936, 37203 and soon it swings to the right along a side wash. It drops into that wash but you can stay high on a fainter trail. Either way, soon you'll come to a road crossing the wash. Go right on the road and it goes over a rise then down to the wash. The road crosses the wash and goes along the left bank, but the trail goes along the right bank for nearly a fifth mile then drops in at pothloles. I couldn't find it again after that. To make a loop, follow the road south from there for half a mile to a low saddle. Go thru and down the canyon. One useful game trail to use is at 46260, 36044 on the right bank. It goes past potholes then a trench blocks the way. Walk down the trench to the main wash and go 200 feet to a minor fall then a trail resumes on the right bank again. It cuts a corner then drops to the creekbed. Keep going and stay off the high banks then get on the right rim at 45785, 36813 and walk that down to the desert pavement then it's obvious back to the start. Under 4 hours, not steep. Updated 2021.
  • INDIAN CAVE TRAIL - this trail is in the SE part of the Big Maria Mtns. Drive US 95 to a gravel road at mp RIV 14.4. If that road is locked, use a mtn bike or drive south a half mile to Villas Shores Rd and go west on 4wd to the power line road and come back on that to the gravel road. Another way is to come in at mp 15 and get on the power line road but then a dike is in the way. Go west around it to the gravel road. Take the gravel road for a mile and a half to the legal end at a barrier. Hike the road to where it bends thru a quarry. Shortcut the bend on an Indian trail at N33 46425, W114 32922. It goes along the left side of a gully, ignore the trail on the right side.  The trail goes thru a saddle then across a rocky wash and you'll be back on the road again. Soon the road forks. Go right to get on an Indian trail at 46124, 33557. Follow the trail along the right bank for .26 air mile then drop to the creekbed down a gully. Go on up the bed for a quarter air mile to a washed out road on the left. Go up that to get on the left bank and walk the trail to a major fork in the wash reading 46348, 34399 el 850. It's a short walk on the trail up the left fork to the cave. The Indians didn't stop there. A loop can be done using a trail going up the canyon. At the major fork below the cave, go up the right fork to 46482, 34547 and get on the trail on the left bank. Big pools were along here from recent rains. The trail goes along nicely until a side wash cuts it off. Drop back to the creekbed at that point and go up a short way to the next side wash and get back on the left bank there. Next, a minor hill is in the way. The trail goes along the left side of it then back thru a low saddle behind it to get back to the main wash. Soon the canyon splits into 3 main forks. The trail goes up the right one. I crossed over to it at 46722, 35022 el 1000 where there was a 3 foot deep pool from recent rains. The trail goes up the right fork then fades where it enters a mini gorge. Soon it exits that and comes to a washed out road. Turn right on the road to a fork at 46966, 34970 el 1050 then go left up to a saddle el 1150 where you can look down a canyon that runs parallel to the one you came up. Get off the road there and walk a trail that runs down the ridge separating the two canyons. After nearly half a mile on that trail it's better to drop down to 46745, 34537 el 950 and walk the left bank. This canyon goes back to the start but gets too rocky. It's best to cut thru a saddle at 46447, 34242 el 900 which is right across from the cave. Then the left bank can be walked on out though it has some minor hills. That loop, from the TH back to TH, took me 4 hours with hardly anything steep. LOOP 2 - a second loop can be made, but harder. From the cave, go on up the canyon nearly half a mile to the first main side canyon on the left. Go up that to a saddle reading 45949, 34707 el 1400. Go down the other side using faint game trails left of the creekbed. It's easy to stay up on the left bank for half a mile until there is no more bank. Drop to the easy bed and stay in it down thru a mini gorge to a road at 45454, 33626 el 800. That road is soon gone but a trail on the left bank goes up to a saddle. A million trails are here but stay level on one to fork at 45777, 33824 and go left all the way down the ridge to the main wash you started in. A road is out in the middle that I used to walk back on. At one place the road is cut off, so I went to 46087, 33472 to safely get down to the bed and walked back to the quarry. 4 and a half hours for the loop and 500 feet of gain that you will notice. Just going to the cave and back would be 3 hours. There is an alternate way to return with one rappel. Stash gear near the quarry on the way in then on the way out get on a trail at 46313, 32744. Go thru a saddle then be on the correct trail at 46257, 32604. It goes along the base of peak 1038 then drops into the wash draining NE around the peak. There is one fall maybe 50 feet high with a good anchor. I got around it on the right on an exposed class 3 route. A road at the mouth goes back to Villas Shores Rd. OHVs can't get far in on these roads because floods have cut trenches.  Posted 2016.
  • UNCLE BOB'S CABIN is a mine cabin in the eastern Big Maria Mtns Wilderness. A loop hike can be done. Take US 95 to mp RIV 23.3. Turn up a wash on 4wd road 929. It goes up the wash a short way then up onto the left bank. Follow it for about 3 miles then go left for a third mile to a fork reading N33 52460, W114 34425. Turn west there and go half a mile thru a rocky area then it smooths out for a bit over a mile to the end el 900 on the high bank of a wash. I could see another road on the north side of the wash that might be better, but would add 15 minutes to the hike. Walk west up the bank and soon it's easy to drop down to the wash. Go up into the left fork and get on the left bank at 52415, 36755 el 950. A faint trail here marked by cairns looked like an Indian trail. It goes along the left bank then cuts over to the right bank and then the right bank ends and it's better to stay in the wash all the way up to a fork at 51428, 37847 el 1150. A tiny intermittent stream was flowing for the last quarter mile to that fork, from rains a week earlier. Go left at the fork and it soon smooths out and road remnants appear. One going steep up the right bank is useful. Keep going up canyon to a saddle on the left at 50382, 38000 el 1500. Stay in the creekbed until your GPS reads 500 feet from the saddle then go thru and turn right on a trail that circles down into the canyon on the other side. Right away there is a minor drop in the main creekbed. Use a trail on the right rim that goes out on a point then drops down the right side of the point. Next, get on the right bank at 50317, 37761 el 1250 and walk a trail for a quarter mile to another point then it drops down the left side. Then go down to a trail on the left bank at 50148, 37195 el 1100 and go a quarter mile then cross to an unused road on the right bank. That soon comes to a camp where the cabin is. 4wds come in that far but it's so rough that I wouldn't even if it was legal. Keep walking on the road to a trail on the left bank at 50455, 35895 el 850. Walk NW on that thru a saddle el 1000 then down a valley and get on the next trail at 51004, 35968 el 750. Then just follow the easy ground and cross a sharp wash at 51798, 35521 el 700 then on to the last wash at 52034, 35425 el 700. Now it's a mile up that to the start. That 9 mile loop took me 5 and a half hours. Not steep, but has some rocky sections. There are lot of undisturbed washes and desert pavement here. Posted 2016.
  • UNCLE BOB'S PEAK el 2254 is what I call a peak that sits a mile and a half NW of Uncle Bob's cabin. A loop can be done. Take US 95 to mp RIV 17.3 and turn on road #908. Go 3 and a half miles on easy 4wd to where the road drops into a deep wash el 700. Only rock crawlers go beyond there. Mtn bikes could make the first 3 miles in from the highway. Walk up the canyon on the rough road for 1.4 air miles to the cabin el 1000. Keep going up canyon to a fork in the road and take the right fork crossing to the right bank and soon the road fades. Keep going on the bank and turn up a canyon at N33 50255, W114 37214 el 1200. Go up canyon on the right bank to the saddle el 1800 at the head. Now a game trail goes on toward the summit. Survey junk is on top. Next, walk 50 feet east from the summit cairn and go left down the first gully. The gully reads 51051, 37434 el 2250. Go down losing 300 feet then it's easy to move right and walk the ridge. Go down to el 1700 and turn right down another easy ridge to the valley floor where a scenic moonscape awaits. Then it's easy to walk the left bank then back to the right bank and then down a point to the creekbed. Walk the bed a short way then an obvious trail goes up on the left bank. That ends then it's back in the bed to the next trail on the left at 51259, 36307 el 800. Go .13 air mile on that to a deep gully where there is an option to cross over to the right bank. I prefer that because the left bank soon has tire tracks. Get on the right bank and take a trail at 51149, 36050 el 800 that goes a little higher then come back to the wash on a trail at 51155, 35616 el 700. Go down the wash for a fifth air mile then take a trail going up onto the right bank. Stay on the far right bank to another trail at 51055, 35059 el 600. Go up that trail to skirt a couple of sharp side washes. The last trail is at 50902, 34742 el 600. Go SW on that on the left bank of a wash for a third mile and then climb up to the left and walk the top for the last quarter mile back to the start. That loop took me nearly 5 hours. The only gain that mattered was the 1000 feet up the peak. I thought I would be stumbling on rocks all day, but it wasn't bad at all. Posted 2017.. 
  • MARIE BENCHMARK el 2575 is a jagged twin summit overlooking the main Indian corridor thru the Big Maria Mtns. Turn off the Midland Rd at N33 43002, W114 38563. Go 5 miles on easy 4wd and park at a dip in the road el 1050. A mine trail leaves the road right there reading 47186, 37535. Follow it across 2 washes into a third wash which is the canyon running west of the peak. The trail climbs high along the left bank and then you'll merge with old roads which end at el 1400. Those roads have no legal access. It's easy to keep going up along the left bank then right bank. At 47953, 37593 el 1900 start up along the left side of a drainage. After a distance of 500 feet veer right on easy ground to the west summit at 47900, 37337. A reg dates back to 1932. The BM is lower and .4 mile east, but crags and a saddle are in the way. Walk to a viewpoint at 48012, 37220 where you can see a route across the saddle and up the other side in a chute left of center. At the top of the chute it's easy walking on a level shelf right of center. Where that shelf starts downhill, cross back over left of center. A cairn was there so some maniac was there ahead of me. Walk low along the left side and it's obvious how to get to the survey junk at 47992, 36910. I couldn't find a BM. Now go down the north slope to a minor saddle at 48122, 37012 el 1900 where crags are in the way. Walk down the ridge right of center on an easy shelf to get past the crags then stay on the ridge to the bottom. Looking back up, you won't believe you traversed that mess. Circle right on roads around the base of the peak. Use the Indian trail at 47717, 36317 to shortcut the road. It drops into a wash and goes down the bed a tenth mile then exits left at some big dead trees. Soon it merges with the road. Stay on the road in the wash to a side wash at 47057, 37263 and it's a third mile back to the start. 5 hours, about 2000 gain, easy class 3. Just doing the west summit and back would be 3 hours and 1600 gain. Posted 2016.
  • BLACK POINT has a 4wd road up to towers. Leave US 95 just south of mp RIV 12. In a half mile is a flat where the BLM fenced off geoglyphs, but bulldozers got there first. These designs are best seen on the satellite image. A BM is on top south of the towers. Posted 2016.
  • QUIEN SABE BENCHMARK el 2258 is in an isolated NE corner of the Big Maria Mountains Wilderness. The SE ridge is easy. Take US 95 to mp RIV 23.3. Turn up a wash on 4wd road 929. It goes up the wash a short way then up onto the left bank. Follow it to road 927 reading N33 53448, W114 34328. Turn right on 927 for half a mile to the next fork and go left. In half a mile an Indian trail can be seen dropping off to the left and on toward a pass, but then to what? Stay on the road to the legal end  on the SE ridge at el 1100. Hike the ridge to the BM at 54965, 36849. The last fifth mile looks rocky but easy paths go thru. A shiny chrome memorial is on the summit for Gary Scott Hogan. 2 hours, 1200 gain. Posted 2018.
    1996 map

    Indian trail heading toward Marie BM



Monday, December 25, 2017

Nopah Range Wilderness

Agave pit in the high basin between Nopah Peak and Nopah BM.

Charred wood in a cave downstream from the agave pit.




  • NOPAH BENCHMARK el 6400 is the high point of the Nopah Range. The SE canyon is the easiest route. Drive to a faint path at the wilderness boundary along side the Tecopa highway at N35 57879, W115 59759 el 2800. Hike the path NW up the valley for a couple miles. Then it makes a hard left to the west a short way and then goes NW again. Pick it up again at  N35 59381, W116 01902. At about 3 and a half air miles from the start, the path goes too far left, so just stay on a trajectory to the head of the valley. Go up the valley then it shrinks to a gully and puts you in a saddle on a ridge at N36 00791, W116 03989 el 5000. Go up the ridge on a heavily used sheep trail until it levels off at 5800. Now you're on the rim of a small basin between the peaks. Nopah Peak is to the right. Nopah BM, the highest in the range, is to the left. It's best to drop a little into the basin then work over to the north ridge which has less scree than the east ridge. The reg is at N36 00383, W116 04839. No doubt you'll be stunned like I was to see an agave pit in the basin at N36 00785, W116 04482. There seems to be no limit to where the Indians could go. I went downstream from the pit for 4/10 air mile and found a tiny cave on the right bank with some charred wood inside. Less than 10 minutes down from that is where the serious falls start. 7 hours, 3700 gain without any side trips. Add an hour and 600 gain for the side trip to Nopah Peak. On the descent, when I got to the saddle el 5000, I stayed on the ridge and went up a little then used  a sheep route skirting little crags on their right. About 600 feet past the saddle I came to a major gully and went down that to the main canyon floor. This is only good as a down route because it's steeper. The coordinates for the valley path are N35 57879, W115 59759 then N35 58087, W116 00665 then N35 58634, W116 01411 then N35 59202, W116 01670 then N35 59381, W116 01902. Missing the path is not a disaster as the valley floor is not too rough. If I were to backpack in, I would only go as far as some bedrock in the main wash at N36 00431, W116 03269 el 4200 and set up dry camp. This route is nearly 14 miles roundtrip, whereas the SW ridge route is about 11, but much steeper. SHORT VERSION - a mile each way can be shaved off by starting near the dry lake but it's steeper and won't save time. Go north on the east side road from the Spanish Trail highway for a mile and a quarter then walk to the left bank of a wash at N35 59527, W116 01123. Walk that until gullies get in the way then climb up toward a small block on the skyline. Part way up there is an obvious shelf that leads at an easy angle to the main saddle on the rim of the SE canyon. I prefer this route because it's not as monotonous. Posted 2022
    • NOPAH BENCHMARK WEST ROUTE - the south ridge to east ridge is the easiest route on the west side but nobody uses it.  Take highway 178 to mp 48.4 then go .6 mile on a graded road to where it bends right. Stay straight on easy 4wd on private land for about a mile to a fork in a clearing reading N36 00410, W116 10510, a fifth mile past a tank. Take the right fork and go a mile toward the peak to a T well inside BLM land. I parked there, but should have gone south from there for over a  mile to get half a mile closer. Walk the flats to the south ridge at N35 59253, W116 05224 el 3500. Go up that to a sheep trail at N35 59971, W116 05034 el 4750 that skirts a canyon then keep going up on the easy ground to the east ridge el 5200. It's obvious how to go on up to the summit at N36 00383, W116 04839. I skipped the peak and stayed on sheep trails at el 5300 then crossed a minor canyon and on up to the left side of a big rock knob reading N36 00572, W116 05284 el 5400. I went down the ridge from there for a  tenth mile to a perch where the abyss of upper Nopah Falls is in view. The roundtrip to the peak and back is a  dozen miles with 4300 gain, taking 8 or 9 hours. It doesn't get steep until the east ridge at el 5200. The SE canyon route is a couple of miles longer, but it doesn't have private land issues or 4wd roads. And you can access Nopah Peak as a side trip. Posted 2017.
    • PEAK 1582 (meters) is one of the many minor peaks on the crest between Pahrump Peak and Nopah Peak. Nobody goes in there, but sheep have a decent route up. Take highway 178 to mp 48.4 then go .6 mile on a graded road to where it bends right. Stay straight on private land for about a mile to a fork in a clearing a fifth mile past a tank. Get on the correct road there at N36 00476, W116 10512 and stay on it to a T at dry Twelvemile Spring. Walk the rocky flats to a wash at 01716, 08249 el 2450 and go up that for half an air mile to a fork. Get on a faint trail between the forks marked by cairns. It has to be Indian. It goes to a minor ridge at 02185, 07320 el 2800 and heads towards the mouth of the main canyon ahead but fades in the main wash. Follow the main canyon around a left bend then go straight up the left side at 02888, 06445 el 3300 to get on the west rim. A sheep trail goes up the rim then around the left side of a crag where the rest of the route up the rim comes into view. It levels off at el 4800 then joins the crest where a good sheep trail goes south to peak 1582. For a shortcut back, I dropped down the south side of the peak in a canyon reading 03245, 05808 el 4950 and went down thru a choke point with a few short class 3 drops, the highest being 5 feet. The canyon opens up at el 4400 then I went right to a smooth flat ridge at 03075, 06117 el 4450. I knew I was home free from there because I saw the remaining route from the west rim. I went straight down the other side of the ridge to 03074, 06196 el 4200 and then dropped down to the right in a gully, encountering some steep class 3 bedrock along the way. At el 3800 I went left out of the gully and followed a ridge down to the main canyon that I started in. That took me 8 hours with about 2000 gain from the flats. It's class 2 to the peak, then some class 3 the way I came down but I never thought I had a chance of falling. I saw 3 large cairns on the crest. Posted 2017.
    • CHOKESTONE CANYON is what I call the enticing canyon 2 and a half miles south of Pahrump Peak. Take highway 178 to mp 48.4 then go .6 mile on a graded road to where it bends right. Stay straight on private land for about a mile to a fork in a clearing a fifth mile past a tank. Get on the correct road there at N36 00476, W116 10512 and stay on it to a T at dry Twelvemile Spring. Turn left there for a mile and a half then walk to N36 02900, W116 08943 el 2400. Don't drift left or you'll have more rocks. Then go on to 03129, 08624 el 2500 and stay on the high ground to 03796, 07809 el 3050. Drop down there then walk the left bank into the narrows. A 5 foot chokestone stopped me in the narrows. I'll go back with a gator hook and make a loop hike.  The road goes on 2 and a half miles to the highway at mp 53.5. It's easy 4wd but has a million tiny dips. Posted 2o17.
    • PAHRUMP PEAK el 5700 is the major peak at the north end of the range. Take 372 to 178 then go to a dirt road just east of mp 53.50. Park at the closed road sign el  2400. "Closed" means I walk and everybody else just keeps on driving. It's 2 miles up the road to the canyon mouth. Start up canyon on the right at first then look for miner trail remnants to use. Don't miss the one at N36 05618, W116 09420. It goes along the left bank for 400 feet then crosses to the right. Go up to a main fork at 05825, 08900 el 4100. Keep to the right fork and go up to 05874, 08594 el 4700 where you go up the slope on the right to get to a saddle on the ridgetop at 05825, 08521 el 5000. Go up the ridge staying left of crags then an obvious hiker route takes you up a chute back up to the ridgetop at roughly 05823, 08525 el 5400. The remaining 300 feet has some minor crags on the way to the reg at 05948, 08395. 5 hours,3300 gain. A good stick helps. On the way down,a shortcut trail can be used at the main fork. It's hard to find on the way up.
    • EMIGRANT BM el 5800+  is a major peak on the crest south of Nopah Peak. The east ridge is a good route but steep in places.  Drive the Tecopa highway to a cattleguard at N35 57033, W116 00013. Follow an easy 4wd road west for 2 miles to the end el 3200. Walk the flats for a half mile to a wide gully at 57302, 02352. Go up the gully to the saddle el 4250. Half way up the gully is a smooth rib on the left side of the creekbed that works. When it fizzles just stay on the left bank. From the saddle, it's an obvious route to the reg. There are no hidden saddles to deal with. At about 57513, 03032 el 5000 I started angling up to the left to lessen the grade and avoid scree. I stayed left of center on sheep routes all the way to the reg at 57644, 03564. 5 hours, 2600 gain. The reg had no entries since placement 14 years earlier, but there was no pencil. This mountain has a million sheep beds. I didn't see any sheep. They may have gone into town for a cold beer. This place is parched. The 4wd road could get closed. Posted 2014.
    • EMIGRANT BM SOUTH RIDGE - the long south ridge is a good way up then return along the west base. All bumps on the ridge are easily passed on the right. A topo app such as peakbagger is indispensable and GPS won't be needed.  I parked on the Spanish Trail highway at N35 54531, W116 00848 el 2700. I walked to the southern tip where an Indian trail crosses. It connects Pahrump to Tecopa. It was the last sign of humanity I would see except at the summit. I went up then along the right side of peak 1201 to  55322, 01619 where I could walk a sheep trail into the saddle. Then up to 55520, 01892 where I leveled off around peak 1285. Then on to a tiny saddle next to peak 1487 at 56033, 02459. Next, I used a sheep trail next to peak 1668 at 56599, 03104 then at 56894, 03306 there is a trail running low on the left. 800 feet beyond there is the last big bump. I went over the right shoulder and on to the reg at 57644, 03563 el 5874. I retraced back a mile and a half and dropped west at 56460, 03098 el 5350. At el 5000 there are two ridges to choose from. Sheep use the left one. I followed their trail on down to a saddle el 4600 on the divide and stayed on it left of center until I could see and easy down to the main wash. I went down that then at two air miles from the start I moved far left into a major wash. That's easy but it might be even easier to use the west bank of that wash. It all goes downhill back to the start . 7 hours with 3200 gain plus whatever the little bumps add but I didn't calculate that. It never gets very steep. This is one of the better winter hikes around Pahrump. Posted 2021.
    • NOPAH FALLS is what I call the series of dry falls that drains the south side of Nopah Peak. It drops over 1000 feet in a third mile. It's an easy hike to the base but rocky enough to use thick sole shoes. Take highway 178 to mp 48.4 then go .6 mile on a graded road to where it bends right. Stay straight on easy 4wd for about a mile to a fork in a clearing reading N36 00410, W116 10510, a fifth mile past a tank. Each fork goes to a T at the wildnerness boundary. The right fork is the one to use if climbing the peak. The left fork is better for the falls hike. Take it to the T then go right for .7 mile and park. Mtn bikes could make it. Walk the flats to 00710, 07789 then keep going to the gorge between the two high peaks. A viewpoint inside the gorge  at 00773, 05834 provides a good view of the lower falls. It takes 90 minutes to get there. I went on and bypassed the first fall on the right to get to the base of the high fall, but there's nothing special there. These roads turn to mud after storms. Land owners could block the roads. Posted 2017.
    • NOON BENCHMARK el 4200 is the high peak of the South Nopah Wilderness. The south ridge looks to be the easiest route. Use the graded Furnace Creek Rd on the south side of the peak. To avoid private land, turn off at N35 48984, W116 06746 then go half a mile on easy 4wd to a washout. Bypass on the right then go another third mile to a fork. Bikes make it that far. Go left on bumpy little rocks for half a mile to a wash then hike up a ridge at 49996, 06339. At 50440, 05394 level off to the left into a canyon to get at the main saddle on the south ridge. Go up the ridge to 50840, 05316 then go left on a sheep route to the west ridge for the last bit. Nearly 3 hours, 1500 gain. Posted 2023.
    • EMIGRANT CANYON is what I call the one draining north to the highway just west of Emigrant Pass. It's the most enjoyable canyon in the range. A one way hike to the end then down to the west is a good one. I parked at the 620 meter line on the highway reading N35 53073, W116 07101 then rode my Zizzo 3 miles up the highway to the canyon. I strolled up to the saddle at the end then up the ridge to the saddle north of peak 1119. I went left a bit on a sheep route to 51374, 04682 and could see a gully below that might work. I went down it and hit a drop but moved left to a 10 foot class 3 drop. I scooted down on my butt and left cairns. A 15 foot line and hook would help. I hit bottom and could see there might be a route straight off peak 1119, and I'll try it next time. I walked on down a smooth wash and got on the left bank at 52271, 05833 then back to the right bank after a hill then left around the next hill and then good pavement down to the highway. 3 hours, 11 minutes and 200 feet noticeable gain. The bike ride was half an hour in lowest gear. Posted 2023.
    • OLD SPANISH PEAK el 3900+ is what hikers call the one north of Emigrant Pass on the Spanish Trail highway. Park at the pass next to a cable fence el 2900 and walk a closed road along the divide to a monument marking the Spanish Trail, but it's likely on an Indian trail. The real trail is the next track south. But go up the ridge from the monument to the reg and survey junk at N35 53871, W116 04082. 2 hours, 1000 gain, rocky. Posted 2021.
    • GUZZLER PEAK el 4937 is what I call the one two miles south of Emigrant BM. I made a loop on the main ridges. Park on the Spanish Trail highway and walk 2 miles to a main wash at N35 54986, W116 02895 el 3150. Go up and stay left in it then exit up the right side at 55014, 03306 el 3250 to get on the ridge. Go up to el 4150 then take an easy angle right of center for a tenth mile to 55489, 03774 el 4250 and level off for another tenth mile to merge back with the ridgetop. The ridge drops a little to a saddle then walk to the right and drop a little more with a guzzler in view below. It's obvious how to go on up to the reg at 55979, 03631. Then just follow the SE ridge down which is also the rim of the deep canyon to the east. Walk it down to the flats and out. The Indian trail out of Emigrant Pass crosses at 54255, 02190 el 2850. 5 hours, 2000 noticeable gain. Good pavement walking here. Posted 2021.
    • GUNSIGHT MINE is one of the better mine hikes around. Drive out of Tecopa on Spanish Trail Highway to the junction with the paved Furnace Creek Rd that goes to China Ranch, but don't turn on it. Keep going straight for 1.2 miles to BLM road #32. Follow that easy 4wd road as it bends left to the end in nearly 4 miles at old buildings with lots of nails. It's mostly ebikeable. Get on a trail behind a cabin at N35 50644, W116 07367 el 2350. It crosses a wash then goes up the left side of a canyon to a tunnel nearly a fifth mile from the start. The tunnel is cut into bedrock and looked safe. I splits with one passage still having rails. Next, the trail drops into the creekbed and ends and so just walk up the easy creekbed to high ground between forks at 50603, 06773 el 2750. Go up along the right fork to a saddle el 2900 then follow a good trail back toward the start. It runs high on the south slope of the canyon and passes a lot of mines and one had a hand cranked winch. The trail will come to a dangerous tailings slope, so it's better to climb up a few feet to a tunnel with rails then walk out on a trail from there. That took less than 2 hours, easy. Posted 2019.
    • RESTING SPRING INDIAN TRAIL - this trail runs south from the spring across the South Nopah Range Wilderness. It crosses countless gullies but is still an easy 2 hour hike one way.  Drive out of Tecopa on Spanish Trail Highway to the junction with the paved Furnace Creek Rd that goes to China Ranch. Turn right and go 4 miles to a gravel pit on the right and leave a car there. Then go back to the junction and drive the Spanish Trail Highway past Resting Spring Ranch for half a mile to a DIPS sign. Park 350 feet west of it and walk to the rim of a major wash at N35 52202, W116 08974. Walk the rim for nearly a fifth mile then drop left into the major wash. Follow the creekbed and exit to a foundation where the trail can be seen at 51488, 09383. It goes down to the left and across washes to 51339, 09464 to 51195, 09456 to 50653, 09455 to 50551, 09419 to 50122, 09281 to 50000, 09203 to 49777, 09106 to 49630, 09037 then it goes to a point and bends right and crosses RR tracks at 49149, 08876 then starts fading. The last quarter mile of trail to the gravel pit is gone. Posted 2019
    • Nopah Peak and Nopah BM
    The pit in 2022

    Sunday, December 17, 2017

    Trilobite Wilderness, Bristol Mtns

    The Castle and peak 1023 to the left.

    Castle Mine

    Iron Hat Peak

    Bristol Mtns Indian trail heading toward Amboy Crater. By this time they had walked a dozen dry miles from the Granite Mtns and still had 30 or 40 miles to Joshua Tree.

    Mine equipment lined with bricks in the Bristol Mtns.
    Amboy has the only gas in the area. It was more than $2 higher than gas near Joshua Tree in 2017. I put a lot of GPS tracks on peakbagger in 2023.
    • CASTLE BENCHMARK el 3842 is the high point of the Marble Mountains. Go south from I-40 on Kelbaker Rd for 1 mile and go east on a gas road. In about 4 miles on this easy 4wd road, park and hike up the easy north ridge to the reg at N34 40686, W115 37038 . 2 hours,1100 gain. Short but dull. ONE WAY VERSION - descending down the SW canyon turns this into a top notch hike. It's the best canyon for 100 mile radius. Walk NW down the main ridge to the lowest saddle next to point 1022 meters. Trails drop down the west end of the saddle. I used the one that goes down along the right side of the drainage and goes down a ridge to bright rock at the bottom. It stays on top of the rock all the way thru to darker ground and hits the creekbed. Soon there is a huge pothole and a small cave on the right bank. A trail goes by the cave then it's easy to stay high until a narrows, saving a quarter mile of boulder hopping. Next comes the interesting narrows with 3 or 4 easy class 3 drops, up to 8 feet high. There is one more tricky drop at a right bend at the 730 meter line. The low right bank shortcuts all that then bend right at the mouth and cut thru a gap at 39763, 39134 then to a road at the wilderness boundary reading 39800, 39929. An ebike there can be used to shuttle back. That took 3 and a half hours. I had no shuttle except for the highway part but had a pleasant 75 minute stroll in washes along the gas road to retrieve my cycle. It would only be a 5 hour hike to do it all from the highway and only needing a shuttle on the highway. Posted 2023.
    • CASTLE BENCHMARK SOUTH LOOP - the colorful south canyons can be used to make the best hike on this page. Take Kelbaker Rd south from I-40 for 4.2 miles to road #122 at N34 39545, W115 40540 el 2050. Drive or pedal the crude road for 2/3 mile to the legal end el 2100 then walk the low ground to a canyon at 39843, 38099 el 2250. A pointy peak gets in the way a half mile before the canyon, so stay left around it. Go east up the canyon for .13 mile to 3 forks. Stay far right and go on up to the main saddle el 2350 then on to another saddle at 39786, 37511 el 2500. A good sheep trail starts there and goes to the next canyon where sheep were staring at me. Maybe they expect to be paid for using the trail. Go up canyon and get on the left bank at 39840, 37138 el 2400 then stay on it thru the main saddle el 2650 then shortly to a trail at 40004, 36931 el 2650. Walk that into the main south canyon el 2600 and go up that and get on high ground between forks at 40409, 36601 el 2850. Then just stroll up to the SE ridge of the peak at 40570, 36647 el 3000 and head up. At el 3650 it becomes practical to angle to the right and hit the NE ridge at el 3750 then it's an easy fifth mile to the BM, but no reg that I could find. The descent into the canyon to the west is obvious. Walk NW down the main ridge to the lowest saddle next to point 1022 meters. Trails drop down the west end of the saddle. I used the one that goes down along the right side of the drainage and goes down a ridge to bright rock at the bottom. It stays on top of the rock all the way thru to darker ground and hits the creekbed. Soon there is a huge pothole and a small cave on the right bank. A trail goes by the cave then it's easy to stay high until a narrows, saving a quarter mile of boulder hopping. Next comes the interesting narrows with 3 or 4 easy class 3 drops, up to 8 feet high. There is one more tricky drop at a right bend at the 730 meter line. The low right bank shortcuts all that. Then it's a smooth wash and warp factor 8 down to the pointy peak and then retrace from there. That took 5 hours with only about 1000 feet of strenuous gain. SHORT VERSION - I made a shorter loop by skipping the peak and cutting thru a saddle to the south. When I got to the south canyon, I went up to a left fork and got on the right bank at 40312, 36658 el 2750. I walked up that fork and soon I could easily merge into the creekbed. I went on up using the right bank intermittently and thru the main saddle then on a trail to another saddle at 40537, 37263 el 3200. I went down the creekbed there and came to the end of bright rock where it turns tedious. To avoid that, I went over a bright saddle on the right rim to a scree gully at 40664, 37336 el 3100 and walked down that canyon to the main canyon where I merged with the route above. That loop took 4 hours with a lot less gain. It's the best way to tour these bright rock canyons. Posted 2021.  A shorter hike starts at the same TH. Walk to the end of road #122 to a cave in the bright rock. A sheep trail goes up around the right side. I just followed the unsteepest route up until I hit dark ground and then went left on a trail to the next canyon and followed it back. Major potholes are on the way back at 40648, 39108 el 2350. That took 2 hours, easy hike. Posted 2018.
    • THE CASTLE is a bright colored formation east of the Castle Mine. It's the most interesting area in the range. Take the Kelbaker Rd to 4wd road #138 at N34 34437, W115 38640. Follow that to a tricky fork at 37536, 36821 then go left a fifth mile to another fork and go right. The road fizzles just over 5 miles in at a cabin at the Castle Mine. I went up the obvious canyon to the Castle and used a steep gully to get on top. A sheep trail runs to the north end then goes along the ridge. On the east side of the ridge at 39078, 35503 el 2900 is where peak 1023 (meters) comes into view. Sheep trails go up to the summit el 3356. I retraced from the summit back to the Castle and dropped to a bulldozer track el 2650.that took me down to the flats. That took me 3 and a half hours with 1300 gain. It takes an hour to drive a 4wd in there. The road is tedious with rocks and deep sand but has no major obstacles. I tried going out to the west but soon gave up. Posted 2017.
    • PEAK 1023 NORTH LOOP - a better hike than the one above is to come in from the gas road to the north. I went 4 and a half miles in on that from the Kelbaker Rd and parked at some dirt piles about a fifth mile east of the closed road running south from 846T. I walked south and merged with the road and just followed the low ground over saddles to get in the canyon that drains down to the Castle Mine. Over the first saddle is a trail on the right bank where the creekbed starts getting rough. The trail bends around to a faint road that goes over the next saddle into the canyon that goes to the mine. I turned up a fork at 39227, 36044 that has an old road. It fades but I picked up a trail at 39079, 35504 that leads to a drainage with bright bedrock. A sheep trail goes up along the right bank and bends into a fork that leads to the main ridge, just left of bright cliffs. The ridge goes but an old coot route is less steep. It's a sheep trail running right of center to 39078, 35503 el 2900 where peak 1023 (meters) comes into view. A trail runs along a cliff base then up to the main ridge. The last bit to the summit goes parabolic but can be zigzagged. Then I went down the north ridge to the saddle before peak 1001 and levelled off on a trail right of center. I left ducks along that and walked it to 39484, 35444 and stayed level on it then soon it drops a little to the saddle. I went thru and down to the left for smoother ground then thru the saddle at point 859T reading 40206, 35160. Then I went down to the flats in easy washes and walked 2 miles back to the start. An ebike stashed there would have saved me some walking. That took 5 hours, 20 minutes and the only gain of any consequence is the 1000 up from the canyon floor to the summit. Posted 2023.
    • IRON HAT PEAK el 2589 (789 meters) is what I call the peak NE of the Iron Hat Mine. It's the most dramatic one in the range. Take Route 66 to N34 33707, W115 33677 and turn on road #325. Go 2 and a half miles on easy 4wd and park el 1200 where the road is washed out. Keep walking up the main canyon past the mine and just before peak 643 go up a little ridge at some white rock reading 36831, 32709. In a tenth mile more there is an obvious gully on the right that goes up to the high rim. Then walk a trail that goes along the west side of pointy peak 783. It fades at a saddle but resumes higher at 36530, 32396 and goes into the north saddle el 2350. Then a trail goes up left of center and circles to the summit. 400 feet before the summit a sheep trail goes right of center and around behind the summit then it's easy to walk up to the summit cairn at 36378, 32523. Then retrace to the saddle el 2350 and drop west down the canyon back to the start. 3 or 4 hours with 800 noticeable gain, rarely steep. CAP DOME PEAK el 2986 is over a mile to the NW of Iron Hat Peak. It can be included for a longer loop. From the summit of Iron Hat, a mine track can be seen going up to the east saddle of it. Just retrace back to the main canyon and walk the track to the saddle. From there, a rough sheep route starts up the ridge left of center to avoid big rocks. The reg, placed by G McCleod in 1982, is at 37088, 33453 and mostly signed by sheep counters. That peak name must be in it. I can't remember. Then drop NW down to the major saddle el 2450 and then left into the canyon and go bank to bank to get back. On the flats there is pavement at 36119, 33665 el 1350 for the last bit. That loop took me 5 hours with about 2000 noticeable gain and not very steep but plenty rocky. I'm only doing Iron Hat from now on because it's not so rocky. Another option for the long loop is to go up the fork south of peak 607 to get to the north saddle then up to Iron Hat. Then go on to Cap Dome as above on the sheep trail west of peak 783 and drop down to the main canyon at 36857, 32550. I put a track on peakbagger to make this clearer. Posted 2017, 2023.
    • PEAK 3182 is right next to peak 963 meters. A grand loop can be done using a mine road that cuts thru the range up canyon from the Iron Hat Mine. Take Route 66 to N34 33707, W115 33677 and turn on road #325. Go 2 and a half miles on easy 4wd and park el 1200 where the road is washed out. Keep walking up the main canyon past the mine and look for the road on the left bank at 36896, 32854. It goes over a saddle and down the east side of the range and fades. I walked on to the main wash on the north side of peak 646 but it's not as smooth as it looks on the sat image. It's bound to work better to walk the wash south of the peak then cut thru a saddle north of VFBO on the topo. Then go up on the south bank of a drainage which is on the south side of peak 811. Keep going up to peak 963 then it's easy to walk the base of that to get at peak 3182. No sign of humanity there. I walked sheep trails running south along the crest then started dropping on one at 37656, 34466 el 2850. Then on down to a trail at 37586, 34331 el 2650 that leads 300 feet to a saddle where the descent canyon is in view. I went down and to the left along a cliff base to get better terrain then down canyon. The right bank works for a while then I cut over to the left bank at 37371, 34252 and soon dropped to the lower bank. Just before a gorge I got on the left bank and bypassed the whole thing. The wash smooths out and on the flats there is pavement at 36119, 33665 el 1350 for the last bit.6 hours with about 1500 noticeable gain. Rocks are a minor nuisance. I'll do it again. Posted 2023.
    • MARBLE BENCHMARK el 2467 is at the south end. At Chambless, get on road #320 at N34 33712, W115 32991. Go north a half mile then turn right and go SE for 2/3 mile then turn left and go a mile to a main fork. Left goes to the trilobite sites, but stay right for a mile and a half to the end el 1200 in a canyon south of the peak. The canyon goes, but the east rim is smoother. Go up the canyon and exit at 35382, 30300 el 1350 then angle up under talus to a saddle el 1600 on the rim. Go on to a sheep trail at 35575, 30483 el 1700. It goes left of center to a saddle el 1750 then stays left and gets fuzzy. Sheep then go to 35508, 30767 el 1950 to skirt around the right side of a bump. Then just keep going up to the reg at 35657, 31058. The last fifth mile is class 2 rock. The survey pole was still standing and the BM is dated 1935. 3 hours, 1300 gain. All roads are easy 4wd. Posted 2017.  PEAK 588 METERS is another easy peak nearby. From the parking area, walk up the main wash to a spotty sheep trail on the left bank at 35302, 29987 el 1300. Follow it up as it bends to the right to a saddle el 1450 then keep going up the rim to the survey junk at 35016, 29471 el 1929. Then just drop back in the canyon and walk it back. Nice canyon. 2 hours, 700 gain.  Posted 2018   
        • MARBLE BM CIRCUMNAVIGATION - it's a long but easy loop around the BM. I walked thru the easy canyon south of the peak into Cut Wash then north and back thru the canyon with the Iron Hat Mine. Go east from Chambless for a mile to road #327 at point 248T on the topo. Follow easy 4wd to a fork at point 268T. Parking beyond there would mean a lot of rocks at the end of the hike. I followed the right fork into the south canyon and up a sheep trail at N34 35307, W115 29984 to get around the south side of peak 484 and into Cut Wash. I stayed near the left bank and got on it at 36688, 30893. It's rocky but easy to weave or step over. I went on to 37072, 31117 then to the wash west of point 586 reading 37553, 32028. I went up that to the saddle south of peak 643. I dropped down a sheep trail left of a gully then onto the right bank that leads down a skinny point to the main wash then down that past the mine. At the mouth, I went left on a road that is now a wash and stayed on the high road to 35877, 32943 then cut over to another road at a point. That road goes to 286T and then I left the road at 34498, 31764 for the last third mile.  Ebikes work on these roads. That took 4 hours, 45 minutes and 11.4 miles with hardly any noticeable gain. Posted 2023.                     
    •  MOUNT BOECKERMAN el 506 meters is at the southern tip of the Marble Mtns. The Cadiz Rd is paved from Chambless to the RR tracks near Cadiz. There at point 253 is an easy 4wd road that goes to the canyon west of peak 442. Ebikes can make it. I walked the road that goes into the canyon west of peak 421. It ends then I went up right a little to a trail that goes to the saddle then I moved left a little into a bedrock gully and on up to the summit. I then walked down the easy north canyon and came to a trail that goes down to a fork. Right might go back to the start but I stayed on the left fork on down north of peak 424 to the flats and circled along the west side back to the start. 2 and a half hours and 600 noticeable gain. Posted 2025
    • BRISTOL MOUNTAINS INDIAN TRAIL - a trail cuts thru the range near Amboy. It's an easy hike with an easy 11 or 12 mile shuttle. Drive to Amboy and get on a road on the west side of the gas station. It's a good road for half a mile along a dike then another half mile to a gas road. Leave a vehicle there then drive east on Route 66 for 6 miles to Kelbaker Rd. Go north 4.8 miles then go left on a dirt road for .6 mile then walk to the trail near peak 602 at N34 37308, W115 41808.  Go on to 36926, 41964 el 1900 where the trail goes over a hump into the main creekbed. It goes .14 mile up the creekbed then exits up the right bank and on thru a main saddle then down the creekbed to 36659, 42442 el 1850 where it exits up the right bank. It drops back to the creekbed at 36407, 42749 el 1600 then exits on the right bank again at 35679, 43325 el 1250. It fades in another mile then just get on pavement at 35020, 44169 and on down to a curious mine in a quarter mile then out. The hiking part took me nearly 3 hours with hardly any noticeable gain covering about 6 miles. Poor people with only 2wd might have an extra mile or two. If you want a tougher hike, walk from the Mojave Preserve to Joshua Tree like the Indians did and try to figure out where they got water along the way, if they got water. Posted 2018, 2024.    
    • ORANGE BLOSSOM PEAKS el 973 meters is what I call two colorful peaks just west of the Orange Blossom Mine in the Bristol Mountains. I made a loop which turned out to be one of the best hikes around Amboy. Go south 1.3 miles on Kelbaker Rd from I-40 and turn west on a good, firm gas road. Go nearly 11 miles to a wash at N34 40482, W115 50334 el 2050. I weaved a cycle a half mile up the wash and it wouldn't help to go any further on this loop. I walked on up the wash to a canyon at 40775, 49684 el 2250 then on to a main fork at 41034, 48923 el 2600. I took the right fork and it took me along the south side of the south peak. I stayed low in the creekbed to the end at a low saddle where the north peak was in view. That peak was too easy to pass up so I went up the south ridge to the summit at 41644, 48456 el 3250. Four sheep were grazing on the ridge. For the return, I went down the canyon between the peaks. At falls, I got on the left rim then dropped back in at 41470, 48575 el 2750. The next fall I went around the right side and down a drainage. It was easy creekbed from there on out to the flats then half a mile back to the start. 3 hours and the only strenuous part was 200 feet or so up the peak, and that could be skipped. ORANGE BENCHMARK el 3450+ would be a half mile detour on this hike. To do it as a separate hike, drive only 4 miles in from Kelbaker Rd and turn on road #990. Go nearly 3 miles to a gate at the Orange Blossom Mine then go left on a jeep road for a third mile to a wash. The wash goes along the south side of the BM. I rode a half mile up the wash then walked on up to get on the easy SW ridge. The reg is at 41126, 47835. Placed in 1983, only Vitz came along later. I didn't try the road to the Lady Lu Mine. Posted 2018.
    • LAVA HILLS HIGH POINT el 2300+ is NW of Amboy in a pristine area. Go south 1.3 miles on Kelbaker Rd from I-40 and turn west on a good, firm gas road. Go nearly 13 miles to a sign for Siberia Rd branching north. Turn south there on a faint road and drive half a mile on the high ground then walk the flats to a saddle at N34 40037, W115 52715 el 2050. Go thru then down the left side of a wash on a faint trail and on to 39435, 53368 el 2000. Drop down a wash there then on to a main wash and go right up that one a short way then climb out and walk to the base of the peak. The reg is at 39058, 53505 next to a small dig. For a loop back, walk NW into a main wash then take a right fork at 39293, 53957 el 1950 and go up and over the divide el 2100 then down the wash to a mega wash at 39554, 54490 el 1900. Go north up that to a main fork at 39931, 54251 el 1950. Go left and in .45 air mile there is a 6 foot fall that is tricky for a solo hiker to climb, but the right rim would work to get around it, just get on it ahead of time. The wash is easy again after that then ends. Aim for high ground at 40488, 53752 el 2200 then it's an easy stroll back to the start. 3 and a half hours and the only strenuous part is the 300 feet up the peak. Numerous minor gullies have to be crossed on the way to the peak, but the return leg has none. The Siberia Rd goes 4 and a half miles thru colorful country to a cell tower over I-40. BLM rd #1 runs along the east side of the Lava Hills but has deep sand and a lot of minor dips.Posted 2018. 
    • SIBERIA WASH has a pretty section along the east side of Black Ridge BM. The 4wd gas road along the north side of the peak is the simplest way at it. I made an easy loop around the peak. It took 4 hours, 20 minutes. Another idea would be to go over the peak then down the south ridge and back in the wash. Posted 2024.   
    • BRISTOL MOUNTAINS WILDERNESS is bordered on the south by I-40. A gate in the south side fence is the best access. Go east from Ludlow for a dozen miles to the gate at N34 43342, W115 57770. It can be seen on the sat image where county road 20410 comes up from Klondike. Go thru the gate then east on the frontage road for a third mile and park. A bike trailer with camping gear was stashed there. Walk under the freeway and pick a route. I was doing the high point el 3622, so I walked to the west canyon at 44292, 57421 el 2450 and walked the bank to a mine. I should have dropped to the wash there and entered a nice little gorge, but stayed high and dropped in later into the gorge. It ends at an easy little fall, but a catclaw needs to be cut out of the way. I kept going in that easy canyon until a 50+ foot fall got in the way. Sheep go up along the right of it. Then they go up a ridge at 45458, 56882 which leads to the summit with a huge cairn on it. A reg is on top of the cairn. I backed off the summit a little then down a slope to the NE that I could see all the way down to the east canyon. I strolled that to the mouth where a road leads back to the start. That took 4 hours with 700 noticeable gain. The west canyon is the main attraction. I'll be back for that and skip the peak. Road 20410 to Klondike is only good for the first mile to the gas road. The gas road is maintained but steep hills need 4wd. It makes for easy access to Black Ridge. Posted 2021.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                
      The nest is the lowest dark patch on the left side. I couldn't tell what species of bird they are, but they get a whopping good cell signal!

      Sheep hanging around on the Orange Blossom Peaks

      Orange Blossom Peaks
        
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    Friday, December 8, 2017

    Tecopa & Amargosa Canyon Indian Trails

    Approaching Ibex Spring

    A second trail departing Resting Spring.

    The trail on the way to the pass then on to Resting Spring.





    • Slot canyon that attracts all the tourists around China Ranch

      Weird spires in the east canyon of Dolores BM

      The Indian trail on the SE ridge of Dolores BM. This is where it drops off the rim to the river.

      A view of the RR grade and the washouts

      Colors in Dolores Canyon
      Map at the China Ranch TH

      Indian trail heading from Dolores BM toward China Ranch

      The Amargosa Canyon trail on the RR grade

      Strange formations in the east canyon from Dolores BM
      The Sperry trail has outstanding views.
    • The only spiral I've ever seen.
    • Any hikers interested in a guided tour of these trails can find me on Facebook as Nevada Bob. Tecopa has RV campgrounds and a tiny store. The poor peoples' RV park is along the graded Furnace Creek Rd on the south side of the Dublin Hills. I picked up a good VZ cell signal there. I check that road before taking an RV in. Shoshone is the nearest gas. Ibex Pass has a VZ signal.
    • RESTING SPRING LOOP - Indian trails can be used to make a loop around the spring with a 2 mile paved shuttle. It's a complex route strictly for Indians and other advanced hikers. Drive east from Tecopa and leave a bike or car near the exit point at N35 51976, W116 10044. Then keep going east 2 more miles and park along the highway. Walk the flats for a mile to N35 53612, W116 08481 el 1850 and drop into a wide wash. Then walk thru a minor saddle into another wash and exit at 54007, 08793 el 1850 then on to the trail at 54837, 09822 el 1950. It goes up a gully then turns left to the pass el 2100. It goes down along the right slope and soon has slid away, but stay on that trajectory. Don't go down. It soon becomes obvious at 55238, 10230 as it skirts gullies then finally drops to the flats. Get off the trail at 55468, 10498 el 1900 and walk down a smooth ridge to the flats and on to high ground at 54829, 11056 el 1600. Go on to a rim at 54445, 11216. Walk a quarter mile down that then drop left to the flats and on to a saddle at 53818, 11344. Go thru to a major wash then up that to a saddle at 53617, 11096. Now there's a trail. Walk it up a ridge then on to high ground at 53153, 10731. Now walk south for 450 feet to a wash and turn left up that and on to a saddle at  53037, 10608. Then go SE for a third mile to a major wash at 52811, 10403. The trail goes east up the wash for a quarter mile and exits up the right bank. Stay on it nearly a fifth mile then bend right to power lines. Follow those thru a gap between big hills then veer left to 52210, 10049 and walk thru a gap in mesquite and on to the exit point. That took me 4 hours, 20 minutes with easy grades. The BLM map shows this all to be on public land. At 53163, 08280 is where I crossed cairns marking an Indian trail coming from the east to the spring. Then at 54280, 09178 I crossed one heading north to Pahrump. Posted 2018.
    • RESTING SPRING TO PAHRUMP - 4 miles of that trail is still walkable around Emigrant Pass. Park a vehicle 3 and a half miles east of the pass where a big ridge meets the road. Then ebike back to the pass where there is parking spot with a cable fence. The trail is in view at the far side of the pass. The high ground can be walked to it, but I prefer to go another third mile on the highway to a yellow 40 MPH sign. The trail can be picked up there on the far side of a wash. Go over the pass on it and cross a wash at N35 53499, W116 03212 then skirt close to a point to 53856, 02786 then 54089, 02455 then 54303, 02119 and last is 54493, 01617 before it skirts the big ridge. 2 hours, easy. Gullies have to be crossed but nothing serious. Posted 2022.
    • SPERRY HILLS TRAIL - this one goes from Tecopa to Ibex Spring. Walking from Ibex Pass to Tecopa is a good hike of about 9 or 10 miles. Leave a car near the river bridge next to the Tecopa post office then drive to the pass. Get on the trail at N35 47628, W116 20040 el 2100. Follow it along the divide to 47627, 19190 el 2400 then to 47645, 19006 el 2400 then to where it tops out at 47700, 1819 el 2500 next to the high peak on the divide. I call that Sperry Peak el 2600+ and the reg on it says it's the high point of the Sperry Hills, but a case could be made that Tecopa Peak is in the Sperry Hills. It's worth a short side trip for the view anyway. The trail goes on along the divide for a third mile and gets faint. It drops down to the right and crosses a drainage then gets easy to follow again at 47870, 17650 el 2500 where it runs along the north side of the divide. The trail drops off the divide into a valley at 47865, 16786 el 2200 and disappears. Go on down the wash and exit up a gully on the left at 47995, 16028 el 2000. Walk a short way up that until it opens up then bend right to pavement. Walk near the right edge of the pavement into a wash where trail fragments begin to appear on the right side. Be on the trail at 48353, 15469 el 1900 and walk that level. The trail fades in and out with good views. Aim for 49083, 14211 el 1750 where it goes down a narrow ridge and ends at a point above the river with rock circles. There's no good way down, so veer left before that and go down a ridge at 49904, 13811 el 1550 into the wash. Go downstream a few feet then turn left up Tecopa Wash. Go NW half a mile up that then exit to the right on a trail. Then go to a modern trail at 50504, 13943 el 1400 that was built to get around private land and brush along the river. It goes into a wash then take a shortcut by leaving it and go straight up the other side of the wash then down the next gully to the river. A road there goes shortly to the river bridge. That took me 5 hours with minimal gain. An airplane damaged part of this route. Miscreants like that prevent me from publishing a lot of goodies. ALTERNATE ROUTE - a shorter but not quite as good route goes from the divide to Tecopa. Leave the divide  trail and drop into a drainage at 47958, 17090 el 23000 that leads to a major wash. Go left up that to a saddle el 2250 on the right. A trail doesn't go thru the saddle but it's an easy route to go on thru and down the wash to a trail on the left bank at 49151, 16182 el 1900. It goes on to 49409, 15594 el 1800 then 49692, 15238 el 1750 on the far right edge of pavement. The next mile and a quarter is easy to follow then it crosses a mine road then it's a short walk to join the route above at the modern trail. 3 hours, 40 minutes.  Posted 2017. 
    • IBEX PASS / SPRING TRAIL - this leg of the trail is an easy 5 miles but needs a 4wd shuttle. Drive south from the pass for a couple miles and turn at a microwave tower. Go nearly 3 miles down a wash to a fork. Go right for a third mile to a sharp dip and that was washed out in Dec 2023. It's the hardest obstacle on the road and there was another trench not far beyond. I might leave a 4wd there then drive back to the pass. Walk west from the pass on the high ground for a mile to the rim where 3 or 4 routes go down. For the shortest, walk to N35 47707, W116 21504 el 2150 where the descent ridge forks. Walk down the left ridge to the trail at the bottom reading 47546, 21876 el 1800. It soon goes into a wash then 200 feet down that and exits on the right. Go on to 47329, 22253 then cross a mine road then to 47087, 22988 then 47043, 23065. Next, you come to a mine road but this time walk on it for 200 feet then the trails forks left. Go on to 46797, 23615 then 46705, 23751 then 46672, 23822. Soon the palms at the spring come into view. It's 5 miles from the pass to the spring. That's the shortest hike possible. If you parked one 4wd at the sharp dip, then it's 2 miles of road walking making it a 7 mile hike but still easy with hardly any gain. Posted 2017. NO SHUTTLE VERSION - I made a loop from the Ibex road. I went in a mile and a half from the park boundary then walked the flats north and stumbled on a rock ring at 46501, 21945 on the low ground. Don't let that get disturbed. Cairns and rock lines are on the bank to the north.  I went on to high ground at 47176, 22024 and followed that for a  third mile to the trail where it hits the flats from the pass. I walked it to the spring and only needed GPS twice due to all the cairns now. I walked the road back. 3 and a half hours, 8 miles. I didn't spend any time at the spring. This is a more convenient way to see the best part of the trail.  Posted 2023.
    • DOLORES BENCHMARK INDIAN TRAIL - the trail thru Ibex Pass has one branch that goes right by the BM in the Kingston Range Wilderness and on to China Ranch. But for one stretch it's better to drop off and walk washes south of the trail. A 10 mile one way hike is a good way to do it. Drive east from Tecopa and follow signs to China Ranch. Leave a car at the new BLM TH. It has a restroom. Then drive 15 miles to Ibex Pass.  Get on the trail at N35 47628, W116 20040 el 2100. Follow it along the divide to 47627, 19190 el 2400 then to 47645, 19006 el 2400 then to where it tops out at 47700, 1819 el 2500 next to the high peak on the divide. I call that Sperry Peak el 2600+ and the reg on it says it's the high point of the Sperry Hills, but a case could be made that Tecopa Peak is in the Sperry Hills. It's worth a short side trip for the view anyway. The trail goes on along the divide for a third mile and gets faint. It drops down to the right and crosses a drainage then gets easy to follow again at 47870, 17650 el 2500 where it runs along the north side of the divide.  Drop off the trail and down a ridge at  47924, 17412 el 2400 and walk a major wash to a saddle at 47289, 16178 el 1950. Go thru to another saddle at 47025, 15285 el 1950 then thru to a faint trail at 47278, 14872 el 1850. Go up toward the BM and the trail gets more visible. The BM is at 47158, 14462 el 2105. Did I find a reg way, way out there? I'm not telling. There are several ways to get to the canyon running east toward the ranch. I followed a trail south from the BM and dropped in at 47095, 14269 el 1900 but maybe should have walked the rim down. It's a rocky canyon but gets smoother with some weird rock formations. It cuts thru spectacular badlands to a short slot at 47267, 12711 el 1250. Just past that is another with a fall, but it's easy to pass on the right. Then tracks from hundreds of tourists show up in the wash. It's a short way to cross the river on stones then turn right on a trail. It will soon fork. Both go but the high one looks shorter. It's less than a mile on to the TH at the ranch. That took me 5 hours with not much gain. Posted 2018.
    • SARATOGA SPRING TRAIL - this one branches off the Ibex Spring trail near Sperry Hill and goes to Saratoga Spring but a lot is missing now. I made a good one way hike by starting at Ibex Pass and walking the trail to Sperry Hill (as shown on peakbagger) then down the canyon to the west of it and to the trail and on to the highway at mp 39.2. I went ahead and climbed the peak but that can be skipped and just walk down the canyon west of it using the left bank. I got on the right bank at N35 47379, W116 18270 and then down and around a corner to the trail at 47188, 18399. It runs level to a major wash then I went down that and got on the right bank at 46780, 18416. In another fifth mile the trail appears on the bank and I went on to 46168, 19094 then 46138, 19159 and then the last leg to the highway at 46091, 19236. 2 hours, 46 minutes, 5 miles. The app had the gain at 733 but 150 of that is the peak side trip and that can be skipped. I put a track on peakbagger under Sperry Hill.  Mp 39.2 has camp spots with good Verizon. WESTERN LEG - the next day I started from camp at mp 39.2 and got on the trail at 45963, 19487 and on to 45881, 19640 then it fades for a mile and reappears at 45205, 20596 and goes a fifth mile to the saddle north of Ibex BM. It soon fades on the other side and so I went down a rocky gully to the main wash then down to a sandy slope where I took an easy angle to the saddle NE of peak 472 reading 44923, 21971. I went down the other side on sand for a fifth mile then went over the right rim to a good flower display. I went on down to the flats then to a rock ring at  46501, 21945. Cairns and rock lines are on the bank north of it. I kept going to high ground at  47176, 22024 then in a third mile the Ibex Spring trail crosses. It goes into a main wash then up a ridge and on to the pass where I parked my cycle the day before. 4 hours, 500 feet of noticeable gain, 8 miles.  I didn't have to fool with a shuttle by doing the two hikes on consecutive days. Posted 2023.
    • SOUTHERN SARATOGA SPRING TRAIL - this one starts the same as above and over Sperry Hill then runs more south of the trail above. I started at Ibex Pass and took the trail to Sperry Hill then down the east ridge into the main east canyon. I could have skirted the peak on the trail and dropped into the canyon. I went down canyon to a trail on a ridge running left of center at N35 45893, W116 17140. It goes to a wash then fades then I went on to a short segment at 45546, 17970 then another at 45513, 18238 and finally on to a camp area on the highway near mp 38. 3 and a half hours, about 800 gain. Posted 2024.
    • IBEX PASS TO SARATOGA SPRING TRAIL - this one starts at the pass and goes to the spring then south to the Saratoga trail and back to the highway. I was camped on the highway at mp 39.2 and I rode my cycle to the pass then walked the trail to the spring then turned south on the main road to a faint old road at N35 46034, W116 24437. I walked that south for nearly a mile to a flower hotspot then went left to a major canyon at 44351, 22440. No sign of the trail until the head of the canyon where it is on the left bank at 45070, 20808.  It goes across the divide then bends left and fades. I walked with the flow and then on to 45809, 19772 where it appears again and goes shortly to camp. 5 and a half hours, 12 miles, easy grades. Good flowers in April, 2024.
    • DOLORES BENCHMARK LOOP - a loop can be done from China Ranch by going up the east canyon then back down an Indian trail on the SE ridge.  Drive east from Tecopa and follow signs to China Ranch and park at the new BLM TH. It has a restroom. Follow the map posted at the TH to get to the slot canyon. It can be seen on the topo a half mile west of Acme. It is blocked by minor falls, but easy to bypass on the left. Soon there is another short slot then keep going up the main canyon for about an air mile to a main fork at weird spires. Take the left fork for a few feet then climb up the right rim at N35 47242, W116 13697 el 1550. Keep going up for .57 air mile to an obvious Indian trail el 1950. Go right on that to the BM at 47158, 14462 el 2105. Then retrace back to where you hit the  trail and keep going on it to a saddle. It climbs out of that to the left then on to 46845, 13807 el 1900 then 46719, 13492 el 1950. Next is a rock ring that the Indians must have built then the trail fades. Start down a canyon at 46600, 12949 el 1800 that goes back to the slots. To see how the Indians got down to the river, step over to the rim at 46576, 12793 el 1700. That's the hard way down with a wall of tamarisk at the bottom. It's easier to walk the rim a fifth mile to a major saddle then drop left back to the canyon and stroll on down to the slots. That took me 5 hours with about 500 noticeable gain. That's the best hike you're going to find around the ranch and tourists turn back at the slot canyon. Posted 2018.
    • DOLORES CANYON is what I call the colorful canyon draining SW from Dolores BM. It gets rocky but it's easy to step between rocks. A loop can be done going up canyon then back on the Indian trail on the SW ridge of the BM. Drive in on the Dumont Dunes road and follow signs up the river on a sandy road to Sperry Wash. The river flows there but has little brush. Walk up to Dolores Canyon at N35 45242, W116 13327 el 900 and go up that to a fork at 46106, 14058 el 1250. Go left then stay right at main forks and top out on the Indian trail at 46955, 14013 el 1800. The BM is NW  at 47158, 14462 el 2105 but I skipped it. I went SE on the trail to  46845, 13807 el 1900  then 46719, 13492 el 1950.  The trail drops off the rim at 46576, 12793 el 1700 but a tricky knife edge is just before that. It's safer to drop left down a drainage to get at the trail. It goes 350 feet into a gully and seems to end. I went down the gully then stepped onto the right rim at 46556, 12665 el 1500. That goes down steep and trail segments can be seen. At the bottom the trail is obvious running high on the bank of the river down to where the RR grade crosses. Dirt bikers made it that far up from Sperry Wash but I couldn't even see a way for hikers to get thru the brush to go up river. They fought nasty washouts on the RR grade for nothing trying to ride to Tecopa. That loop took me 4 and a half hours with maybe 200 noticeable gain. This hike is almost entirely in the Kingston Range Wildeness. Posted 2018.
    • AMARGOSA RIVER CANYON TRAIL - a maintained trail runs along the river. A one way hike can be done from  China Ranch to Tecopa. Take the road behind the Tecopa post office and then stay left around barn ruins and on to the TH at N35 50491, W116 13446. Leave a car  there then drive east from Tecopa and follow signs to China Ranch and park at the new BLM TH. It has a restroom. Follow the map posted at the TH to get to the turnoff for the slot canyon, but stay on the trail along the river to get to Tecopa. It's a 5 or 6 mile hike that's so easy a dead man could do it. A side trip to the slot would add less than an hour. Bikes aren't allowed on the trail. But to use one for a shuttle, I would walk this the reverse way from Tecopa to the ranch then up the road to where it tops out on the divide and the pavement starts. Then coast back on a bike stashed there or use an ebike to ride the whole way. It's easier to hike it in this direction and there's an Indian trail shortcut at 49217, 13010 that cuts across a gooseneck. MIDDLE ENTRY - a canyon can be used to get to the trail between the two Trailheads. There is a Pavement Ends sign where the road to China Ranch tops out. From the sign, walk perpendicular away from the road down a wash or walk the left bank of it. It will lead to the trail then go left or right depending where your other vehicle is.  Posted 2018.